Using Jbox to extend cooker cable

Billwah · Feb 4, 2015

Hi there all.
im fitting my own kitchen and intend moving the single oven to a tall unit on an adjacent wall. The ceiling is currently down to enable running lighting cable for dos lighters and removing the awful after. I can see where the 6mm comes into the kitchen and down to the existing cooker position. I can pull this back through and at the same time re-route the ring main rule socket from the other wall to utilise the vacated back box. Thing is, there's about a meter short to get to the new position. So I have the following questions:
1/. Can I position the 45A isolating switch above the wall cupboards (but not directly above the tall cupboard)?
2/. Could I fit a Jbox in the ceiling void and extend the 6mm enough so that the isolating switch is in the usual position, above the worktop to the side of the tall cupboard?
3/. There's also gonna be an integrated microwave oven. Can both be wired into the same cooker outlet plate behind the tall unit or do they need one each?
4/. If they can be wire in the same outlet, how are they fused down to 16A and 10A respectively?
5/. Finally, as no new circuits are being used, just moved, is any of this definitely notifiable ?
Many thanks in anticipation of helpful replies.
bill

TJ Anderson · Feb 4, 2015

1/. Can I position the 45A isolating switch above the wall cupboards (but not directly above the tall cupboard)? Why not fit Junction Box and fix to top of wall unit so it remains accessible.
2/. Could I fit a Jbox in the ceiling void and extend the 6mm enough so that the isolating switch is in the usual position, above the worktop to the side of the tall cupboard? Put isolator as you say but junction as answer 1.
3/. There's also gonna be an integrated microwave oven. Can both be wired into the same cooker outlet plate behind the tall unit or do they need one each? This will most likely require 13A fuse so provide a socket outlet for this from ring circuit, or better still a dedicated radial (if new circuit this would be notifiable). Check that is does not require 16A supply.
4/. If they can be wire in the same outlet, how are they fused down to 16A and 10A respectively? As the oven is a fixed load it does not require fusing for overload so just connect to cooker outlet. Supply microwave as answer 4.
5/. Finally, as no new circuits are being used, just moved, is any of this definitely notifiable ?
Many thanks in anticipation of helpful replies. Kitchen work is no longer notifiable. New circuits are though

Pete999 · Feb 5, 2015

Billwah said:
Hi there all.
im fitting my own kitchen and intend moving the single oven to a tall unit on an adjacent wall. The ceiling is currently down to enable running lighting cable for dos lighters and removing the awful after. I can see where the 6mm comes into the kitchen and down to the existing cooker position. I can pull this back through and at the same time re-route the ring main rule socket from the other wall to utilise the vacated back box. Thing is, there's about a meter short to get to the new position. So I have the following questions:
1/. Can I position the 45A isolating switch above the wall cupboards (but not directly above the tall cupboard)?
2/. Could I fit a Jbox in the ceiling void and extend the 6mm enough so that the isolating switch is in the usual position, above the worktop to the side of the tall cupboard?
3/. There's also gonna be an integrated microwave oven. Can both be wired into the same cooker outlet plate behind the tall unit or do they need one each?
4/. If they can be wire in the same outlet, how are they fused down to 16A and 10A respectively?
5/. Finally, as no new circuits are being used, just moved, is any of this definitely notifiable ?
Many thanks in anticipation of helpful replies.
bill

Hi Bill, you are obviously a skilled Aircraft electrician, but aircraft electrics differ greatly from domestic, I wouldn't have a clue where to start wiring an airplane, so here's the rub, there are too many rules and dangers to overcome in this sort of work, my honest advice would be hire an Electrician to do this work for you, not saying anything about your skills, but would you be happy with an electrician from our background hacking away at aircraft electrics? don't think so, you would be better of getting someone in, good luck

Billwah · Feb 5, 2015

Thanks for the reply Pete. You are right about the differences between domestic and aeronautical, aircraft have sooo many regs it's untrue. But with all the floors upstairs being laminate which was fitted before the skirting went on, lifting floors to run a new cable will take weeks and require 3 or 4 rooms to be emptied and stripped. This would be prohibitively expensive and a deal breaker.
i can do the work, and have done stuff before after being given pointers by an electrician. But just need to know what is acceptable and which kit to use.
For example, I could you a fixed JB with wago terminals inside and secure that to one of the exposed joists that would give me the extra meter I need which I would then chase and cap into the wall.
I just need a helpful pointer here and there.

Billwah · Feb 5, 2015

@TJ Anderson. Thanks for the detailed reply. I have just checked and the microwave is indeed peak power 3000W. it says it shouldn't be connected to a 13a ring in the instruction too. By my reckoning, 3000/230v=13.04A. So if I'm stuck with wiring it to an outlet plate, can I put both sets of wires in the same one (oven and m/wave), or should I run 2 6mm runs from the isolator swith to individuals outlet plates?
also, one last thing, the JB you suggest putting over the tall cupboard… to keep the clean line of the kitchen, is there any reason I couldn't fit it to the wall at a height above the ovens, but within the height of the cupboard, then route out the back of the unit so it's accessible? Would really be a more aesthetic option. Oh, and is the JB I mentioned suitable?
many thanks again.

telectrix · Feb 5, 2015

you can get wagos for 6mm. think they're rated 40A. put in a suitable enclosure. alternatively, you could use butt crimps and heat shrink sleeving to join the cable.