Posting a message to the forum will remove the above advertisement
  1. angel While you're here, would you mind checking out our Electrician's Insurance section to see if we could save you a few quid? - Specifically our Van Insurance Deals and Public Liability Insurance Deals. Thanks for supporting the forum! angel

Discuss Ancient Fusebox, old CU & Cable Problem in the Electrical Forum area at ElectrciansForums.co.uk.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Please make sure you checkout our forum sponsors, many do discounts for members and, they keep the forum free to use.
  1. Smokey85
    Online

    Smokey85 Guest

    Hello AllI am looking for some advice, my girlfriends CU needs to be replaced and removed.She had two extra rooms fitted to the apartment (which converted an old hallway into part bathroom), and her electrics have been left in a sorry state. Currently choc-blocked to death, even on the CU.Its currently in a position which does not meet the 17th Edition, its about 20cm from a sink (seperated by a MDF panel), and 10cm from an immersion heater which only has one element, (the top is missing, and there's no sacrifical anode).Its a little like this:Meter Service Fuse E7 (Outside in meter box) > Very Old WireFuse Box (actually in bathroom with no dead-front) > 60A Cable with ChocBlock (cable comes out behind fusebox and into immersion heater cupboard, a chocbloc then attaches it to the cu ) > 16th Edition CU (10cm next to immersion heater in cupboard / 20cm away from Sink seperated by MDF panel) > ServicesI've bought a new CU 17th Edition Compliant (Wylex Dual RCD with 7MCBs and 1 RCBO).There should be no problem fitting it to the top of the cupboard corner, and I plan once supplies are isolated to literrally feed the cabling straight from the Meter to the new CU (to get rid off the old CU and Ancient deathtrap FuseBox). The problem is the service wiring, it simply is not long enough to reach the extra meter of the top corner of the cupboard.Is it a requirement to place all new wiring to the cooker, lighting, sockets etc... Or would it be possible to use service connector blocks or something else which can withstand the cable current(open to suggestions) for the 1m more cable I need.On compleation we then need a PartP Sparky to certify the installation, so we can rent the place out.Current Estimates for the work have been very varied £700, £750, £1200, £1750... So is it possible to extend cable or will it need re-wiring? The later sums of money are a bit to much, and the first two (not impressed with abilities - they are not options).Any thoughts?Many thanksSmokey
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 23, 2012
  2. Guest112
    Online

    Guest112 Guest

    ooof sounds like a can of worms you can extend cables done correctly are the cables dropping down from ceiling to the existing cu that is in the sink lol??
     
  3. 1shortcircuit
    Online

    1shortcircuit Guest

    I'm not quite sure what you're asking here?

    In one breath it sounds like you're thinking of doing the work yourself but in the other you mention you have had quotes to do the work.

    Could you clarify exactly what it is you're asking please :)

    Whoever you get to do the work will know what to do anyway so it isn't really any concern of yours other than the fact that they are competent and Part P registered or the Local Authority Building Control will be invited around before and after to inspect and test the work carried out.

    :thumbsup
     
  4. GLENNSPARK
    Offline

    GLENNSPARK Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    west yorks.
    well i hope that duel C/U you`v bought is a high integrity (three neutral bars) configuration.....or you`l have problems for a start with the RCBO.....
     
  5. Murdoch
    Online

    Murdoch Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Woking
    Get a competent Electrician out to test the installation would be my suggestion or get a couple more out to give you quotes for the work. Variances in prices could be explained by the fact that you're asking them for different "things"
     
  6. Smokey85
    Online

    Smokey85 Guest

    Hi Peter. The cables are actually running along the floor and upwards to the old CU (its about a meter up, hence the reason to put the new one at the top far corner of the immersion heater cupboard so its away from the immersion heater and sink). What I was hoping to do was to fit a correct rated junction boxes for each cable which does not reach (cooker, lighting, bedrom & front room sockets, kitchen sockets). Then run the cables to the new CU. I am very reluctant to replace the cables, this will be a hell of a lot of work. Do you have any thoughts on an alternative method? Cheers Smokey
     
  7. Smokey85
    Online

    Smokey85 Guest

    I am doing the work myself. I will then get an electrician to test & inspect it. The question was the best was to extend service cable by a meter. Smokey
     
  8. Smokey85
    Online

    Smokey85 Guest

    Yes it is a Wylex high integrity CU.
     
  9. Smokey85
    Online

    Smokey85 Guest

    Ok All please - I will do the work myself (please don't bombard this thread), it is not going to be that difficult other than to extend the cables by about 1m. Ideally an electrician will do this (but not at these prices), I have a more than competent ability to do the work myself (just the electrics I do are on ship). I will be doing the work myself and then having an electrician to test and ispect the compleated work (although I'll be doing this anyway). For the purpose to gain certification to rent. If it does not meet requirements, I will rewire but I am 100% positive it will. Seeing the work which electricans has not impressed me by standards. All I want is advice from people who have similar experience or idea's of extending the cables correctly bearing in mind where the cable currently feed is an old CU 20cm from a sink & 10cm from an immersion heater - seperated by an MDF panel. Cheers Smokey
     
  10. timo1
    Offline

    timo1 Electrician's Arms

    Hi,

    There are a couple of ways you could extend the cables. One would be to place the exsisting cables into an adaptable box which is suitably rated and extend that way. The service cables could be put into a henly block and extended, but without seeing the set up its really difficult to advise. I have no doubt you could do the work yourself, but as it is notifiable to the local authority (planning department) you should inform them prior to starting work, pay them a fee (usually £200 +) they will then check the work afterwards.

    Welcome to the cash cow that is part p!! An electrician cannot sign of your work and notify it unless it has been installed by him/herself as otherwise it is against the self certification rules, and it is what we all pay or fees for, but that is another subject altogether!!

    Have a chat with your local borough council, ask to speak to the department that deals with notifiable electrical work. even though the fee is a lot it may be a lot less than what you have been quoted for the work. Good luck.
     
  11. trev
    Offline

    trev Regular EF Member

    I think you will probably struggle to get someone to sign off and, more importantly, notify the install mate. If you're a qualified spark your LABC may accept your signature on the certificates, some will some will not. If not NAPIT offer a scheme whereby you can notify a few jobs via them which might work out cheaper than paying someone who may be less than scrupulous to sign off work that he has not seen every stage of. Or cheaper than the extortionate LABC fees.
    Do you have access to calibrated test equipment and know how to use it.
    Please note that's a genuine question not a slag off
     
  12. telectrix
    Online

    telectrix Scouser and Proud of It Trusted Advisor

    Location:
    cheshire/staffordshire
    Business Name:
    Telectrix
    second the last 2 posts. best way to extend circuit cables is with din rail wago connectors in an adaptable box. tails with henley blocks. you may then be able to get a registered spark to inspect and test, the work described will be visible for him to check, but it's down to him whwether or not he wants to put his name to it.
     
  13. 1shortcircuit
    Online

    1shortcircuit Guest

    I understand someone wanting to get a job done for the minimum possible and that is fair enough so long as the job is carried out safely and conforms.

    In my opinion the Din rail option is the only one to consider. The reason I say this is because if you do it any other way and change the position of the cu you will have the existing cables (coming from floor upwards outside of a safe zone).

    Before you carry out the work you will need to discuss everything with the electrician who will be signing the work off. Don't jump in and carry out the work first because you will be hard pushed to find anyone to test, inspect and CERTIFY it which is required BY LAW under Part P of the Building regulations :thumbsup
     
  14. mikeh58
    Online

    mikeh58 Guest

    Don't forget the main fuse will need to be removed by the DNO (not you) unless you intend to work live either way this is against the law.My advice get someone in from the start.
     
  15. telectrix
    Online

    telectrix Scouser and Proud of It Trusted Advisor

    Location:
    cheshire/staffordshire
    Business Name:
    Telectrix
    unless you intend to work live .

    personally, and it's only my humble opinion, but how the hell could he work if he was dead.
    :jester:
     
    • Like Like x 3
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

Electricians Directory Post a Domestic Job Post a Commercial Job