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Problems with phone sockets and wi fi.

Discuss Problems with phone sockets and wi fi. in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

hoover

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Hi. Pulling my hair out with this one. I'll try and keep it simple. Recently I've moved into a new house which has eleven telephone points dotted around in different rooms. They are wired from the master via two radial circuits, one serving each side of the house. The wiring appears to be a mix of ordinary telephone cable and cat 5 cable. All seems punched and connected correctly. That's the background to the installation. My problem started when we tried to get broadband. It was very slow so after disconnecting all the internal wiring and trying again this didn't improve. So problem externally there then. But what broadband I could get was knocked off unless I disconnected my cordless phone. Why is this? The wifi does not agree with the cordless phone. Another problem- the last two telephone points on one of the extensions don't work when I plug the phone in. Now I've tested the cable and belled out each core and disconnected and reconnected the terms but no difference. This one really has me going. Also my phone gives a two tone almost like a police siren on the dialling tone- maybe because it's not getting enough power externally? I know this all sounds confusing but maybe someone will understand.
 
Depends on the type of master socket you have. If you don't have a master socket that splits the incoming line between phone and adsl then EVERY connected phone will need to be connected via a line filter.
 
Yeah mate I know about the filter. I have an ordinary corded phone and a cordless phone with a filter on both. Corded phone works fine with wifi. Cordless phone knocks it off. My master socket is one of those from bt which has two parts. When you take the front off this disengages the internally wired phones.
 
Yeah mate I know about the filter. I have an ordinary corded phone and a cordless phone with a filter on both. Corded phone works fine with wifi. Cordless phone knocks it off. My master socket is one of those from bt which has two parts. When you take the front off this disengages the internally wired phones.
That includes any other phone line connected non adsl device, ie SKY box, don't shoot me ... just checking :)
 
Mmm not sure mate. Her indoors set it up. I take it if it was set up for one channel your maybe thinking that this is clashing with the frequency of the cordless phone? Where as if it was hopping it would maybe find a free channel?
 
Mmm not sure mate. Her indoors set it up. I take it if it was set up for one channel your maybe thinking that this is clashing with the frequency of the cordless phone? Where as if it was hopping it would maybe find a free channel?
Yes, and it's not just the cordless phone that may be interfeing as well. Any other devices on 2.4Ghz may also cause a problem (including wireless doorbells, TV RF senders and the neighbouring wireless equipment).

You can normally check in the config pannel for the wireless settings on the router. It should be set to auto and not a specific channel.
 
Is there a possibilty, given that some of it is in cat5, that a twisted pair hasn't been used and it's disparate cores. Failing that maybe be a poor idc connection, enough to get continuity (typically <2Ohms or so) but too high resistance for a signal.
 
Is there a possibilty, given that some of it is in cat5, that a twisted pair hasn't been used and it's disparate cores. Failing that maybe be a poor idc connection, enough to get continuity (typically <2Ohms or so) but too high resistance for a signal.
Thinking about it, in this case you don't have an adsl signal to worry about; so not using pairs wouldn't matter too much, it's just a telephone extension to all intents and purposes.
 
yeah I've just got sky tv in but no telephone connection to it yet. It is their package, tv phone and broadband. I'm limited to which supplier I can have as I live in the country so no cable.

How many phones do you have connected - make sure you dont exceed the REN number which used to be 4 for domestic - not too sure now! Also re your sky, are you sure it isnt connected to a phone socket, they always stipulate it has to be for updates etc
 
Hi, I had a similar issue in my new house, whereby the broadband speed was useless. I am with BT and it appeared the loss of signal was due to one of the extension having a signal leak albeit the cable and points in the house were
brand new.

If you are with BT, call them and insist bon an open reach engineer attending your property and ask them to replace the master socket with one of their
open reach phone points. What will this achieve, well it will stop the ADSL
signal / phone lines being split between the extensions and removes the need for ADSL Filters on each extension that has a phone etc logged into it.

I had this done and it resolved my broadband and the speed returned to what it was. One downside is that you have to have your wireless router plugged
in at the master socket, but it's worth it.

Just a side note, if you have BT Infinity Broadband, I understand you can only
have a single main phone connected and that other phones connected via sockets extensions may not work, but this can be remedied by buying a set of phones where the extensions are satellite phones where the base unit is just plugged into the power.

Hope it helps

Stuart
 
If you can remove the bottom half of your master socket and plug your broadband into the socket via the micro filter and test from there, if you are still getting a poor connection, disconnect the main plate and make sure nothing else is connected to the A & B of the master socket.
The two tone siren is probably that you have a answer phone message, 1571 to access (i think)
 
firstly i would take the master socket off and do the test from the bottom of there, if everything works then it's a problem with your internal wiring. is there a need for 11 slave sockets?
and has it been established if there is an ADSL splitting facplate on the master socket yet? if not, get one they're miles better than those 2pence cheapo separate boxes, and if you need 11 of them chances are 1 will be faulty which will slow your ADSL down.
and to get into the router settings type in http://192.168.0.1
 
firstly i would take the master socket off and do the test from the bottom of there, if everything works then it's a problem with your internal wiring. is there a need for 11 slave sockets?
and has it been established if there is an ADSL splitting facplate on the master socket yet? if not, get one they're miles better than those 2pence cheapo separate boxes, and if you need 11 of them chances are 1 will be faulty which will slow your ADSL down.
and to get into the router settings type in http://192.168.0.1
@ExArmy Is that the default IP address for a sky router? :)
 
@ExArmy Is that the default IP address for a sky router? :)
In case that doesn't work here are a few others to try: 192.168.0.254, 192.168.1.1, 192.168.1.254, 10.0.0.1, 10.0.0.254.

Can be customised to most addresses (but none ending in .255). If you're on windows it may be able to discover the router config address in windows explorer (right click and select show device page if it finds something that looks like it may be your router -- later copies of windows only ie vista/7).
 
How many phones do you have connected - make sure you dont exceed the REN number which used to be 4 for domestic - not too sure now! Also re your sky, are you sure it isnt connected to a phone socket, they always stipulate it has to be for updates etc
No mate. Deffo no sky connected to the phones. This is because sky installed the tv a week before the phone which was ten days before the broadband.
 
Hi Hoover
You have several problems here, the first is that you can't use a wireless phone and a wireless broadband system in the same house (others will disagree) the 2.4gHz signal is very sensitive in that it will stay connected wireless wise, but all data throughput will cease. are you using a laptop or a pc? if it's a laptop, connect it direct to your router with a patch lead and try your net speed using Speedtest.net - The Global Broadband Speed Test. (I am assuming that you have the wireless router connected through a microfilter into the master socket) when you have done this try to connect wirelessly to the router and compare the speed. If you get good speed through the patch lead and poor speed through the wireless it is the router at fault, or there is interference. Here is a list of things that I know from personal experience will interfere with a wireless internet connection.
wireless:
phones, alarms, baby alarms, cameras, remote controls for tv's, gates etc video and tv wireless systems, microwave ovens (yes they use 2.4 gHz magnetron!)
2.4gHz wireless signals travel in straight lines and will not go through brick walls, they will go through wood if it is dry, but with losses. they will go through plasterboard, but not if it is foil backed, they will go through K glass, but will lose about 30% signal strength. The signal will bounce round corners( actually it scatters rather than reflects, with large losses) but by and large the straight line rule is absolute. the problems occur also when your neighbours use any of this equipment, especially any neighbours across the road from you! In short, after many years of experience I now advise people NOT to use wireless systems inside as they are unreliable and slow. the manufacturers will not tell you this of course, and if you are using a laptop or Pc in the same room as the router you will probably have few problems apart from interference. The problem of slow speed stems from the fact that every time you connect to a wireless router the first thing the router does is test the connection, if it gets error free transmit and recieve, it will operate at full speed, if there are errors it will default down to the next slowest speed and try again, and it will keep doing this till it gets an error free connection, or runs out of slower speeds! The "bar chart" you see in your wireless connection properties is the wireless signal strength, it is only a very rough indicator of the actual data throughput that the connection will deliver. A recent BBC news article stated that "wireless connections can run up to 30% slower than wired" Not only could I have told them this years ago (but no one would listen) In my experience 30% is conservative.
You will be able to log into your router by putting the local ip address in to your browser address bar, this will be something like 192.168.1.1 (could end .0.1 or .2.1) it should tell you this in the router manual, unless you know the pasword for the router you will need the default password , again from the manual but try admin for the username/ password
As for youe phones, disconnect everything then go round the house and check each phone point seperately with a known good phone. If all the phone points seem ok, look on the bottom of your phones, and you should see a "REN number" this is the ring equivalence number, and is usually in the form REN 1 or REN 0.5 etc add up all the ren numbers of your phones and see what you get, if the REN comes to more than 4 you will have problems, if it is more than 5 some or all phones will not work. In short, the REN of your entire phone system must be less than 5. Incidentally, you MUST use a microfilter on every phone.
Hope this helps
phil.hermeticATlangtoft.net
 

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