OP
j2d
I used a 64mm holesaw Toolstation > Power Tool Accessories > Holesaws > Bi Metal Holesaw
I already had the arbour to fit it to. The 64mm cutter will cut the hole slightly undersize. I then used a rotary file in a cordless drill to ease the hole out until the threads of the flange just passed through. The hole is then opened out further at the 3 and 9 oclock positions until the flange can be just pushed through and into the tank. Go steady because if the hole ends up being a slack fit it won't seal. The flange is pulled back so the threaded boss sticks out through the hole and then rotated 90deg so the wider part of the flange sits behind the wider part of the hole and the gasket and included locknut is fitted outside and tightened. The curvature of the tank will be flattened out locally as you tighten the flange.
The flanged part that fits inside the tank is circular with two sides cut off so its more of an oblong shape in plan view.
Its difficult to explain but once you see the flange it will become obvious.
Brilliant! I have a 64mm hole cutter (a common size for cutting downlights out) Just about to order the flange now. Thanks for the advice on having a big enough spanner, going to order a stillson 13.5" with a 70mm jaw, will that be big enough?
When you did this can you remember roughly how far apart the internal coils were spaced apart?
I think i'm going to have to remove the immersion heater so I can look into the tank to give me an idea this gap between the coils.
I can obviously see where the pipes enter the top and bottom of the internal coil, so have a rough idea, but am very worried about drilling the pilot right in line with one.
John
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