Problems with phone sockets and wi fi.

[topquark]

Err, I thought we'd established that the master socket was already split phone/adsl

 

[topquark]

Err, I thought we'd established that the master socket was already split phone/adsl

Or not, I read post #3 ... being in two parts as adsl/phone split, then filters are mentioned so who knows

 

[Rappid]

If you can remove the bottom half of your master socket and plug your broadband into the socket via the micro filter and test from there, if you are still getting a poor connection, disconnect the main plate and make sure nothing else is connected to the A & B of the master socket.
The two tone siren is probably that you have a answer phone message, 1571 to access (i think)

 

[ExArmy]

firstly i would take the master socket off and do the test from the bottom of there, if everything works then it's a problem with your internal wiring. is there a need for 11 slave sockets?
and has it been established if there is an ADSL splitting facplate on the master socket yet? if not, get one they're miles better than those 2pence cheapo separate boxes, and if you need 11 of them chances are 1 will be faulty which will slow your ADSL down.
and to get into the router settings type in http://192.168.0.1

 

[topquark]

firstly i would take the master socket off and do the test from the bottom of there, if everything works then it's a problem with your internal wiring. is there a need for 11 slave sockets?
and has it been established if there is an ADSL splitting facplate on the master socket yet? if not, get one they're miles better than those 2pence cheapo separate boxes, and if you need 11 of them chances are 1 will be faulty which will slow your ADSL down.
and to get into the router settings type in http://192.168.0.1

@ExArmy Is that the default IP address for a sky router?

 

[ExArmy]

thats for any router as far as i know

 

[topquark]

@ExArmy Is that the default IP address for a sky router?

In case that doesn't work here are a few others to try: 192.168.0.254, 192.168.1.1, 192.168.1.254, 10.0.0.1, 10.0.0.254.

Can be customised to most addresses (but none ending in .255). If you're on windows it may be able to discover the router config address in windows explorer (right click and select show device page if it finds something that looks like it may be your router -- later copies of windows only ie vista/7).

 

[topquark]

thats for any router as far as i know

Most can be changed and are often different.....just looked up the sky one and that looks like the default for the netgear supplied ones. Cheers!

 

[hoover]

How many phones do you have connected - make sure you dont exceed the REN number which used to be 4 for domestic - not too sure now! Also re your sky, are you sure it isnt connected to a phone socket, they always stipulate it has to be for updates etc

No mate. Deffo no sky connected to the phones. This is because sky installed the tv a week before the phone which was ten days before the broadband.

 

[hermetic]

Hi Hoover
You have several problems here, the first is that you can't use a wireless phone and a wireless broadband system in the same house (others will disagree) the 2.4gHz signal is very sensitive in that it will stay connected wireless wise, but all data throughput will cease. are you using a laptop or a pc? if it's a laptop, connect it direct to your router with a patch lead and try your net speed using Speedtest.net - The Global Broadband Speed Test. (I am assuming that you have the wireless router connected through a microfilter into the master socket) when you have done this try to connect wirelessly to the router and compare the speed. If you get good speed through the patch lead and poor speed through the wireless it is the router at fault, or there is interference. Here is a list of things that I know from personal experience will interfere with a wireless internet connection.
wireless:
phones, alarms, baby alarms, cameras, remote controls for tv's, gates etc video and tv wireless systems, microwave ovens (yes they use 2.4 gHz magnetron!)
2.4gHz wireless signals travel in straight lines and will not go through brick walls, they will go through wood if it is dry, but with losses. they will go through plasterboard, but not if it is foil backed, they will go through K glass, but will lose about 30% signal strength. The signal will bounce round corners( actually it scatters rather than reflects, with large losses) but by and large the straight line rule is absolute. the problems occur also when your neighbours use any of this equipment, especially any neighbours across the road from you! In short, after many years of experience I now advise people NOT to use wireless systems inside as they are unreliable and slow. the manufacturers will not tell you this of course, and if you are using a laptop or Pc in the same room as the router you will probably have few problems apart from interference. The problem of slow speed stems from the fact that every time you connect to a wireless router the first thing the router does is test the connection, if it gets error free transmit and recieve, it will operate at full speed, if there are errors it will default down to the next slowest speed and try again, and it will keep doing this till it gets an error free connection, or runs out of slower speeds! The "bar chart" you see in your wireless connection properties is the wireless signal strength, it is only a very rough indicator of the actual data throughput that the connection will deliver. A recent BBC news article stated that "wireless connections can run up to 30% slower than wired" Not only could I have told them this years ago (but no one would listen) In my experience 30% is conservative.
You will be able to log into your router by putting the local ip address in to your browser address bar, this will be something like 192.168.1.1 (could end .0.1 or .2.1) it should tell you this in the router manual, unless you know the pasword for the router you will need the default password , again from the manual but try admin for the username/ password
As for youe phones, disconnect everything then go round the house and check each phone point seperately with a known good phone. If all the phone points seem ok, look on the bottom of your phones, and you should see a "REN number" this is the ring equivalence number, and is usually in the form REN 1 or REN 0.5 etc add up all the ren numbers of your phones and see what you get, if the REN comes to more than 4 you will have problems, if it is more than 5 some or all phones will not work. In short, the REN of your entire phone system must be less than 5. Incidentally, you MUST use a microfilter on every phone.
Hope this helps
phil.hermeticATlangtoft.net