Extending Imperial Pyro

[ipf]

Galv box would be easier for terminating the earths.

This is my first kitchen job so I want to get it right first time as this will lead in for more business.

If your talking 16mm... that pyro might be a bit solid, too.....I think a bit bigger than a 6''x 6'' box would make it easier. Terms will take up a fair bit of space.

 

[Midwest]

What about a suitably sized IP65 Metal Enclosure, something like this;


Bit more nicer looking, and hopefully keep the fat at bay. Lockable as well.

 

[KennyKen]

Sorrell Box, ??

 

[James]

What about a suitably sized IP65 Metal Enclosure, something like this;

View attachment 55180
Bit more nicer looking, and hopefully keep the fat at bay. Lockable as well.

Look at Rs components, they have some nice stainless steel enclosures that would suit the application

 

[davesparks]

Seriously? Extending MICC with T&E?

 

[ipf]

Depends on situation. As a rule it's swa feeding a DB, especially considering the situation and earth required.

Could really push the boat out and get some more MICC.

 

[freddo]

Could really push the boat out and get some more MICC.

That's the more fun option! For extra super fun, extend the cable with MI by silver soldering the conductors then a brass sleeve over the joint filling it with magnesium oxide powder as you slide it over. I wonder if Pyrotenax still make the sleeves for this type of joint?

 

[ipf]

That's the more fun option! For extra super fun, extend the cable with MI by silver soldering the conductors then a brass sleeve over the joint filling it with magnesium oxide powder as you slide it over. I wonder if Pyrotenax still make the sleeves for this type of joint?

So that's why one old lad I used to know saved the powder in a tin. I thought he used to snort it over the weekend.

 

[freddo]

So that's why one old lad I used to know saved the powder in a tin. I thought he used to snort it over the weekend.

You can use it to patch an MI cable with a damaged sheath but un-damaged conductors too. Clean the sheath thoroughly around the damage to allow soldering. Cut out the damaged/burred section and remove any contaminated powder. Make patch out of copper sheet and form to fit cable, clean. Make up a paste with some spare mag ox powder and water and pack it into the cable. Dry the cable gently until insulation resistance reads clear. Silver solder patch on making sure there are no unsoldered gaps around the edge of the patch. Check insulation resistance again then put the kettle on. It's super fun, though I've only had the chance to do it once in a house on a 2L4 that got damaged by a builder waving his circular saw around.

 

[Strima]

I would love to extend using MICC however a, the customer won’t pay for it, b, the installation method doesn’t warrant it as it will be in trunking.