200 amp switch for RC speed controller?

[MuntyScruntfundle]

Hi there.

I'm working on an RC car which currently has a speed controller which has a peak of 200 amps. The power leads are meant to be connected directly to the batteries, there is no switch.

I need a switch.

However, just banging a 200 amp switch inside the car isn't going to work, too cumbersome, there just isn't room. So, how else can I add a switch? I'm not sure it's actually possible and I may have to replace the SC.

Any ideas?

Many thanks.

 

[SparkyChick]

Why do you need a switch? If the speed controller manufacturer doesn't require one, why do you need it?

I'm not being awkward, just trying to understand the use case.

 

[snowhead]

That'll be a very short peak of 200amps otherwise the battery will be dead in seconds.?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Indeed. You need to consider the RMS current integrated over the thermal time constant of a typical switch. One rated at 30A might handle peaks of 200A for a second within its thermal rating. However it might also weld shut, so the detail design is important.

More important might be its contact resistance, when dealing with high currents at just a few volts. Indeed, this might be more important than the current rating.

I echo SC, why do you need a switch? The less in circuit under these conditions the better. If you need to eliminate standby current of the controller, then yes it might be better to choose one where you can break into that low current supply rather than turning off the motor circuit too.

 

[marconi]

Perhaps use a connector rather than a switch? See:

Anderson SB50 (120A) Housing & Terminals For 16mm2 Cable - Red - https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/anderson-sb50-120a-double-pole-connector-and-terminals-for-16mm2-cable-red.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-tGDj-ff2gIV65XtCh3iZQYmEAQYBCABEgITavD_BwE

 

[MuntyScruntfundle]

The reason for wanting a switch is; at the moment I have to plug in 2x 4S Lipo batteries which give off a huge spark every time I do so, and due to the car design I have to shove both hands inside the car body (no easy access) and connect them out of sight. This is a 30lb car and I'm in a wheelchair.
This also begs the question, how would I turn it off quickly for safety reasons? Dig around inside the car again? What about turning it off quickly in the worst case scenario of blue vapour, or fire?
This is the single only ESC I have bought that doesn't have an on/off switch.
In all honesty I think I'm better off swapping it out and sending this back, I just don't understand the logic of the design.

 

[Deleted member 26818]

How about a battery isolator?

 

[Corbs]

The reason for wanting a switch is; at the moment I have to plug in 2x 4S Lipo batteries which give off a huge spark every time I do so, and due to the car design I have to shove both hands inside the car body (no easy access) and connect them out of sight. This is a 30lb car and I'm in a wheelchair.
This also begs the question, how would I turn it off quickly for safety reasons? Dig around inside the car again? What about turning it off quickly in the worst case scenario of blue vapour, or fire?
This is the single only ESC I have bought that doesn't have an on/off switch.
In all honesty I think I'm better off swapping it out and sending this back, I just don't understand the logic of the design.

anti spark connection you need

How to fit antispark to your ESC - https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/153065-how-to-fit-antispark-to-your-esc/

AJ's Baja Kraken TSK-B Flux - https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/221401-ajs-baja-kraken-tsk-b-flux/?page=1