Where to purchase LED for Valor electric fire

[kkkkk]

Hi all

Can anyone advise me on where to purchase a replacement LED bulb for a Valor 820 Seattle electric fire, please?

It is a tiny bulb on what looks like a card, which I presume has a printed circuit underneath.

Thanks for your help!!!!

 

[kkkkk]

What !! Does nobody know?!!
:13: :13: :13:

 

[telectrix]

could just be a common or garden 20p LED. a pic. would help.

 

[kkkkk]

Hi Telectrix

Thanks for the reply - I haven't done a lot with LEDs, any ideas how I would go about getting this tiny LED and how I would substitute it onto the card?



Here are two pictures of the board with the LED - in the first one, you can see where it is connected to the supply.

Thanks for help!!

 

[telectrix]

never seen anything like it. what does the LED do? isit just an indicator?

 

[Richard Burns]

Those do not look like they are intended to be replaced, they are a permanent fixture of the fire.
Your best bet would be to call Valor and ask if they can supply a replacement LED board as a whole.
You could possibly try something like this as a replacement, but you would be in a world of difficulty ensuring that the replacement was compatible with the existing power supply on both voltage and current.
Also the SMD led looks like it is heavily focused and so the light effect could be entirely different.

 

[kkkkk]

Thanks very much Telectrix and Richard Burns - no, I haven't seen anything quite like it before - the customer asked me to replace a bulb on his electric fire, and I certainly didn't expect this!! So I will get in touch with Valor, as you suggest - to my knowledge the fire still gives out heat, it just is not lit up, therefore the LED is for the display. THANKS AGAIN!!!

 

[Geordie Spark]

remember to old days when you just stuck a red painted 40 watt lamp in them??

Anyway .. onwards and upwards .. how old is this LED thing .. could it be a warranty job??

 

[kkkkk]

Yes, I thought I'd just be changing a fairly normal LED bulb!!! But it's an "out-of-warranty" job, I'm afraid!!!

 

[kkkkk]

Well, to update, I phoned Valor today, and they gave me the info - it is called an "LED Kit" and can be purchased from the Plumb Centre. BUT... (Shock, horror)... it costs £72 - plus postage!!!!! Unbelievable - cheaper to light a candle!!

:joker: :joker: :joker:

 

[Geordie Spark]

Well, to update, I phoned Valor today, and they gave me the info - it is called an "LED Kit" and can be purchased from the Plumb Centre. BUT... (Shock, horror)... it costs £72 - plus postage!!!!! Unbelievable - cheaper to light a candle!!

:joker: :joker: :joker:

Must be gold plated with platinum wires.

 

[Richard Burns]

£72 quid they are having a laugh.
Try and get some test information from the existing board or the specs from the "LED kit" and see if you can source a replacement module; a complete 230V unit should be only about £30, and a single module (assuming that is what has gone) should be couple of pounds. Or buy an LED light strip and use one LED!

 

[kkkkk]

Thanks Richard, but I wouldn't know where to start. I deal with mainstream electrics, and haven't ventured into this field as yet. If you are able to give me detailed instructions as to what to do, I would be very grateful. TH?ANKS!!

 

[Richard Burns]

In commercial terms it is probably not worth the time, just ask the customer if they want to pay £72.:svengo:

However I was thinking that you find out initially what light effect it was meant to give, I assume just a focused bright light upward to the flame effect. If it is a changing light then give up. Find out the light intensity expected and estimate the lumen output!
Measure the incoming voltage at the two cables to the left, if this is 230V then under the board is the control circuit, if it is a voltage in the 3-12V dc range then the control circuit is before this.

If the voltage is zero then the fault is before this point and may be easily repairable as a loose connection or such.
Having a voltage at this point may mean the control circuitry is shot rather than the chip (the chips are fairly robust in general) which, if the case, would mean you need a control circuit and chip.
If you have 230V incoming then remove the board and see if there is access to any of the circuitry or any specifications for the LED on the board underside, current, voltage etc. Thereafter with due respect for potential to short things out and get shocks, find out the supply voltage at the LED itself thereafter you are a bit stuck if you do not know the current.
But if you have voltage, current, lumens, light spread you could source a replacement chip (which you may have no realistic access to resolder) or replacement control unit.
The alternative to this is; if 230V incoming, get a driver and chip with similar characteristics and slap it in place and hope.

Still by the time you have done all this and sourced a replacement then it will probably cost the customer £72 anyway!

 

[kkkkk]

Thanks for your very helpful advice - in this case, I agree, it's probably not worth it!!! But it's good to know the possibilities. THANKS!!!!

 

[JohnPhilips67]

In commercial terms it is probably not worth the time, just ask the customer if they want to pay £72.:svengo:

However I was thinking that you find out initially what light effect it was meant to give, I assume just a focused bright light upward to the flame effect. If it is a changing light then give up. Find out the light intensity expected and estimate the lumen output!
Measure the incoming voltage at the two cables to the left, if this is 230V then under the board is the control circuit, if it is a voltage in the 3-12V dc range then the control circuit is before this.

If the voltage is zero then the fault is before this point and may be easily repairable as a loose connection or such.
Having a voltage at this point may mean the control circuitry is shot rather than the chip (the chips are fairly robust in general) which, if the case, would mean you need a control circuit and chip.
If you have 230V incoming then remove the board and see if there is access to any of the circuitry or any specifications for the LED on the board underside, current, voltage etc. Thereafter with due respect for potential to short things out and get shocks, find out the supply voltage at the LED itself thereafter you are a bit stuck if you do not know the current.
But if you have voltage, current, lumens, light spread you could source a replacement chip (which you may have no realistic access to resolder) or replacement control unit.
The alternative to this is; if 230V incoming, get a driver and chip with similar characteristics and slap it in place and hope.

Still by the time you have done all this and sourced a replacement then it will probably cost the customer £72 anyway!

This was great advice as I was having exactly the same problem. Cheers for that!

 

[dollyjoepearce]

My Valor Petrus fire recently lost its holographic display. On contacting Valor they identified the problem as the LED Driver and advised that a replacement could be obtained from UK Spares. I rang them and was quoted £76+£9 postage. On inspecting the driver I found that it was'nt gold plated but a cheap driver made in China - not even a UK unit. The rating was a 240v/12v/350ma/1-3w unit. Which allows the driver to run up to 3 1w LEDs. Sourced one on Ebay (also made in China) for £13+free postage which I fitted it in 10 mins and fire works fine. Not sure how these companies justify such exhorbitant costs.

 

[kris1985]

Hello,I always use DPS LED Lighting to purchase anything to do with LEDlights.

 

[telectrix]

but we don't want tiny red LEDs.