malcolmdixon
DIY
- Reaction score
- 0
Hi folks,
This is my first post, I hope you're all well and surviving the lockdown.
Long story short, I had an electrician who was going to do the skilled work while I did the grunt work of chasing and laying cable runs based on his advice. I did my part but he never returned, only fitted a new fuse box (cash in hand), so this has never been signed off either as I was expecting that to happen when all work was done. Tried to get another electrician but twice he never showed either. So, I have done nothing for months about it and with the current situation unable to anyway.
But, now it's time to get the ball rolling again, I was planning on doing it all myself and get building control in. Unless I misunderstood when I looked into the costs, it's was a lot more than I expected £500+ WTF! So, I need an electrician onboard again to do the skilled work, i.e. actual wiring up and testing.
I need to get my kitchen completed first, the plan is for that to be on a separate circuit, the whole house is on one circuit at present (plan is 3 circuits upstairs, downstairs, and kitchen).
First question, please see photo, is it okay to run the power cables in/out via the existing cable run route? This runs from upstairs, down the wall as shown and through the "exterior wall" to the kitchen "extension". This is where the cooker power cable runs and there is no plan to replace that.
Second question, as you can see in the photo the switch cable is not vertical to the switch and has a slight dog leg, as this will be replaced I suspect it should be vertically inline? Lights are on one circuit too, this will be split into upstairs and downstairs eventually plus I want it to be switch in-loop for smart home reasons. I know that diagonal runs are a big NO NO, but is it okay to run vertically then small horizontal run to the hole through into the kitchen (at cable (light power in) far left near top)?
Third question, for all new cabling is it best to use pvc conduit? I understand it's not necessary since I have a new consumer unit with RCD protection, the benefit is for future cable insertion/replacement, any advice appreciated. I'll be dead by the time it needs replaced so I'm not bothered, it'll be my son's concern lol.
Fourth question, I have a wall mounted kitchen extractor fan to fit, I have read quite a few wiring instructions and seen diagrams but I'm not 100% on whether a 3 pole isolator should be fitted. They seem to be more a requirement for a bathroom and are just for maintenance purposes. So, is it okay to just use a DP FCU, as picture attached (fuse replaced with 3A)? It is a simple fan that only requires live and negative. By switching off the FCU and removing the fuse, it's isolated.
Fifth question, please see kitchensockets picture, for a small kitchen (plan attached) this will cover my needs, however I read this is the old fashioned way of wiring a kitchen and grid circuits were mentioned! For my small kitchen is this okay or should I be looking into an alternative solution?
Last question (for now), please see the photo two_way_light_switch, as you can see the inner wall is only 2.1m high and the plan is to plasterboard to the ceiling, so when I fitted the two way light switch and outside light I ran the cable through the inner wall and up through the cavity. Later I read this was a NO NO, but in this case, it's a matter of a couple of feet as there will be a gap anyway when plaster-boarded. Any advice on this appreciated.
Thanks for your time reading this whether you reply or not, for those that reply thank you in advance.
Malcolm, desperately seeking a reliable electrician.
This is my first post, I hope you're all well and surviving the lockdown.
Long story short, I had an electrician who was going to do the skilled work while I did the grunt work of chasing and laying cable runs based on his advice. I did my part but he never returned, only fitted a new fuse box (cash in hand), so this has never been signed off either as I was expecting that to happen when all work was done. Tried to get another electrician but twice he never showed either. So, I have done nothing for months about it and with the current situation unable to anyway.
But, now it's time to get the ball rolling again, I was planning on doing it all myself and get building control in. Unless I misunderstood when I looked into the costs, it's was a lot more than I expected £500+ WTF! So, I need an electrician onboard again to do the skilled work, i.e. actual wiring up and testing.
I need to get my kitchen completed first, the plan is for that to be on a separate circuit, the whole house is on one circuit at present (plan is 3 circuits upstairs, downstairs, and kitchen).
First question, please see photo, is it okay to run the power cables in/out via the existing cable run route? This runs from upstairs, down the wall as shown and through the "exterior wall" to the kitchen "extension". This is where the cooker power cable runs and there is no plan to replace that.
Second question, as you can see in the photo the switch cable is not vertical to the switch and has a slight dog leg, as this will be replaced I suspect it should be vertically inline? Lights are on one circuit too, this will be split into upstairs and downstairs eventually plus I want it to be switch in-loop for smart home reasons. I know that diagonal runs are a big NO NO, but is it okay to run vertically then small horizontal run to the hole through into the kitchen (at cable (light power in) far left near top)?
Third question, for all new cabling is it best to use pvc conduit? I understand it's not necessary since I have a new consumer unit with RCD protection, the benefit is for future cable insertion/replacement, any advice appreciated. I'll be dead by the time it needs replaced so I'm not bothered, it'll be my son's concern lol.
Fourth question, I have a wall mounted kitchen extractor fan to fit, I have read quite a few wiring instructions and seen diagrams but I'm not 100% on whether a 3 pole isolator should be fitted. They seem to be more a requirement for a bathroom and are just for maintenance purposes. So, is it okay to just use a DP FCU, as picture attached (fuse replaced with 3A)? It is a simple fan that only requires live and negative. By switching off the FCU and removing the fuse, it's isolated.
Fifth question, please see kitchensockets picture, for a small kitchen (plan attached) this will cover my needs, however I read this is the old fashioned way of wiring a kitchen and grid circuits were mentioned! For my small kitchen is this okay or should I be looking into an alternative solution?
Last question (for now), please see the photo two_way_light_switch, as you can see the inner wall is only 2.1m high and the plan is to plasterboard to the ceiling, so when I fitted the two way light switch and outside light I ran the cable through the inner wall and up through the cavity. Later I read this was a NO NO, but in this case, it's a matter of a couple of feet as there will be a gap anyway when plaster-boarded. Any advice on this appreciated.
Thanks for your time reading this whether you reply or not, for those that reply thank you in advance.
Malcolm, desperately seeking a reliable electrician.
