Discuss Dimplex Heater Themostat Cutout update in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

kdcant

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Hi All, hope you can help I’m a competent DIYer and have Dimplex Storage Heaters (XL24N) the advice I need is that I ordered a new Thermostat Cutout assembly a while ago and fitted it fine to one Heater, the other one got a problem not restricting the input ie. full heat all the time, I ordered another thinking same problem, But the older one has a different internal layout with a old cutout, See pics, The question is, If I instal the new one, do I bypass the old cutout as the new assembly is sold as a Themostat Input/Cutout.
Appreciate any advice/Ideas please
5FCB5B7E-DC2A-4CAE-A778-0D384C38C7F8.jpegDA033D1B-2303-4ECE-9096-49C7E85B37B4.jpeg
 
You could try calling Dimplex on 0344 879 35 88 and checking with them.
All the cut-out does is open/interrupt the circuit if the overheat temperature is reached.
Therefore it isn't technically necessary to bypass it, you'd simply have two cut out switches if the new assembly has one within it.
While I would agree with the logic that it isn't needed, in the absence of manufacture assurance that the retro-fit was safe I'd be inclined to leave the old one in circuit.
 
Last edited:
You could try calling Dimplex on 0344 879 35 88 and checking with them.
All the cut-out does is open/interrupt the circuit if the overheat temperature is reached.
Therefore it isn't technically necessary to bypass it, you'd simply have two cut out switches if the new assembly has one within it.
While I would agree with the logic that it isn't needed, in the absence of manufacture assurance that the retro-fit was safe I'd be inclined to leave the old one in circuit.
 
You could try calling Dimplex on 0344 879 35 88 and checking with them.
All the cut-out does is open/interrupt the circuit if the overheat temperature is reached.
Therefore it isn't technically necessary to bypass it, you'd simply have two cut out switches if the new assembly has one within it.
While I would agree with the logic that it isn't needed, in the absence of manufacture assurance that the retro-fit was safe I'd be inclined to leave the old one in circuit.
Thanks for your reply, that was my line of thinking anyway
 
Note that one push-on terminal connected to that overheat cutout appears to be burnt and in need of replacement. Simply plugging the overheated terminal onto a new cutout, or leaving it in circuit, is not adequate as the terminal will make a high-resistance connection to the new cutout and cause it to overheat too. A new crimp terminal rated for the correct temperature would need fitting, or the affected wire link replaced.
 

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