Downlighters and Lamps: 12v vs 240v, Halogen vs Compact Fluorescent vs LED

[phawk]

Hi everyone,

I’m sure this may have been done already, but there is a debate I have with colleagues about the best type of downlighter to install, and in turn the best type of lamp to use in the fitting, and I’d like to put the debate to bed once and for all.

The way I see it is as follows:

12v pros:

‘Safer’ as they run at 12v
Slightly brighter than 240v

12v cons:

Need a separate transformer that can go wrong.
More wiring involved due to transformer.
If you want to replace the halogen lamp with a LED lamp the transformer may or may not be LED compatible – may need a LED driver instead.
Slightly more expensive to run, due to transformer losses.
Run hotter than 240v.
Difficult to IR test due to the transformer.


240v pros:

Easy to install (minimal wiring).
No transformers to go wrong.
Can replace halogen lamps with LED lamps like-for–like.
Easy to IR test (just remove lamps).

240v cons:

Not as ‘safe’ as 12v.


Also,

Halogen vs LED vs Compact Fluorescent

Halogen pros:

Cheap to buy.
Dimmable.
Easily available.

Halogen cons:

Get very hot.
Don’t last very long.
Very expensive to run.
May be outlawed at some point due to poor energy efficiency.


Compact fluorescent pros:

Cheaper to run than halogens.
Last longer than halogens.

Compact fluorescent cons:

More expensive than halogens to buy.
Difficult to dispose of correctly when they eventually go.
Can’t be dimmed.


LED pros:

Very cheap to run.
Last longer than compacts or halogens.
Bright.
Will more than pay for themselves during the life of the lamp compared to halogens.

LED cons:

More expensive than compacts or halogens.
Dimmable versions even more expensive.


So…………..

I would always install 240v GU10 fire rated down lighters, then put the the halogen lamp in a drawer and replace it with a LED (dimmable or not depending on requirements).

Nice an easy to install, complies with building regs and low energy. May be a bit more expensive than a halogen lamp but if I can persuade the customer to look at long term savings then I think this is the way forward.

Also, can anyone enlighten me as to why buying a ‘LED Downlight’ (as a complete fitting) is so much more expensive than buying a standard fitting and replacing the lamp?



All comments welcome please (he says ducking for cover........

 

[Fin170]

I tend to use the JCC LED fittings, the finish is usually enough to sell them but then pointing out things like 10 year warranty and the electricity meter not catching fire when I turn them on helps

I'd avoid 12v like the plague and wouldn't call them safer by any means (yes i get the 12v part but given everything is RCD'd now and 12v are too much of a fire risk for my liking)

No longer see the point of CFL ones, take too long to warm up and they're £15 where a basic LED fitting is 17 and one with a 10 year warranty is 20

 

[phawk]

I agree, I put the 'safe' in quotations as I knew somebody would say 'but the 12v ones are safer!' LOL

I use the Firestop brand from QVS then retrofit the LEDs. Works out about £15ish.

 

[telectrix]

you missed out 1 con for cfl's. dimmer than tim (nice but dim), and by the time they've warmed up, you're out the door.

 

[dim_bulb]

I think that's a good summary

End of the day it's all done to what the customer wants as its there dosh and what you can say to influence there decision