Connecting a wireless thermostat to a glow worm boiler

Discuss Connecting a wireless thermostat to a glow worm boiler in the Central Heating Systems area at ElectriciansForums.net

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mark bowen

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hi all ,

I’m after some help please , I’ve just had a glow worm boiler installed and wanted to add a wireless thermostat on , I just want to check how it would be wired , currently I just have a switch fuse spur next which directly feeds the boiler . There is a L N E RT ( room thermostat ) connections on the boiler and the other connection on the boiler is in one of the photos and the other the room thermostat connection a .

Any help would be appreciated

11248017-154E-4025-9032-AA28B422C653.png

D9D23D85-495A-4484-B534-C393C396FBA1.png

52D40B73-11E1-4664-A335-3697F2BD52F8.png
 
Why was this not discussed when the boiler was being installed?
What thermostat are you after?
 
mark bowen said:
Not after step by step advice just a pointer in the right direction
Click to expand...

All the advice we can give you we already have mate without giving you step-by-step instructions.
You have all the info you need.
 
Corbs said:
Has it been completed eg commissioned then ?

It's building regs so doubt it was signed off

You need to be gas safe to wire in that thermostat so best get him back or another one in
Click to expand...

Gas safe guidance....

https://www.---------------.co.uk/media/1449/who-can-legally-work-on-a-gas-appliance-factsheet.pdf

Providing you don't break a combustion chamber seal you can remove the cover of a boiler, and from what I understand there aren't many boilers in the UK where you would need to break a combustion chamber seal for wiring purposes.
 
mark bowen said:
Not after step by step advice just a pointer in the right direction
Click to expand...

You unit is going to need a power supply (line, neutral and earth). Regarding the link in the boiler (that you've shown in another picture) connect 3 and 4 on the new device to the terminal block with the link in it (removing the link as you go) and you should be good to go.

I might be inclined to use some 5 core cable (custom made you might say for this as you can use brown, blue and yellow/green for the L, N and earth). You should sleeve the conductors you use to connect the link terminals with brown tape.
 
SparkyChick said:
You unit is going to need a power supply (line, neutral and earth). Regarding the link in the boiler (that you've shown in another picture) connect 3 and 4 on the new device to the terminal block with the link in it (removing the link as you go) and you should be good to go.

I might be inclined to use some 5 core cable (custom made you might say for this as you can use brown, blue and yellow/green for the L, N and earth). You should sleeve the conductors you use to connect the link terminals with brown tape.
Click to expand...
Thank you I appreciate that
 
Ahh.. ok, sorry confusion... thought the pic was from your boiler but clearly not. Need page 12 of the boiler manual by the looks of it.
 
Bottom right of page 14 in that file you linked above... Conditions for 230v controllers. Sleeve cores with brown tape (at both ends) and connect as shown in that diagram to terminals 3 and 4 of the thermostat receiver and you should be good to go.
 
SparkyChick said:
Gas safe guidance....

https://www.---------------.co.uk/media/1449/who-can-legally-work-on-a-gas-appliance-factsheet.pdf

Providing you don't break a combustion chamber seal you can remove the cover of a boiler, and from what I understand there aren't many boilers in the UK where you would need to break a combustion chamber seal for wiring purposes.
Click to expand...

please read it again carefully as the seal is the cover,

only time you or the customer can remove the cover is when it a Decorative casing: These cases can usually be removed by the consumer e.g. can be lifted off or are
hinged panels and do not need to be unscrewed.
 
mark bowen said:
No worries . Seems this forum is more about an ego boost for the members more than anything else . atb
Click to expand...

It was about forum rules mate and you not confident about wiring mains to a device. No ego involved.
Your comment has now got you what you require so all is good.
 
SparkyChick said:
Bottom right of page 14 in that file you linked above... Conditions for 230v controllers. Sleeve cores with brown tape (at both ends) and connect as shown in that diagram to terminals 3 and 4 of the thermostat receiver and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

@Corbs , just curious why you disagree with this. The bottom right of page 14 of the document he linked does provide details of how to connect a 230v controller.

Corbs said:
please read it again carefully as the seal is the cover,

only time you or the customer can remove the cover is when it a Decorative casing: These cases can usually be removed by the consumer e.g. can be lifted off or are
hinged panels and do not need to be unscrewed.
Click to expand...

I have re-read it, and I believe I did state that you can remove the cover providing you don't break a combustion chamber seal. How is what I've said incorrect because as far as I can tell, you're saying the same thing.

Spoon said:
It was about forum rules mate and you not confident about wiring mains to a device. No ego involved.
Your comment has now got you what you require so all is good.
Click to expand...

It wasn't his comment that got him some guidance. I don't believe I have provided a step-by-step guide on how to do it, just pointed him in the right direction which is what he initially wanted. I would consider a step-by-step guide to be far more detailed. But I'm open to a discussion about it and I'm not afraid of making a mistake and being corrected by staff with more experience.
 
SparkyChick said:
@Corbs , just curious why you disagree with this. The bottom right of page 14 of the document he linked does provide details of how to connect a 230v controller.



I have re-read it, and I believe I did state that you can remove the cover providing you don't break a combustion chamber seal. How is what I've said incorrect because as far as I can tell, you're saying the same thing.



It wasn't his comment that got him some guidance. I don't believe I have provided a step-by-step guide on how to do it, just pointed him in the right direction which is what he initially wanted. I would consider a step-by-step guide to be far more detailed. But I'm open to a discussion about it and I'm not afraid of making a mistake and being corrected by staff with more experience.
Click to expand...

In short you've advised someone to break gas safety laws and sounds like you've broken them in the past also

You have to remove screws to remove the cover which makes it a combustion seal not a decorative cover
 
I think I was quite clear... you can remove the cover from a boiler providing you don't break the combustion chamber seals. Is that or is that not what I said?

Is that or is that not the guidance from Gas Safe regarding who can do what on a boiler?

In terms of what I have done... yes, I have taken the cover off a boiler... my own because the gas guy who serviced it one time left an 1/8" gap down the one side where he couldn't put the cover back on properly. How do I know it wasn't on properly because there was a draft blowing through it.
 
SparkyChick said:
I think I was quite clear... you can remove the cover from a boiler providing you don't break the combustion chamber seals. Is that or is that not what I said?

Is that or is that not the guidance from Gas Safe regarding who can do what on a boiler?

In terms of what I have done... yes, I have taken the cover off a boiler... my own because the gas guy who serviced it one time left an 1/8" gap down the one side where he couldn't put the cover back on properly. How do I know it wasn't on properly because there was a draft blowing through it.
Click to expand...

The ops boiler to get at the electrical connections you need to break the combustion seal

Also how does the op know what type of seal / system his boiler is, you just need to be mindful in the future giving out wiring info boiler side

Only wiring you can do is on a decorative case e.g. Don't need to remove any screws to remove the cover eg they normally lift off
 
Corbs said:
The ops boiler to get at the electrical connections you need to break the combustion seal

Also how does the op know what type of seal / system his boiler is, you just need to be mindful in the future giving out wiring info boiler side

Only wiring you can do is on a decorative case e.g. Don't need to remove any screws to remove the cover eg they normally lift off
Click to expand...

Now I can see your point and why I got a disagree, but it was a little too cryptic for me because I just thought you'd engaged super pedant mode and were picking my words apart.

A better approach may have been to simply state this outright, tagging the OP in as well.
 
SparkyChick said:
Now I can see your point and why I got a disagree, but it was a little too cryptic for me because I just thought you'd engaged super pedant mode and were picking my words apart.

A better approach may have been to simply state this outright, tagging the OP in as well.
Click to expand...

Np guess I should of said you have to remove screws

If you look at my pic again that I posted you will see you have to remove two screws bottom left and right to remove the cover

Not trying to be a pita :)
 
I have looked at the manual and read more of it... much of what I skimmed last night looking for wiring advice ;)

I get the point, and I'm not into knowingly suggesting someone breaks the law. It is a complicated situation with boilers. It irritates me greatly that the wiring on some is only accessible with the front cover removed.

I've got a list of things I'd like to get in terms of professional development... gas is one of them because it removes this complexity.
 
SparkyChick said:
I have looked at the manual and read more of it... much of what I skimmed last night looking for wiring advice ;)

I get the point, and I'm not into knowingly suggesting someone breaks the law. It is a complicated situation with boilers. It irritates me greatly that the wiring on some is only accessible with the front cover removed.

I've got a list of things I'd like to get in terms of professional development... gas is one of them because it removes this complexity.
Click to expand...

If you ever decide you want to go down the gas side want to learn some more / any questions pop over to the plumbers forum and ask away

Eg best way to go around getting the qualifications and best books etc
 
SparkyChick said:
It wasn't his comment that got him some guidance. I don't believe I have provided a step-by-step guide on how to do it, just pointed him in the right direction which is what he initially wanted. I would consider a step-by-step guide to be far more detailed. But I'm open to a discussion about it and I'm not afraid of making a mistake and being corrected by staff with more experience.
Click to expand...

I wasn't getting at you @SparkyChick . Every member has to make their own decision on what info to give out.
After my question below and the OP's reply I thought it better that they do not mess with mains power for their own safety. That is why I suggested they get an electrician to do the job.

Spoon said:
How confident are you at wiring mains to the thermostat receiver?
Click to expand...

mark bowen said:
Not very hence the post on here. Sure I can manage it with a bit of advice though
Click to expand...
 
Spoon said:
I wasn't getting at you @SparkyChick . Every member has to make their own decision on what info to give out.
After my question below and the OP's reply I thought it better that they do not mess with mains power for their own safety. That is why I suggested they get an electrician to do the job.
Click to expand...

And I didn't think you were :) I was just setting out my position on why I felt it was OK, but I made a mistake regarding the gas side. Live and learn.
 
SparkyChick said:
And I didn't think you were :) I was just setting out my position on why I felt it was OK, but I made a mistake regarding the gas side. Live and learn.
Click to expand...
Don't worry.....I'm damn sure a lot more plumbers have created a dangerous situation installing an electrical supply for a boiler than electricians have removing a boiler cover for a supply test...…..or wiring in a remote 'stat, if it comes to it.;)
 
ipf said:
Don't worry.....I'm damn sure a lot more plumbers have created a dangerous situation installing an electrical supply for a boiler than electricians have removing a boiler cover for a supply test...…..or wiring in a remote 'stat, if it comes to it.;)
Click to expand...

Also seen a lot of sparkys do dangerous consumer unit installs since the am3 came out

--- for tat, each trade has its bad and good
 
Corbs said:
The ops boiler to get at the electrical connections you need to break the combustion seal

Also how does the op know what type of seal / system his boiler is, you just need to be mindful in the future giving out wiring info boiler side

Only wiring you can do is on a decorative case e.g. Don't need to remove any screws to remove the cover eg they normally lift off
Click to expand...

The op's boiler is a betacom isn't it ? So there is no breaking of the combustion seal to wire it.
 
Given that the boiler is "room sealed" and has a balanced flue with an exhaust fan to create negative pressure in the combustion chamber and air intake from outside. are you saying that the clip over the top and 2 small screws at the bottom are sufficient to hermetically seal that boiler? And what about the plumbing and wiring entries, are they sealed as well? That's a decorative case. The combustion chamber is internal and separate from the cover illustrated in the manual . Anyone could remove that without being gas safe registered.
 
If you read the guidance from Gas Safe (the one I posted), it does go on to explain further.

If the cover forms part of the combustion circuit (typically the inlet airflow path) you need to be Gas Safe to remove it. Take a close look at the cables... they are very well sealed where they enter the cavity.
 
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