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Discuss Wera Rubbish Quality in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

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I was looking to treat myself to a new VDE screw driver set. I saw another thread on this forum put Wera at 30% of market. So I treated myself to the 16 Piece Kraftform Kompakt VDE Interchangeable Driver Set. I loved it.
But then I started to use it, I don't do much electrical work, so I save my best tools foir electrics. In the last 18 months I have fitted maybe only 20 light pendants. I used the single pole tester (Electricians screwdriver) for these fittings. I broke 4.
I've fitted 6 no. Wylex consumer units and broke 2 no. PZ/S #1.
To be fair they replaced under warranty until now.
But now they are saying the electricians screwdriver is not meant for driving screws, just testing for voltage. My previous electricians screw driver was handed down by my father 30 years ago and still going strong.

The PZ/S #1, they said it's not their fault, its wrong kind of screws.........
It's a perfect fit for earth and neutral bars, but at the required torque of 1.7Nm it's just not up to the job.

Has anyone else had any issues with this set or is it just me?
 
Never liked the interchangeable version but find the separates good quality. I usually throw the "tester" in the bin as they are weak (so no good as a screwdriver) And as a tester there's a controversial argument that they are dangerous. I would not trust my life to one.
 
I bought a set of two with the no.2 and no.1 slotted/posidrive combination for mcb's and earth bars but on the first use the No.1 snapped - the number 2 is still ok but I felt that the end was too brittle to be used for what it should be ideal for. I got the Wera set from Maplins but didn't bother with return. Mmmmh - live and learn or leave the terminals a little looser!
 
I would also view the neon driver as something more fitted for an appearance in a Christmas cracker.
I would use a PZ/SL2 usually for all terminals in a CU including N and E bars. What size do the CU manufacturer recommend ?
 
Just seemed like the no.1 fitted better in the earth bar but may have been that particular CU. Anyway, snap it did - never a nice sound and makes you grumpy for a while!
 
I bought a set of two with the no.2 and no.1 slotted/posidrive combination for mcb's and earth bars but on the first use the No.1 snapped - the number 2 is still ok but I felt that the end was too brittle to be used for what it should be ideal for. I got the Wera set from Maplins but didn't bother with return. Mmmmh - live and learn or leave the terminals a little looser!

I've had exactly the same problem with the Wiha & CK No 1 slotted/pozi. As you say, the format of the head seems to make them very brittle. Not sure any make is better than others?
 
Ditto with the Christmas cracker sentiment - i never understood why a company would make such rubbish for a cracker - can't get my head around all the work they put into it for it not to be good for anything but swapping for the heat sensitive fish! Love that thing!
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wera-WER006148-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Piece-x/dp/B000297U52

I have always found Wera to be good quality. I use the
Kraftform
Vde Screwdrivers linked above and have only ever broken the smallest terminal driver they do. Have had them for 4 years now.

I have had CK screwdrivers and broken the small terminal drivers in no time.


Note: The death screwdriver that comes with the set gets thrown away into the plumber's toolbox ;)
 
I would also view the neon driver as something more fitted for an appearance in a Christmas cracker.

These things are an embarrassment (surely) to a tool manufacturer, but I think you've come up with the answer !!! It may need a warning about sharp edges thou.
 
I have just looked up Hager manufacturer's data sheets, and a PZ2 is asked for all terminations including RCDs, isolators, RCBOs, and neutral and earth bars.

Having said that, I would not really expect a PZ/SL1 to snap under normal use in a neutral or earth bar. I know I have used them in recessed RCBO terminals from time to time.
 
Thought it was just me being heavy handed i have brocken two pz/sl1 but was using them when i should of been using a 2 , saying that i do like the set as i always have the correct screwdriver to hand and the star head ones are realy usfull as they also fit hex heads .
 
saying that i do like the set as i always have the correct screwdriver to hand and the star head ones are realy usfull as they also fit hex heads .
Possibly misuse of a screwdriver Flanders but carry on!
 
There really is nothing for a broken posi than a centre punch, flat heads get a chance of a repair.
 
I have just looked up Hager manufacturer's data sheets, and a PZ2 is asked for all terminations including RCDs, isolators, RCBOs, and neutral and earth bars.

Having said that, I would not really expect a PZ/SL1 to snap under normal use in a neutral or earth bar. I know I have used them in recessed RCBO terminals from time to time.
Quite agree. I can't think of any CU terminal that needs a PZ1. I have found Wera drivers (not interchangeable) just fine. The PZ2 gets changed occasionally when it wears out, but otherwise long lasting, and never snapped one.
 
I have always used wera screw drivers the only thing which I hate, when using the pz1&2 when the magnetics on tips go I now carried a magnet in the tool box for them.
I have brought over the years banco c k all rubbish .
 
Only ever used Snap-on,Gedore,Facom and Spiralux,for my own work...all i have ever done with those,is strip,shear and round...

I have broke many a driver in torsion,usually Pozi or Phillips,but have been bemused by the fact that many of the "alleged" top marques,Wera,Bahco,etc,seem to have a great variance in quality,for the same item.
You can purchase three identical drivers from the same manufacturer,at different times,and two will twist tips off in succession while the third lasts forever... cue;pep-talk in the heat treatment department :)
 
I think a lot of the plus/minus screwdrivers get broken because there's several different types of + - screw (PZ/SL, modulo or whatever they call them....).

In + - screws you get philips 1&2, you also get pozi 1&2 and I've also seen Supadriv screws in a couple of items as well. If you use a PH/SL driver in a PZ/SL screw or vice versa it will likely shear the driver tip.
 
Basically a mixture of user error and manufacturer inconsistancies - verdict
- you can't win but you can be more careful
- when you buy a screwdriver buy 5 from the same batch
- work in Tescos
 
I only use Wera screwdrivers, interchangeable set, Torx set, and the 7 piece Pozi/ flat head set.( also joker spanners and 1/4" drive sockets, and bitcheck set). The only one to break was the PZ1, but I put that down to the eejit using it, trying to unscrew a seized PH1 screw. Wrong tool in both respects.
 
never had any probs with wiha or irazolas. i find my AEG 18V imact driver excellent for doing up CU terminals and the bits are only 20p if i break one.
 

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