Maintaining IP4X on top entry into CU?

[HappyHippyDad]

Hello all..

I will be changing a CU soon and most of the cables will be top entry (tails are at the bottom). I've found this neat little kit of glands from wiska that state IP66 (Wiska EMT-f Quixx Wiska Quixx Kit IP66 20mm 25mm 32mm Membrane Grommet Kit C/w 14 Pieces | QVS Electrical Wholesalers), however I was wondering if there are any other options available or any other ideas for maintaining the IP4X?

Cheers.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Trunking above the top and bush it on to the board or slot it.

 

[Swcfisher]

What consumer unit will you be using?

 

[Pete999]

Wat he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[HappyHippyDad]

Trunking above the top and bush it on to the board or slot it.

Do you mean a layer of trunking running horizontally along the top of the CU and then just cut slots into the trunking to allow the cables to enter, and then use normal grommets or grommet strips for the board?

What consumer unit will you be using?

Wylex amd3 high integrity 10 way.

 

[Simonslimline]

Do you mean a layer of trunking running horizontally along the top of the CU and then just cut slots into the trunking to allow the cables to enter, and then use normal grommets or grommet strips for the board?

Better off using bush and lock rings IMO.

 

[Andy78]

I also use trunking, usually 100x50. Easy to pop in a service socket or light switch too. I usually combine it with entering from the rear.

 

[Swcfisher]

The wylex has round knock outs so could use the whiska grommets you've mentioned or the stuffing glands for T&E. Bit of 50x50 trunking and some short bushes with lock rings could have a neater finish tho.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Do you mean a layer of trunking running horizontally along the top of the CU and then just cut slots into the trunking to allow the cables to enter, and then use normal grommets or grommet strips for the board?
.

Trunking horizontally across the top of the board and trunking vertically for the cables running down the wall, depending on the layout the horizontal and vertical trunking could meet using a right angle at one end and an end cap at the other or could T in with an end cap either end of the horizontal piece.. The horizontal piece would be bushed on to the board to allow entry of the cables or could slot the board and trunking and use grommet strip.

 

[Leesparkykent]

You could bring the board off of the wall and come down in some trunking and use the rear knockouts.

 

[Dave OCD]

I also use trunking, usually 100x50. Easy to pop in a service socket or light switch too. I usually combine it with entering from the rear.

At the same time as doing the CU change ?? Impossible !

 

[Risteard]

[/COLOR]

At the same time as doing the CU change ?? Impossible !

As long as it doesn't have to be level you might manage.

 

[Andy78]

[/COLOR]

At the same time as doing the CU change ?? Impossible !

I don't understand why rear entry should be so hard.
Just flip it over onto it's face so you can get access to the back side. Then just find the appropriate hole and give it a good knock to pop right through it. I always like to run my fingers around the rim then to make sure it's nice and smooth and there is nothing to get snagged on. Even though it's usually smooth it's always best to pop a bit of rubber round it just to make sure. You can then proceed to mount it and bring your lengths right through the back side. I find doing it this way is far more satisfying and is a lot nicer to look at the end result when you've finished.

 

[Midwest]

Wylex sell a pattress for surface rear entry, for their A3 CU's.

 

[Midwest]

Hello all..

I will be changing a CU soon and most of the cables will be top entry (tails are at the bottom). I've found this neat little kit of glands from wiska that state IP66 (Wiska EMT-f Quixx Wiska Quixx Kit IP66 20mm 25mm 32mm Membrane Grommet Kit C/w 14 Pieces | QVS Electrical Wholesalers), however I was wondering if there are any other options available or any other ideas for maintaining the IP4X?

Cheers.

I've used those grommets recently. Whilst they were ok for small cables, they didn't really maintain the suggested IP rating for larger cables, 6mm etc, especially if the cable is awkward to put into the CU because of location and for 25mm tails. Although, even if the seal splits as it were, it still remains a good open grommet, if you can achieve IP rating in other ways. The Wiska sprint tails gland is quite good, but it is a hell of a size!

 

[mattg4321]

I've done away with using the Wiska tails glands as someone (I think Lee) mentioned the below on here. Quite a bit smaller than the Wiska, fit directly into a 32mm hole without an adaptor and a lot cheaper!

GripLoc® Consumer Unit Tail Kit - Nylon

 

[ipf]

Stand the board an inch or so off the wall on plywood and bring everything in the back, through slots in the ply and steel. Make the wood slot smaller than the steel one...bob's your uncle.
As regards fixing the tails.....they ain't going move anyway.

 

[DPG]

I don't understand why rear entry should be so hard.
Just flip it over onto it's face so you can get access to the back side. Then just find the appropriate hole and give it a good knock to pop right through it. I always like to run my fingers around the rim then to make sure it's nice and smooth and there is nothing to get snagged on. Even though it's usually smooth it's always best to pop a bit of rubber round it just to make sure. You can then proceed to mount it and bring your lengths right through the back side. I find doing it this way is far more satisfying and is a lot nicer to look at the end result when you've finished.

Childish innuendos. Keep it up Daz

 

[djelectric]

https://youtu.be/uOypkkgTEB0?list=PLcaz3HMKgyTbW5uJKPoKK1McUz6suxqlL

 

[HappyHippyDad]

https://youtu.be/uOypkkgTEB0?list=PLcaz3HMKgyTbW5uJKPoKK1McUz6suxqlL

Excellent video, thanks.