Discuss Is my boiler wired right? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
Not if G/Y have been used for 'Live' conductors, therefore omitting earth connections and within cables.just wondering if it's wired correctly.
That Honeywell R6660D is a wireless receiver, e.g. for a stat, intended to monitor room temp. Do you have the HCW80 or equivalent that goes with it?PPS the controller is not a stat, it's just on/off. Timer/temp etc is built onto the boiler.
The Honeywell R6660 is ClassII device and has no provision for an earth, so you might argue there's no safety issue other that the failure to sleeve this one cable etc. etc.?Not if G/Y have been used for 'Live' conductors, therefore omitting earth connections and within cables.
L to N is coming up 50v on the stick. It's the version that is just 'prod and play', without the button.
Nah was just having a look inside out of interest, boiler works perfectly - i just click the controller on and the boiler comes on, click it off for off.Is there a fault with the heating, or are you just worried about the workmanship?
It's supposed to be wireless? No other equipment i'm afraid, just that and the boiler. I was gonna get a smarter thermostat but can't justify a couple of hundred quid to do what i can simply do manually.That Honeywell R6660D is a wireless receiver, e.g. for a stat, intended to monitor room temp. Do you have the HCW80 or equivalent that goes with it?
When i just stick one pin of the voltmeter into the black i sometimes get 50v AC. On second thought it could just be the voltmeter showing that as part of showing an AC current since i wasn't measuring across more than one wire.I am puzzled by the 50V, but I'm afraid still a bit unsure exactly what you are measuring!
I don't think there's a problem i'm just trying to work out in my head how the circuit works - who said house bashing was easy!If the boiler is working correctly, I think in the absence of a circuit diagram, you have to assume that terminals 1 and 2 are part of a separate control circuit not necessarily directly connected to the incoming mains, and be content that the voltages 'measured' don't indicate a problem!
Yep class II so no earth needed. Still poor imo to take the earth there as a live. Even some brown tape or anything woulda been better than just doing that.The Honeywell R6660 is ClassII device and has no provision for an earth, so you might argue there's no safety issue other that the failure to sleeve this one cable etc. etc.?
Nah was just having a look inside out of interest, boiler works perfectly - i just click the controller on and the boiler comes on, click it off for off.
When i just stick one pin of the voltmeter into the black i sometimes get 50v AC.
On second thought it could just be the voltmeter showing that as part of showing an AC current since i wasn't measuring across more than one wire.
I don't think there's a problem i'm just trying to work out in my head how the circuit works - who said house bashing was easy!
What you have is a wireless receiver, and back in the day would likely have had the HCW80 room stat paired to it somewhere in the house. Pic below in case you've seen that on the wall somewhere. It's battery powered.It's supposed to be wireless? No other equipment i'm afraid, just that and the boiler. I was gonna get a smarter thermostat but can't justify a couple of hundred quid to do what i can simply do manually.
Bad practice at any time, but not actually contravening regs until the recent amendment, as long as it was sleeved with a 'live' colour at each end, (which this one isn't.)Using g/y as anything other than earth does not comply with regulation
To be fair to the OP (see post #7) he is using a Fluke voltage tester, a lot more use than a chocolate fireguard.Voltage stick is as good as a chocolate fireguard, you need to measure it with a proper meter.
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