has anyone successfully fitted 10mm cable, 45A switch, 1gang backbox?

[MrMan1O1]

Switch will be in stud wall; cable currently running horizontally....looks like I may need to pull some slack through to run cables through top and bottom of backbox...or strip back sheath and bring through back of plastic box using a 25mm grommet. The 45A switch wiil be in a kitchen for an induction range cooker and I'd rather not use a longer type of switch that are usually used as shower isolators.

 

[pc1966]

How deep a back-box?

 

[Julie.]

How deep a back-box?

30 fathoms - He was a submariner

 

[MrMan1O1]

How deep a back-box?

47mm with 95mm void in wall
[automerge]1590607631[/automerge]

How deep a back-box?

47mm
[automerge]1590607893[/automerge]

30 fathoms - He was a submariner

deeper the better I'm told

 

[buzzlightyear]

.looks like I may need to pull some slack through to run cables through top and bottom of backbox..

I'm glad your doing it ,I'm holding my breath .lol.

 

[telectrix]

could you fit a contactor below worktop (in the void behind base unit) , in a decent size adaptable box, connect 10mm and hob there, then use smaller cable to switch.

 

[MrMan1O1]

could you fit a contactor below worktop (in the void behind base unit) , in a decent size adaptable box, connect 10mm and hob there, then use smaller cable to switch.

could you fit a contactor below worktop (in the void behind base unit) , in a decent size adaptable box, connect 10mm and hob there, then use smaller cable to switch.

Don't know about contactor below worktop, but there's 2 or 3 contractors I'd happily put under the floorboards! Smaller cable?? Could have used 6mm and 32A breaker according to valve, but went with makers recommendation of 10mm and 45A breaker.

 

[ferg]

Yes but not easily.

Keep the dressed wires as short as possible and leave a bit of slack on the cable.

That way when the face plate is fitted the sheathing still enters the box.

I tent not to use the rear knockout though. Either top or bottom knockouts enlarged.

 

[MrMan1O1]

Yes but not easily.

Keep the dressed wires as short as possible and leave a bit of slack on the cable.

That way when the face plate is fitted the sheathing still enters the box.

I tent not to use the rear knockout though. Either top or bottom knockouts enlarged.

I have only got 31cm between the studs but by enlarging the holes I have managed to allow some slack in the cable to be pulled back and forth easier. By keeping the box central between the studs and maybe enlarging the cut outs slightly I should manage now. I've now got enough play in the cables to have the confidence to fit up the plasterboard now without leaving myself an insurmountable problem when it comes to connecting them up. I usually leave the cable cores quite long so they push into the box in a wide loop/corkscrew but I can see that keeping them short is the only way. Thanks for the advice.