Discuss Any tips on lifting glued down chipboard? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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So. Having brought a new house the misses now wants downlights. Not an issue. Only snag is the boards aren't screwed they are glued down. I've done a few new builds but everything is wired from below so how is the best way to lift the boards? Is it just a case of expect to replace what you have to lift? Will it come up at all? Will I spend weeks scraping glue off the joists?
 
Glued chipboard is an absolute nightmare, just get the floors all replaced with floorboards!

Expect a lot of breakages, if you have the web joists then be careful not to damage them. If you can get one section up then it may be possible to lever the edges along the joists from below the floor and break the glue line, alternatively a multitool can cut the glue through slowly and laboriously but will probably cut into the floor (not the joist) as well.
It may be easier to replace the ceiling or cut large holes in the ceiling to allow you to drill the joists and then repair the holes cut.
 
It's going to be fun explaining that to customers in a few years when they want work done. "Sorry but I'm going to have to butcher your ceiling to pull some cables." Who makes up this stuff. Oh yeh. People that don't have to work with it.
 
Fitted 9 downlights in one which had tongue and groove, glued down and nailed (3") chipboard onto some sort of thin metal beamed shell that had thin ply-board between these wide apart beams
Took 2 hours to wire and fit the lights and about 3 or 4 to lift the 8x4 board

Good luck and keep the language down
 
Wire em from below, removing plasterboard or cutting access holes as required. Patch up, re-skim ceiling & paint. Probably cost you £150 of a plasterers time, some blue grit and a couple of bags of multi finish. Alternatively get her to pick out a lovely light at B&Q, but don't come on here asking how to wire it up :)
 
Can't understand all the fuss, come on lads. Just use a hole saw big enough to get your hand in, cut a hole in the floor above the downlight, then screw a couple of battens across each side and replace the plug you have ready made. You can easily use a long shafted spade bit to get through joists.
 
installing down lights in room already finished & especially with glued down floor is mainly done from below. if you pull that floor up it will squeak & never go back the same. mostly if lucky you will get the luck of the gods on one side & be able to fish cables between joists to each light & if very lucky when spacing down lights you might be next to a cable run & poke them through meaning less drilling as should get every other joist.
better would be depending on the house you might have eco beams & then well you would have all the luck bit of fiddly up down with the rods & you could be through without drilling.
best of luck, we usually use the rubber dust catchers & 100mm hole saw cut out keep, install wood either side of whole & then put piece back after wiring, less mess & should only leave a small hole in middle & the rim of cut out to be repaired.
 
does take me back to one of the first house rewires I undertook owner wanted to supply down lights ok no probs get the ones with individual transformers & not the ones joined to a big unit.
owner comes back from one of the big sheds & look what I got such a deal 3 down lights on one & 3 on the other, don't worry m8 we are having carpet so we can roll it back, ok I will mark up the floor board with marker pen & cut to allow access all agreed.
7 years later wife rings me having an issue with downlights they not working properly on 3 of them, that will be transformer no problem I will come over & roll back carpet locate & replace unit phone went quite for a few seconds & then the voice came back we had a wooden floor installed 3 years ago in that room.
mentioned cutting 100mm whole in ceiling & repair answer we will live with it
 
Wire em from below, removing plasterboard or cutting access holes as required. Patch up, re-skim ceiling & paint. Probably cost you £150 of a plasterers time, some blue grit and a couple of bags of multi finish. Alternatively get her to pick out a lovely light at B&Q, but don't come on here asking how to wire it up :)
If after 16 years as a spark I couldn't wire up a b&q light fitting I think I'd take up plumbing ;) can't see the misses understanding the need to plaster a brand new house though. I think it's going down the cutting squares between the joists in the cupboard and putting 3x2 in to patch the floor.
 
best way for putting in your down lights is by cutting a square holes from the top .and start putting in your down lights. couple of battens and the way you go.
 
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We just use a circular saw set to the depth of the weyroc, cut back to joists and fillet the sides and replace with new, glued and screwed back down to stop any squeaks, usually only need a sheet up in the middle of the room above and fish to each hole with rods, if we come across a joist we just cut and patch the ceiling, handy when all lights are in the same bays though.
 
Like ałl these things what you need is something called experience. It's usually possible to plan it so the lights are running down a joist length so you can often get away without wrecking the house. It's alright talking about overboarding and skimming but have you seen the mess it makes? That's if you can get a decent plasterer to get out of bed for a single ceiling. Last job I did the cupboards ran right up to the ceiling!
 
Loads of plasterers like doing little PJ's at the weekend or evenings. Just got to be in the know :). And you don't need to overboard. Do it all the time on kitchen refurbs, invariably 'cos the floor above has been tiled or laminated, and the current ceiling has been artexed.

In a new pad, its up to you. Floor up, or a few holes in the ceiling and a bit of plastering.
 
But if you've got a run say a new hob from db to kitchen thats a hole at every joist to get a drill in. You'd never justify the cost of that many plugs. Surely.

Every other joist... you can drill the joist on either side from one hole, possibly more if you can get longer drill bits/extenders on. And the cost of plugs should be covered by the time you save not having the hassle of cutting and fixing battens etc.
 

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