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I like my pyros naked, and buffed to a shine. But then I am a bit of a deviant...
I always thought orange was for fire alarms
Discuss External surface wiring in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
I like my pyros naked, and buffed to a shine. But then I am a bit of a deviant...
The orange was mostly for external. Flood and security lighting for local council work. Aesthetics for the brickwork, as a rule.I always thought orange was for fire alarms
Local authorities used to be really important for providing local work for local contractors...….that's gone down the pan with todays budgets and those in charge of them.Back in the 80's all our local authority work was in Pyro, they would specify 4.0mm HG for an additional single socket in a school....I remember thinking we could run the whole school on that!
I think you are looking at the job the wrong way and we’ve all been there trying to keep costs down for a tight wad customer and / or win the job. Best thing you can do is to design the job the way you know it should be done for the best installation method/suitable for the conditions ( in other words to BS7671 and good workmanship standards) give the quote and sleep easy. If it’s too much for the customer/mate to pay then explain the cost/reason and walk away if not willing to pay. I know it’s tough out there and we all need to be paid/make money but trust me it’s not worth you taking the stress for what you know to be substandard work when the customer is penny wise pound foolish.
I always thought orange was for fire alarms
Rule of thumb are not requirements. BS5266 cites no colour for a cable sheath for emergency lighting. BS5839:1 recommends red sheath for fire alarm systems. Orange is suggested to differentiate between electrical and gas/water services generally for conduits/tubes and this was probably adopted for MICC due to its pipework appearance.As a general rule of thumb in a building where all three colours are used orange is general purpose wiring, red is fire alarms and white is emergency lighting (central battery type)
Rule of thumb are not requirements. BS5266 cites no colour for a cable sheath for emergency lighting. BS5839:1 recommends red sheath for fire alarm systems. Orange is suggested to differentiate between electrical and gas/water services generally for conduits/tubes and this was probably adopted for MICC due to its pipework appearance.
How was the hi tuff? I've had some really easy to strip and some rock solid.Job done , combination of hi tuff , wiska boxes and flex to the lights...
didnt look too bad as surface wiring goes
It wasn’t great to be honest , used a knife to score the outer sheath but was a pig to wiggle / pull the bit off...I’m glad I only had to make off 4 ends.How was the hi tuff? I've had some really easy to strip and some rock solid.
It wasn’t great to be honest , used a knife to score the outer sheath but was a pig to wiggle / pull the bit off...I’m glad I only had to make off 4 ends.
FP is much easier to strip imo
Older Hi-tuf, if you come across it, was a real pig, it was possible to waste 5 minutes trying to strip the outer sheath which was made of re-constituted granite superglued to the inner sheath.
Never had an issue with new stuff though. Just score round with a Stanley, flex it back and forth a few times and the outer sheath will usually pull of easily. If you need a longer conductor length then after scoring run the Stanley down the length to open it up before pulling off the sheath.
I had some about 12 months ago which was an absolute doddle to strip...then some last month as 'tuff' as owd boots. Both only 1.5 3 core but the second batch was slightly smaller, overall. Different suppliers , so different manufacturers and specs....they still do both.Older Hi-tuf, if you come across it, was a real pig, it was possible to waste 5 minutes trying to strip the outer sheath which was made of re-constituted granite superglued to the inner sheath.
Never had an issue with new stuff though. Just score round with a Stanley, flex it back and forth a few times and the outer sheath will usually pull of easily. If you need a longer conductor length then after scoring run the Stanley down the length to open it up before pulling off the sheath.
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