Pricing help on kitchen refit

[kev.k]

Hi all!

I have posted on here before for advice on pricing and received some really great advice so wanted to see if I am still in the ball park of fair pricing. I still work for a company but on shifts so have been doing more and more work on my days off. Still unsure whether to just work out a day rate for myself or whether it depends on the job itself how to price. I'm based in the North West.

I have been asked to quote for a new kitchen, the house recently had an EICR and the kitchen ring was fine so they don't want a new circuit just the existing altering.

6 new points for appliances
2 cooker circuits approx 10 metres from CU (hob and double oven) as no cooker circuits currently in
10 spotlights on 2 seperate switches running from existing feeds but new switch wires in new location
Pendant light on seperate switch
Light in conservatory on adjoining wall (no light currently in)
All chrome accessories (10 sockets in total, 2 switches, 10 spots)

If i've missed anything let me know.

Thanks

 

[LukeD]

I still think that working 10 plus hours a day makes trades look a bit "Desperate " .You have lives and families .Also my pet hate it customers thinking I will be working sundays for the same rate and doing any noisy work. They have neighbours and the law is right about trades working over the weekends .Ive had a neighbour who thought it was great to have 5 lads turn up at 7.30am on sundays for weeks doing demolition etc .He just said he wanted the job done and he didnt care. But immigration and the employment office /building control people showed a interest and it went very quiet

 

[pc1966]

I wouldn't buy anything like that on ebay it's full of snides

eBay is my place of last resort for stuff I can't get other ways, and nobody's life depends upon it!

I have one of these proving units, works well and a bit under £100:

4299 Proving Unit

Intelligent voltage ramp testing for voltage indicators and multimeters

www.cef.co.uk

 

[pc1966]

LOL, as always checked CEF stock and not there for Dundee, Perth, Arbroath. Typical!

 

[nicebutdim]

LOL, as always checked CEF stock and not there for Dundee, Perth, Arbroath. Typical!

It's over £50 before VAT, so they'll deliver at no additional cost.

 

[pc1966]

I still think that working 10 plus hours a day makes trades look a bit "Desperate " .You have lives and families .

Doing over 7 hours only makes sense if its an 8 hour job to complete in one go. Beyond that you should be planning two or more normal days.

 

[pc1966]

It's over £50 before VAT, so they'll deliver at no additional cost.

Thanks, had not realised that.

But still if I am ordering it for delivery there are cheaper options, and what is the point of their stores?!

 

[nicebutdim]

Thanks, had not realised that.

But still if I am ordering it for delivery there are cheaper options, and what is the point of their stores?!

It's not often that I'd order from them online, but has been convenient on a couple of occasions for products that were difficult to obtain.

In honesty I'd probably look at ebay for a cheap proving unit - while the site might be filled with junk, there's little to no chance of that Socket & See proving unit being counterfeit.

 

[timhoward]

I don’t buy just anything off eBay, but with careful consideration there are bargains to be had. That one even had an in date calibration sticker on it. While it’s a safety critical device if it doesn’t work it’s quite obvious and leads to the safe assumption the two pole tester has failed.
Of course the other point is that a lot of the time there’s a more convenient live source to prove with to hand, and it will sit in the bag for weeks at a time.

 

[kev.k]

Thanks for the advice everyone, much appreciated. I think maybe best to price at 3 days like a few have said.

Current board is a dual RCD Wylex so no need to change anything there just add a couple of breakers for the cooker circuits. The hob and double oven are on opposite sides of the kitchen, which is why i've priced for two seperate circuits. The sockets etc for the kitchen are going from the existing circuit so no Part P required just minor works cert, it's only the 2 cooker circuits that will need Part P.

I'll stick with my materials price but add an extra day labour.

Thanks again all!

 

[kev.k]

The only extra which I found out today is the water stop tap has been moved by the plumber, who removed the bonding and has left cut off (the homeowners are still living in the property). Have told the builder I will need to run a new 10mm bonding from the CU to which he said just crimp the existing one to make it reach ?

 

[pc1966]

The only extra which I found out today is the water stop tap has been moved by the plumber, who removed the bonding and has left cut off (the homeowners are still living in the property). Have told the builder I will need to run a new 10mm bonding from the CU to which he said just crimp the existing one to make it reach ?

Not a good approach to change it without doing the cable there & then, unless of course the external pipe is now plastic.

A proper crimp is OK, can be tidied with some heat-shrink sleeving if needed, but I shudder to think that your typical plumber would do.

 

[kev.k]

Not a good approach to change it without doing the cable there & then, unless of course the external pipe is now plastic.

A proper crimp is OK, can be tidied with some heat-shrink sleeving if needed, but I shudder to think that your typical plumber would do.

Is is not against regs though? The same as if gas and water was on the same bond you have to just take off the insulation at the first point and not break the cable in case it comes loose?

 

[Taylortwocities]

With kitchens: only give a fixed price when you have a complete and confirmed kitchen plan with full details of all appliances.
If anything changes from that point (and it will) it is EXTRA!!

 

[loz2754]

Is is not against regs though? The same as if gas and water was on the same bond you have to just take off the insulation at the first point and not break the cable in case it comes loose?

No.
And it's a myth that a single cable used to bond both gas and water services needs to be continuous and not broken.

 

[pc1966]

Is is not against regs though? The same as if gas and water was on the same bond you have to just take off the insulation at the first point and not break the cable in case it comes loose?

There is nothing in the regs that say you must have a continuous length. But the example on GN3 (I think) shows what you suggest as good practice to avoid one fault causing multiple trouble.

I would say (don't think it is explicit in the regs though?) that any joint must be reliable / maintenance-free. You would get that from a solder joint, a proper crimp, or using an approved type of joint & enclosure.

 

[pc1966]

Just looked, it is GN8 on page 64 (Figure 5.5 an unbroken protective bonding conductor).

But I would argue that a permanent joint is "unbroken".

 

[DefyG]

And if labelled correctly per 514.13.1 it should never become a problem ........ just a shame some take no notice of it!

 

[freddo]

Here's one way of looping a 25mm2 bonding conductor from gas pipe to water pipe - the wrong way.

 

[Taylortwocities]

25mm? Really?

 

[suffolkspark]

Current board is a dual RCD Wylex so no need to change anything there just add a couple of breakers for the cooker circuits.

Bear in mind that the total of the MCBs hanging off each RCD should no longer exceed it's rating (unless main fuse is <or= to them) also you'll need to notify your 2 new cooker circuits and fill EIC.