UK Grid / Minigrid wiring to an unswitched socket for kitchen appliances.

[pc1966]

In most cases the grid switches will be feeding an unswitched 13A socket, or maybe a FCU, so you have your <= 13A fuse there.

But definitely a deep back-box!

 

[Lister1987]

This is a private job that is then going to be tested and signed off. Any reason?

Nothing personal on you @daavvee , just due diligence, and probably a polite advert (to follow) to join our trainees section in a slightly 'less hostile' area of the forum.

The difference between how public doing thier own electrics and trainees doing electrics is the whole 'a little knowledge can be dangerous' thing, the trainee section allows the seeking of advice and better steering towards an outcome, with a bit of creative feedback in the process, plus there are others in your position too ?

 

[richy3333]

Hostile, this forum, never ???

 

[loz2754]

Because dp switches come rated at 20A....

Indeed. However, the data sheet for Click Mini Grid Double Pole single module switches says they are 13 amp (resistive) ,10AX.
This is not something I've come across before.
Could be confusing for the less experienced.
I would be inclined to (not install appliances on a grid system, just my personal preference) install a proper grid switch system with the DP switches rated at 20 amps.

 

[pc1966]

Some grid switches are intended for lighting and 10A or so rated, others are 20A, typically the DP switches, so you do need to check the spec carefully!

 

[UNG]

I only used the click minigrid once for kitchen appliance switching and had a few issues with it so I wouldn't recommend it. When I was chatting to one of the Scolmore reps about the problems I had they recommended using the grid pro range instead

 

[loz2754]

Some grid switches are intended for lighting and 10A or so rated, others are 20A, typically the DP switches, so you do need to check the spec carefully!

The Click Mode Mini Grid DP 13 amp rated switches come labelled with appliances like Oven, Washing Machine etc.
Although I'm a big fan of the Click range in general, I am a little skeptical about the use of the Mini Grid switches for high load appliances.

 

[UNG]

The Click Mode Mini Grid DP 13 amp rated switches come labelled with appliances like Oven, Washing Machine etc.
Although I'm a big fan of the Click range in general, I am a little skeptical about the use of the Mini Grid switches for high load appliances.

Part of the problem I had was the stiffness of the 2.5 cable was twisting the switches out of the grid as you pushed it back into the box with similar problems if you need to remove it to replace a switch IMO using the minigrid created more problems than it solved

 

[daavvee]

So I spoke with Scolmore directly today, who I might add, were extremely helpful.

They’ve said that the grid switches can form part of a ring protected by a 32A MCB/RCBO and that the grid switches do not need to be fused providing the appliance that is connected has its own fuse. Moreover, they have said that the 13A grid switches would be suitable fo everything, but did mention a deep back box and perhaps a radial for any high demand appliances.

Kudos to all those who helped.

First fix complete. Let’s see how things go.

 

[brianmoooore]

Any 'fixed' appliance 2kW or over (in this example, the oven), should have its own dedicated supply from the CU.
Igniter and fridge/freezer are trivial loads, and wash/mac. is a high, but very intermittent load, so these three could come off of the existing RFC. They will need fusing downstream from the switches.

I should I expanded more on the last sentence. Fusing is required, but this can be the fuse in a 13A plug, if the switch is connected to a single 13A socket, or a fuse in a SFC if the appliance is hard wired.
I would not include a fuse built into an appliance, because the appliance might be replaced by unfused version, by an unskilled person, at some time in the future.