Plumbing Question - Shower not hot

[Mark Wright]

What type of shower is this? Thermostatic bar type?

Yep.

lets use the example its a "IBOX" Mixer (Bloody fantastic and good value ) . Many fitters dont bother setting the mixer up correctly and tell customers "showers are not legally as hot as they use to be " etc etc . Even the Override setting button is worthless if the mixer itself has been set too low . Many mixers instructions clearly show exactly how to install and test using a Digital temp gauge etc .5 mins work and many cannot be bothered ..

I've looked at the manual calibration section and taken the dial off etc and had it on Max and still not hot.

But again I know nothing about plumbing.

*But the previous shower worked at some point then didn't
* This is a new shower so should be a new cartridge valve.
*The sink a meter away get boiling hot.

I think at some point it's gonna have to come off the wall and just see without anthing connected does it get hot and then we know where we stand.

 

[brianmoooore]

Some bar showers have filters sandwiched inside the connections to the wall.
Did you turn the shaft of the temp setting end with the knob off?

 

[Mark Wright]

Some bar showers have filters sandwiched inside the connections to the wall.

Didn't know that but don't think I saw anything in the manual about it.

Did you turn the shaft of the temp setting end with the knob off?

The instructions you take it all off including the safety thing. Then connect the nob again and turn. I turned it to max.

 

[brianmoooore]

The safety stop and end stops are built into the knob. with the knob off, mark the shaft so that you know where it was, then turn the shaft whichever direction is hotter and see if that solves the problem.
If the knob was removed and put back in the wrong position, then the calibration (if the knob is marked in degrees) and the correct 'max' temp is lost.

 

[Mark Wright]

Thanks I've done all that it is on absolute max and its not hot. Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

[brianmoooore]

Did you turn the shaft further than it would go with the knob on?

 

[Mark Wright]

Here is the manual it seems pretty simple -unless i'm being totally dense I have turned it to the total maximum

 

[Mark Wright]

Suggested on the plumbing sister site isolate the cold water - Where would the cold only isolator be?
Just for testing.

 

[LukeD]

Suggested on the plumbing sister site isolate the cold water - Where would the cold only isolator be?
Just for testing.

THis ...test the temp of the hot water pipe before and after the mixer. Then if really different .Remove mixer and test flow of hot water . I hate these mixers with all my heart .For me its "ibox" or nothing

hansgrohe iBox 01800180 Universal Fitting Set 1/2 and 3/4 - https://www.plumb2u.com/PBSCProduct.asp?ItmID=28449893&AccID=122267&PGFLngID=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0tKiBhC6ARIsAAOXutkBbybNHcpq9ANEIeqJb2cL0y71t7LkCltRobB4O9eCWilzqJfKTUkaAiCxEALw%5FwcB&gad=1 They really are amazing and Ive used them in Bathrooms that cost a fortune .

 

[DPG]

Did you turn the shaft further than it would go with the knob on?

I was going to comment on this post, but I fear it would have been juvenile, so I'll refrain.

 

[Mark Wright]

First thanks everyone for your patience.

The pipe is in the wall. But I guess I should be able to feel the pipe on the tiny bit on left entering the mixer.

 

[LukeD]

First thanks everyone for your patience.

The pipe is in the wall. But I guess I should be able to feel the pipe on the tiny bit on left entering the mixer.

Fastest way is remove cartridge and run hot only if the temp is fine. Mixer is caput or not working set up correctly . hate to say it .... they are sold under a few brand names and the cartridges are always playing up. they HATE hard water

 

[brianmoooore]

Next step is to turn off both hot and cold supplies to the shower and remove the bar by unscrewing both nuts where the pipes come out of the wall. Any filters that are fitted will come off with the bar and be inside the nuts.
Close the shower doors and turn the hot supply back on. Check that the water coming out of the pipe is hot and that it is coming out of the correct pipe.

P.S. Where does the hot water come from? A combi boiler or cylinder?

 

[Mark Wright]

Next step is to turn off both hot and cold supplies to the shower and remove the bar by unscrewing both nuts where the pipes come out of the wall. Any filters that are fitted will come off with the bar and be inside the nuts.
Close the shower doors and turn the hot supply back on. Check that the water coming out of the pipe is hot and that it is coming out of the correct pipe.

P.S. Where does the hot water come from? A combi boiler or cylinder?

Yep I think thats what going to have to be done. I believe its a low pressure gravity system? so hot water from a tank. I think this needs to be done. Luckily I know a bit of an action man and I might ask for his help

Thanks again for your replies.

 

[brianmoooore]

If it's a gravity system without a pump, you're going to struggle to get this to work. From the Esteem website, it looks like your shower needs a minimum pressure of 0.2 or 0.4 bar, depending on the model. This equates to a minimum head of water of either 2m or 4m respectively, and that's without taking pipe losses into account.
In a two storey property, with the tank in the loft and the shower in a ground floor room, you might just about get it to work OK if it's the 0.2 bar version, but any other combination is going to be less than satisfactory.

 

[Mark Wright]

If it's a gravity system without a pump, you're going to struggle to get this to work. From the Esteem website, it looks like your shower needs a minimum pressure of 0.2 or 0.4 bar, depending on the model. This equates to a minimum head of water of either 2m or 4m respectively, and that's without taking pipe losses into account.
In a two storey property, with the tank in the loft and the shower in a ground floor room, you might just about get it to work OK if it's the 0.2 bar version, but any other combination is going to be less than satisfactory.

I have no idea what you just said but I'm learning and ill look into it. Thanks again for your reply.

 

[Mark Wright]

Ok another thought I'm having is maybe this has happened since the new boiler - so the hot water pump is not working correctly?


Bear with me I think the boiler is "GREENSTAR FS 30CDi & FS 42CDi Regular - Worcester Bosch" should a pump be coming on to pump the hot water in shower?

Or am I way off.

Lets say there is not enough pressure for the hot water - how can this be increased?

 

[LukeD]

You say the hot water is fine in the basin/kitchen " Basically, the Shower doesn't get that hot. I don't think it has since the boiler( I'm not 100% this was when) was changed. But the Sink and everywhere else does. " SO the supply of hot water is not the issue . The issue is probably not the boiler .Its the mixer valve hindering the full flow and limiting it temp. The fastest way .....If the supplies have isolators . Undo the got one and attach a flexi pipe and then open the isolation valve and check the temp. Or just remove the valve cartridge and see if the water gets a lot hotter and matches the kitchen sink etc etc

 

[Mark Wright]

Ok I have found a good plumber listed in the area. Do you think if I do this I sound like a total A hole or its ok?

I say I want the mixer off - and test the temperature of the hot water enetring the mixer
I want the pressure tested for bar value.
Mixer put back on wall.
I think an hour should be enough time.

Then ill decided what to do next.

 

[LukeD]

Yep I think thats what going to have to be done. I believe its a low pressure gravity system? so hot water from a tank. I think this needs to be done. Luckily I know a bit of an action man and I might ask for his help

Thanks again for your replies.

Ok I have found a good plumber listed in the area. Do you think if I do this I sound like a total A hole or its ok?

I say I want the mixer off - and test the temperature of the hot water enetring the mixer
I want the pressure tested for bar value.
Mixer put back on wall.
I think an hour should be enough time.

Then ill decided what to do next.

THis is where it can go wrong. We need to know what his responsibilities where .Ive fitted taps that a client told me to knowing the pressure was wrong and the hard water would kill the ceramic valves . But they did not listen . I got paid as I made sure I emailed them my concerns) If he was asked to just swap over the mixer , did he provide it , did he recommend it , did he check the entire system before etc etc etc ? The whole picture has to be painted first !

A good DIY person if there is access could work out the issue in 15 mins . leave the mixer on. Find under bath isolators (With luck full bore types !!) run only hot .Using a digital temp gauge gun . See temp of water before shower mixer and after . I really think its a easy "fault find" . Even just checking the hot inlet pipe by hand will soon tell you if its hotter !