Discuss Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views! in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
Ah the old Tippex of monitor sort of person...I like this one. The Air Con 'engineers' labelled up 'AC' without taking the schedule out of it's see through sleeve.
Yes and also available in different sizes, you will also notice that they are grooved for air flow.It is a vehicle, but anyway are these available for 230V?
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Yes and also available in different sizes, you will also notice that they are grooved for air flow.
seen that quite a few times. (the practice, not the photo!)One way to stop the RCD tripping out
Gee, had they only used cable able to take the full current should it disconnect...One way to stop the RCD tripping out
it is switched off (disconnected) i doubt that it would stay on if you reset it.Gee, had they only used cable able to take the full current should it disconnect...
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Surely they could have done it neater than this... maybe drill a hole so the cable pops out behind the hand dryers just to the right of the FCUs? Or at least loop the cable neatly. They're not even remotely level either!
FCUs don't even match. One front entry and the other bottom.
Damn, that's a proper bodge, just wago in a mcb and wrap a load of tape around it.ah, friday afternoon, cant find a switched fuse in the van, light switch will do!!
If they raised the hand driers hopefully the fcu would be at least levelView attachment 105582
Surely they could have done it neater than this... maybe drill a hole so the cable pops out behind the hand dryers just to the right of the FCUs? Or at least loop the cable neatly. They're not even remotely level either!
Sounds a bit like a few films someone told me about.FCUs don't even match. One front entry and the other bottom.
Yep those wires definitely aren't attached to the insulators rightYeah I think your right. I thought this looked iffy too:
That is far more difficult than fitting the correct breakerYeehaw Ride em home, cowboy.
Now this takes thinking outside the box to a whole new level of special kind of stupid.
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You’ve gotta hand it to them though. They didn’t take the path of least resistance.That is far more difficult than fitting the correct breaker
Defiantly wrong using mixed manufacturesYeehaw Ride em home, cowboy.
Now this takes thinking outside the box to a whole new level of special kind of stupid.
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shouldnt matter, as technically its not INSTALLED IN another manufacturers board..... Its not IN any board!Defiantly wrong using mixed manufactures
I'll tipex out the c3 thenshouldnt matter, as technically its not INSTALLED IN another manufacturers board..... Its not IN any board!
I’ll let you draw your own conclusions and yes. That is a 3pole fan isolator.
That’s the point, it isn’t. The grey T&E coming down the wall is direct from the CU.It's normal to fit a 3 pole isolator next to the boiler if the switchfuse is remote from the boiler, this satisfies manufacturers and gas-safe requirements for a local isolator to the boiler.
Obviously it needs to be 3 pole in order to isolate live, neutral and switched live.
Yeehaw Ride em home, cowboy.
Now this takes thinking outside the box to a whole new level of special kind of stupid.
That’s the point, it isn’t. The grey T&E coming down the wall is direct from the CU.
Nope, straight into a 6a MCB.No FCU?
I would have used a TP isolator as well, but would have fitted it on a PVC surface box, fitted with a 20mm gland for strain relief of the flex.
Is there something a bit dubious where the flex connects to the boiler PCB?
See this often on extractor fans, even though the manufacturer's instructions specify a 3A fuse.Nope, straight into a 6a MCB.
Shouldn't the wires be pushed into the holes on the left of the block?If you follow the black wire from the flex which is in terminal RT. That leads back to the centre common on the 3 pole switch.
The only cable connected on the outgoing 3C&E is the brown into Common L1
The L & N on the T&E are connected to L2 and Common N.
I might be mistaken as I’ve not seen a new boiler like this round my way. Most are old style S-Plan systems from oil boilers. But I’m not sure how that is ever going to supply the right signal from the controller.
Funny you should say that….See this often on extractor fans, even though the manufacturer's instructions specify a 3A fuse.
No that's the screw terminals access.Shouldn't the wires be pushed into the holes on the left of the block?
Ah! Thought it looked like maintenance free type push in terminals, and they'd jammed the wires down where you push a small screwdriver to release a wire.No that's the screw terminals access.
If I had to guess, it looks like the black and red are the supply from the CU, and are joined to the blue and black on the boiler flex.If you follow the black wire from the flex which is in terminal RT. That leads back to the centre common on the 3 pole switch.
The only cable connected on the outgoing 3C&E is the brown into Common L1
The L & N on the T&E are connected to L2 and Common N.
I might be mistaken as I’ve not seen a new boiler like this round my way. Most are old style S-Plan systems from oil boilers. But I’m not sure how that is ever going to supply the right signal from the controller.
It just needs a supply and an extra core for the RT terminal.So it seems it’s a bodge between 3 & 5 core wiring. But I need to work out how to wire this now and plumb in a FCU as well.
That link has been removed.It just needs a supply and an extra core for the RT terminal.
When the RT (room thermostat) terminal becomes live, the boiler will fire. The Live can come from the supply side, it doesn't need to loop back.
You also need to remove the little link that says "ignore the room thermostat" on the other plug as per your photo.
Close, it was the man who came to fix the flat roof that was leakingNothing screams builders board change more than a BG
That's a cracker!BG Of course
Yup was a old wire rewireable fusebox.That's a cracker!
You can easily see that those two extended cpc's once had a former happier life when they lived in Wylex land....
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