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Discuss Crimping tool in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

rubbish. you need a ratchet crimping tool. price varies from DIY toos under £20 to professional one scosting around £60 -£80. generallyit's a different tool for non insulated.
 
No, the sizes at the top are wire stripping. They are not very good at that either :(
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What kind of work do you want to do with them?
What are for then ?

I need to crimp car speaker wires.

Can I use one of these:
milner-klesta-1034t-za-buksne.png

st-229542-kl-blankerice-210mm.png
 
Knipex stuff is very good.

But even the low end ratchet crimps at £12-ish so such a great job compared to the nasty £4 pliers-type they are well worth it. The effort of fixing a single bad joint down the line pays for it alone!
 
These are like Rolls Royce of crimps.
apart from the quality. the jaws are a lot slimmer than most, so you can crimp each end separately without the tool overlapping to the other end.
 
I understand that good connection is desirable, but I can't afford to pay 50$ or pounds, or euros, just to crimp 2-3 wires. That's just not acceptable. I will crimp it with tool I have, or with the one I suggested to buy. I have tried them, and I am sure it will hold for longer period of time. If someone has better solution, then I will reconsider.
 
If you only need a couple crimped then why not pay a local sparky or garage a couple of Euro (or a beer) to do it for you?

Spending even 5 Euro on a rubbish crimp tool for a couple of connections only does not make sense!
 
I tried to crimp this small wire into but connector 1.5 mm, but wire is too small and I can't crimp it good. I don't know what the size of wire is.
What should I do with the wire, should I fold it back down the wire insulation and crimp all of it?
IMG_20200523_140056.jpg
 
I tried to crimp this small wire into but connector 1.5 mm, but wire is too small and I can't crimp it good. I don't know what the size of wire is.
What should I do with the wire, should I fold it back down the wire insulation and crimp all of it?
You can fold back the conductor to crimp that with the metal part more effectively, but it is not a good idea to have any insulation in the conductor crimp section as the whole point of a reliable crimp joint is there is sufficient compression pressure to cold-weld the conductors together.
 
Not really. For a start they used different crimp tools - the "bad" one was not done with the correct style of crimp.

Also the red terminals should work for 0.5mm-1.5mm cable size, and if you double-back the conductor that is down to 0.25mm which is very thin, well below what is suitable for any sort of power (current rating around 2A or so). If the doubled-over conductor is not holding then it is simply a lack of crimp force!
 
Not really. For a start they used different crimp tools - the "bad" one was not done with the correct style of crimp.

Also the red terminals should work for 0.5mm-1.5mm cable size, and if you double-back the conductor that is down to 0.25mm which is very thin, well below what is suitable for any sort of power (current rating around 2A or so). If the doubled-over conductor is not holding then it is simply a lack of crimp force!
I tried to even fold wire 2x, but I just can't crimp it good, connector doesn't even hold the wire, yet alone compress it.
 
I refer you back to the original discussion about how rubbish those crimp tools are :(
I tried tool in #1. I can see that crimping space is higher then in tool in #11. I can buy tool #11 but I don't know if that's going to be better. Honestly, I think wire is too thin to be crimped in but connector, I might have to consider some other joint.
 
I tried tool in #1. I can see that crimping space is higher then in tool in #11. I can buy tool #11 but I don't know if that's going to be better.
It will not.

Look for a cheap ratchet style tool in your local DIY or automotive accessory type shops if you want something better.

Honestly, I think wire is too thin to be crimped in but connector, I might have to consider some other joint.
Try folding the wire twice (i.e. to 4 * original thickness).
 
Use uninsulated crimps, solder the wire in and use heat shrink sleeving.
Could have done them all in less time than it takes to post on here ?
 
I tried tool in #1. I can see that crimping space is higher then in tool in #11. I can buy tool #11 but I don't know if that's going to be better. Honestly, I think wire is too thin to be crimped in but connector, I might have to consider some other joint.
Use uninsulated crimps, solder the wire in and use heat shrink sleeving.
Could have done them all in less time than it takes to post on here ?
I don't know to solder.
I could only twist wires together, and use heat shrink with lighter.
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I don't know to solder.
I could only twist wires together, and use heat shrink with lighter.

What diameter of heat shrink sleeve should I use with there wires that are about 1 mm in diameter ?
 
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It's more cheaper to buy solder iron and solder then to buy crimp tool.
But, I have read on one forum for car speakers: "The reason I used crimp connectors is I found the factory wire seemed liked it had been burnt and I couldn't get a solder joint"
What can this be? Has wire oxidized maybe?
 
It's more cheaper to buy solder iron and solder then to buy crimp tool.
But, I have read on one forum for car speakers: "The reason I used crimp connectors is I found the factory wire seemed liked it had been burnt and I couldn't get a solder joint"
What can this be? Has wire oxidized maybe?
Normal copper wire (or tinned copper) is easy to solder if you have any skill in that area.

But sometimes you find cheaper stuff being used. Aluminium wire is hard to solder, and you also see copper wire spiralled around a thread for earphones which is also practically impossible to solder.

Crimping is quick and very reliable (more so than screw connections) if you use the correct tool. By time you bought the cheap and useless crimp tool, a soldering iron, solder, and practised soldering and not burning your fingers, you could probably have bought something like this for US $12.79:

If you simply need to join two wires, and you do not need a push-on terminal or ring tag, then just use some Wago terminals or a screw terminal block. You can probably get them in Serbia no problem but I don't know where to look and not everywhere sells them in small numbers. Here is a UK example:
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/wago-2-way-lever-connector-221-series-32a-pack-of-100/8421r

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/debox-in-line-connector-box/8692h
 
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Normal copper wire (or tinned copper) is easy to solder if you have any skill in that area.

But sometimes you find cheaper stuff being used. Aluminium wire is hard to solder, and you also see copper wire spiralled around a thread for earphones which is also practically impossible to solder.

Crimping is quick and very reliable (more so than screw connections) if you use the correct tool. By time you bought the cheap and useless crimp tool, a soldering iron, solder, and practised soldering and not burning your fingers, you could probably have bought something like this for US $12.79:

If you simply need to join two wires, and you do not need a push-on terminal or ring tag, then just use some Wago terminals or a screw terminal block. You can probably get them in Serbia no problem but I don't know where to look and not everywhere sells them in small numbers. Here is a UK example:
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/wago-2-way-lever-connector-221-series-32a-pack-of-100/8421r

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/debox-in-line-connector-box/8692h
Last one seems like a good option, I saw that one today, but without cover box. I'll look at it.
Ratchet crimp that you suggested cost about 25 Euros here, due to customs and shipping.
 
I understand that good connection is desirable, but I can't afford to pay 50$ or pounds, or euros, just to crimp 2-3 wires. That's just not acceptable. I will crimp it with tool I have, or with the one I suggested to buy. I have tried them, and I am sure it will hold for longer period of time. If someone has better solution, then I will reconsider.

Just speaker wires.. Just twist em together that's what I used to do with no issue. If I couldn't find insulation tape I would use a bit of sellotape instead. Sounded great!
 
The problems with the plier type crimpers that many places sell is that they simply don't work. People sell them because people will buy them, not because they are any good :rolleyes: And people will buy them because they are labelled as "crimp tool" and they are cheap.
The main reason they don't work is that they do not properly squash the terminal down. A "decent" crimp will close the hole in such that the strands are subject to pressure from all around - done right the pressure is so high that the joint is "gas tight" (oxygen can't get in and corrode the faces of the metal). If you look at the ratchet tools people have been pointing you to, they constrain the sides of the terminal so it can't spread, and thus they close up the hole nicely.
These cheap pliers simply squash the terminal hole into an oval - leaving the strands free to migrate outwards with limited pressure on the faces that do meet. This is compounded by ---- poor geometry that means anyone less than an 800lb gorilla will not get anything like the pressure needed to create anything resembling a crimped connection. I do have a pair in my box (that I bought maaaaany years ago before I knew better), they don't get used for crimping terminals - actually they rarely come out at all and just live in a box of terminals as I'd gain nothing by throwing them out of it.
I can tell you from bitter experience, the pain of unreliable crimped connections is to be avoided. Maaany years ago I sort-of rewire my old Escort - and guess what, "crimped" many connections. I was constantly plagued by random faults caused by bad joints - including the large yellow crimp where the main power feed came off the starter solenoid :rage:
 
I gave up on crimping, I bought a solder iron, learned to solder, and I have soldered wires to the terminals of speakers.
That cost me 7 Euros, and speakers work perfectly.
Compared to 50 Euros for proper rachet crimping tool I have saved 43 Euros, and it's way better.
 

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