Discuss Lights and heights in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

he ended up having an accident involving a fire exit and flight of steps,again due to lack of risk assesment,he failed to asses the risks involved with being abusive to me which resulted in my fist making contact with his face which caused him to hit the door which opened causing him to fall down about 4 steps.If nothing else it taught him the importance of proper risk assesment.
See, positive proof that slips, trips and falls are dangerous:)
 
I'm with Marvo on this. Believe me most of the sparkies i have met don't like heights either. I have had to change the guts out of these and even with a cherry picker its hard work to change whole fittings or the heavy ballast on your own. Believe me there is no special breed out there that has the grace of a cat and the strength of a gorilla, which is what you need to do what you are proposing on a step ladder. FWIW, my limit on a ladder against a solid wall, is 6M and even then i do not remove the whole fitting (taking security lights) i take the guts out and fix the unit on the floor and then replace it. Anything else is tower, scissor or cherry picker. .... step ladder - never considered it.
I have seen some painters operate at higher levels but the weight of a paint brush is not too difficult and there's little chance of getting a belt.
Suggest - get the management to demonstrate how it should be done
 
Yeah, got you, and the moving of all the clothes, jeez them places are packed with merchandise.

Tower I guess then, although to be fair I can see his reason for A frames, still didnt like them myself too much.

DB schedule or your boss should look for you, check if there are time clocks as well, guess all this takes time and your boss is rush rush rush.

Guess its your call in the end, sorry if that sounds harsh, let us know what your boss says, if you are not happy bin it.
 
seriously appreciate all of the advise guys, I wont lie I absolutely brick it up there. Im ok on high steps that you see in sports shops but these A frames are seriously high. I am going to take a look at that link in a second. Does the responsibilty end from his part if I work for him on a self employeed basis, at the moment I am paid via the agency but I sure I will soon be paid direct by him but again as a self employed employee if that makes sense.


Does anyone have any comments on the second question. In future im going to insist on isolateing the racks that feed the RX7s becasue the noise is proper concerning. I think I will be told that I cant do that as the customer cannot see. what shall I say to that?

Basicaly he is using your uncertainty of having and keeping a job as a lever to "persuade" you into carrying out your work in
1 an unsafe manner
2 the manner that will cost him least outlay for plant
3 another agency monkey will do as they are told
4 it would save getting staff to WORK instead of SELL SELL SELL
as for isolating the tracks thats a must as you would have to hold the rack to plug the lights in and may touch something
Clients 5 mins inconvienence Your Life Your Choice
 
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Lofty, here's a question for you mate.
How do you think your wife/girlfriend/kids/dad etc would want you to do the job?
Off a big ladder or some other way?
 
RISK Assesment an you have 3 points of contact at ALL times answer from your post would be NO so scaffold it would be A frames are ok but the bigger they are the more unstable they are and personaly I wouldnt fancy working from one without having a hand holding on
By the sound of it the clown this guy works for would probably say "well 2 feet on ladder, teeth round trunking = 3 points of contact so where,s the problem?"
 
Thought of another way, BTW - i have just made this up. Install a trapeze wire at high level and the hook your harness onto it, ha ha i cannot get the image out of my head of someone hanging in the middle of the store with no way of getting down..... perhaps not then
 
I like the gang im with but dont think the boss has my safety in mind . I cant wait to use a few of the lines in many of the posts on the team im working with (who are really nice blokes) as it will get back to the boss.

I have another question and accept im gonna be ripped apart but hopefully someone will be able to tell me what happened and thus I will have learnt something.

Basically I had to install a timer which would power the front of shop lights an hour after opening and an hour after closing and then they would turn of. I was told by the previous spark who worked in the store what breaker it was and set about isolating it. I took out the cable from the 16 amp breaker (red) and put it in a choc block, at the other end of the choc block i attaced a length of 2.5 brown and this went into the back of the timer L out. I then took another length of 2.5 brown cable and ran it from L in back into the breaker. I was told to then run a neautral from anywhere on the neautral bar to the N terminal in the back of the timer (I chose the nbeautral bar that was on the side that my breaker was on. and finally I put a cpc from the back of the timer cpc squere teminal to the earth bar again on the same side as the breaker. I turnt it on and bang there was a bright flash and all the lights and tills went down. after finding all the breakers which had tripped (in another board on another floor) power was restored but the timer was disconected and never installed. On the way home I was trying to think what had happened as I had followed the advise from the other sparky. The only thing I could think of was that there must have obcviously been another Neuatral and earth from the original red cable which was in the 16 amp breaker and this must have meant what was going out on the live wasnt coming back on the neautral as it had been split with two neautral cables if that makes sense, but then I thought that it wouldnt matter as they would have been on the same neutral bar ( I say the same but this was not proved) dodgy i know
 
Thought of another way, BTW - i have just made this up. Install a trapeze wire at high level and the hook your harness onto it, ha ha i cannot get the image out of my head of someone hanging in the middle of the store with no way of getting down..... perhaps not then


IF anyone remember gladiators, there was a game where they ran around on a figure of 8 track in the ceiling. I thought this idea could be applied to this problem where one clips themself into a track and scurrys allong inbetween the rows of lights. it then dawned om me you would have to climb high up the ladder to the roof to clip urself into it
 
Look at it this way Lofty ( lol good name for one who hates heights ) If you were meant to follow orders blindly, take stupid risks by working unsafely at height, and work all the hours in the week, God would have made you a sign fitter.
 
Does anyone know where all the replies from my other post about this have gone as I cant find them
 
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20 foot up on A frames? I could maybe just about stomach that to do a simple lamp change, and wouldn't fancy lifting the A Frames between lights either. Is adrenalin brown?

Worst I ever did was on a Scaffold about 8M up, with the platform right at the top. Well when I say did I mean I hugged the platform almost for grim death handing tools to my mate as the lights got changed.I don't like heights at all, but 3 points of contact and I am reasonable ok, or surrounded by them like in a properly erected scaffold or a scissor lift.

If they want to get someone to do that job that way they will, but as you're uncomfortable with doing it I try and get better access equipment.
 
Does anyone know where all the replies from my other post about this have gone as I cant find them

I can only see this one which is about the same job I assume but it's not a duplicate.

If there was a duplicate thread and it had no (constructive) replies it may have been deleted. If there was a duplicate thread and there were replies on both threads then they would have been merged.

You may have gathered by the long winded explanation I'm actually not sure where your other thread went :)
 
Basically I had to install a timer which would power the front of shop lights an hour after opening and an hour after closing and then they would turn of. I was told by the previous spark who worked in the store what breaker it was and set about isolating it. I took out the cable from the 16 amp breaker (red) and put it in a choc block, at the other end of the choc block i attaced a length of 2.5 brown and this went into the back of the timer L out. I then took another length of 2.5 brown cable and ran it from L in back into the breaker. I was told to then run a neautral from anywhere on the neautral bar to the N terminal in the back of the timer (I chose the nbeautral bar that was on the side that my breaker was on. and finally I put a cpc from the back of the timer cpc squere teminal to the earth bar again on the same side as the breaker. I turnt it on and bang there was a bright flash and all the lights and tills went down. after finding all the breakers which had tripped (in another board on another floor) power was restored but the timer was disconected and never installed. On the way home I was trying to think what had happened as I had followed the advise from the other sparky. The only thing I could think of was that there must have obcviously been another Neuatral and earth from the original red cable which was in the 16 amp breaker and this must have meant what was going out on the live wasnt coming back on the neautral as it had been split with two neautral cables if that makes sense, but then I thought that it wouldnt matter as they would have been on the same neutral bar ( I say the same but this was not proved
 

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