I've talked to the previous tenants and they said the the heater that works fine was also connected to the RXPW4 controller plus the water heater (and it used and keeps on working fine) as well. So it seems when I moved in all of the heaters plus the water heater were connected. Next after a couple of days/weeks I switched that controller off and the heater that used to store overnight keeps on working, the water heater keeps on heating the water and the other 3 heaters don't work = do not store overnight (plus one is totally broken as it has constant buzzing noise when I turn this on). So nothing is connected to the RXPW4 now and all of them should be able to work as on it's own. I understand that maybe the pilot wire might have been overridden and that might need to be fixed somehow. Yet, now when I think about it I never ever felt any warmth in the mornings from those 3 heaters when the controller was still on, at least as I remember. Hmmmm, not sure if I switch this controller on now, will it show the way it was set up previously (just so I could see) or would I have to set it up from the start. To be honest I'm not eager to switch it on as I am afraid it might mess up the heater that is still working plus the water heater.... Is it possible for you to recommend someone who would be familiar with those heaters and might be able to help?
-
Please checkout the new poll we will be pushing hard, and want some good stories to come out of this
result are public - you can change your vote over time, which might genuinely be the case from time to time.
Discuss problem with Dimplex Duo300n heaters in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
- Reaction score
- 1,693
Might be worth phoning Dimplex customer services to find out if there is a Dimplex expert in your area
Sorry to cover old ground, but presumably you have set up 'background' heat (the storage bit) as per the instructions?
A heater buzzing seems to indicate the pcb module requires replacing. A replacement is around £100, or to have it repaired see my previous link. You will need a cooperative engineer, because I suspect many will suggest the units should be changed due to their older technology.
A new energy law was passed in 2018 "LOT 20", which requires electric heaters to comply with 'efficiency' requirements, (which your's don't meet), so some may suggest that is a reason to upgrade. However that's not mandatory.
I hope you can find someone to persevere and get to the bottom of the problem. If these heaters are a feature of other apartments around you, might be worth asking other residents who they used to fix any faults?
Frist of all, whoever you are thank you so very, very much for continuously trying to help, to find solution, to understand what is really going on also by asking the ground questions - you have lots of patience
Good idea I will call Dimplex, but if someone comes to your mind, please do let me know, I live in Oxfordshire.
Ok so starting from the last bit - people in the apartments around, just try to put up with them not working, or partially working, for some they are working ok, it seems nobody called an electrician yet or maybe if they did it was unsuccessful or maybe someone was told they would have to replace them and that is very expensive - nobody has suggested any electrician though I asked.
The heating is set up as follows:
1st heater the one that works, the background is set up for the 8th bar so it would be 7th red bar but as per the instructions you provided the link to, this blue light/bar should also be counted in), the comfort zone is on a blue light = the 1st bar . It produces a lot of heat from the night storage, till very late in the afternoon and sometimes even evening, so no point to have comfort zone on anything more than this blue light. This background and the comfort zone where like this when I took over the flat, I did not change it and it works perfectly
As I understand/think all other heaters should work as this one: accumulate enough heat overnight to share it during the day. Turning the comfort zone on, would only really be necessary in extra freezing temperatures if the storage heat would not be enough to heat up the place. Am I correct? Because, as per the instructions you have provided it seems for both the normal and the high setting the comfort zone should be on the 5th bar constantly? It does not make a sense for me as what is the point for using the comfort zone if the background zone provides the heat? Plus there is an electricity day charge for a comfort zone. I am a bit confused about it now. Anyway back to the heaters.
The 2nd heater is broke so will leave it.
The 3rd heater, the background (when I 1st checked it) was initially somewhere in the middle more or less (for sure more than 4 red bars). However, as it was not working a neighbour suggested turning it to max, to help it kick start it, just for the night. I did it but it did not work. Now the background is on the 9th bar. The comfort zone is on 1st = on a blue light.
The 4th heater, the background ( again when I 1st checked it) was initially somewhere in the middle more or less (again more than 4 bars). However, the same story as it was not working a neighbour suggested turning it to max, to help it kick start it, just for the night. I did it but it did not work. Now the background is on the 10th bar so it is max. The comfort zone is on 1st = on a blue light.
The 5th heater, the background ( again when I 1st checked it) was initially somewhere in the middle more (more than 4 red bars) or less. However, the same story as it was not working a neighbour suggested turning it to max, to help it kick start it, just for the night. I did it but it did not work. Now the background is on the 9th bar so it is max. The comfort zone is on 1st = on a blue light.
I have 3 switches on the wall for each of them. Also the instructions I have are slightly older than yours. As those heaters have been operating supposively for years, it does say in my instructions that I can adjust temperature by adding or removing one red light.
Would you say I should change those settings now? Again a bit confused about this comfort zone now, if heater no 1 works perfectly when comofor zone is on blue.
All 3 switches on the wall for each of them, except no 2, are on.Frist of all, whoever you are thank you so very, very much for continuously trying to help, to find solution, to understand what is really going on also by asking the ground questions - you have lots of patience
Good idea I will call Dimplex, but if someone comes to your mind, please do let me know, I live in Oxfordshire.
Ok so starting from the last bit - people in the apartments around, just try to put up with them not working, or partially working, for some they are working ok, it seems nobody called an electrician yet or maybe if they did it was unsuccessful or maybe someone was told they would have to replace them and that is very expensive - nobody has suggested any electrician though I asked.
The heating is set up as follows:
1st heater the one that works, the background is set up for the 8th bar so it would be 7th red bar but as per the instructions you provided the link to, this blue light/bar should also be counted in), the comfort zone is on a blue light = the 1st bar . It produces a lot of heat from the night storage, till very late in the afternoon and sometimes even evening, so no point to have comfort zone on anything more than this blue light. This background and the comfort zone where like this when I took over the flat, I did not change it and it works perfectly
As I understand/think all other heaters should work as this one: accumulate enough heat overnight to share it during the day. Turning the comfort zone on, would only really be necessary in extra freezing temperatures if the storage heat would not be enough to heat up the place. Am I correct? Because, as per the instructions you have provided it seems for both the normal and the high setting the comfort zone should be on the 5th bar constantly? It does not make a sense for me as what is the point for using the comfort zone if the background zone provides the heat? Plus there is an electricity day charge for a comfort zone. I am a bit confused about it now. Anyway back to the heaters.
The 2nd heater is broke so will leave it.
The 3rd heater, the background (when I 1st checked it) was initially somewhere in the middle more or less (for sure more than 4 red bars). However, as it was not working a neighbour suggested turning it to max, to help it kick start it, just for the night. I did it but it did not work. Now the background is on the 9th bar. The comfort zone is on 1st = on a blue light.
The 4th heater, the background ( again when I 1st checked it) was initially somewhere in the middle more or less (again more than 4 bars). However, the same story as it was not working a neighbour suggested turning it to max, to help it kick start it, just for the night. I did it but it did not work. Now the background is on the 10th bar so it is max. The comfort zone is on 1st = on a blue light.
The 5th heater, the background ( again when I 1st checked it) was initially somewhere in the middle more (more than 4 red bars) or less. However, the same story as it was not working a neighbour suggested turning it to max, to help it kick start it, just for the night. I did it but it did not work. Now the background is on the 9th bar so it is max. The comfort zone is on 1st = on a blue light.
I have 3 switches on the wall for each of them. Also the instructions I have are slightly older than yours. As those heaters have been operating supposively for years, it does say in my instructions that I can adjust temperature by adding or removing one red light.
Would you say I should change those settings now? Again a bit confused about this comfort zone now, if heater no 1 works perfectly when comofor zone is on blue.
- Reaction score
- 1,693
It seems you are doing all the right things with the controls.Frist of all, whoever you are thank you so very, very much for continuously trying to help, to find solution, to understand what is really going on also by asking the ground questions - you have lots of patience
Good idea I will call Dimplex, but if someone comes to your mind, please do let me know, I live in Oxfordshire.
Ok so starting from the last bit - people in the apartments around, just try to put up with them not working, or partially working, for some they are working ok, it seems nobody called an electrician yet or maybe if they did it was unsuccessful or maybe someone was told they would have to replace them and that is very expensive - nobody has suggested any electrician though I asked.
The heating is set up as follows:
1st heater the one that works, the background is set up for the 8th bar so it would be 7th red bar but as per the instructions you provided the link to, this blue light/bar should also be counted in), the comfort zone is on a blue light = the 1st bar . It produces a lot of heat from the night storage, till very late in the afternoon and sometimes even evening, so no point to have comfort zone on anything more than this blue light. This background and the comfort zone where like this when I took over the flat, I did not change it and it works perfectly
As I understand/think all other heaters should work as this one: accumulate enough heat overnight to share it during the day. Turning the comfort zone on, would only really be necessary in extra freezing temperatures if the storage heat would not be enough to heat up the place. Am I correct? Because, as per the instructions you have provided it seems for both the normal and the high setting the comfort zone should be on the 5th bar constantly? It does not make a sense for me as what is the point for using the comfort zone if the background zone provides the heat? Plus there is an electricity day charge for a comfort zone. I am a bit confused about it now. Anyway back to the heaters.
The 2nd heater is broke so will leave it.
The 3rd heater, the background (when I 1st checked it) was initially somewhere in the middle more or less (for sure more than 4 red bars). However, as it was not working a neighbour suggested turning it to max, to help it kick start it, just for the night. I did it but it did not work. Now the background is on the 9th bar. The comfort zone is on 1st = on a blue light.
The 4th heater, the background ( again when I 1st checked it) was initially somewhere in the middle more or less (again more than 4 bars). However, the same story as it was not working a neighbour suggested turning it to max, to help it kick start it, just for the night. I did it but it did not work. Now the background is on the 10th bar so it is max. The comfort zone is on 1st = on a blue light.
The 5th heater, the background ( again when I 1st checked it) was initially somewhere in the middle more (more than 4 red bars) or less. However, the same story as it was not working a neighbour suggested turning it to max, to help it kick start it, just for the night. I did it but it did not work. Now the background is on the 9th bar so it is max. The comfort zone is on 1st = on a blue light.
I have 3 switches on the wall for each of them. Also the instructions I have are slightly older than yours. As those heaters have been operating supposively for years, it does say in my instructions that I can adjust temperature by adding or removing one red light.
Would you say I should change those settings now? Again a bit confused about this comfort zone now, if heater no 1 works perfectly when comofor zone is on blue.
Yes the idea is to have background turned up enough to give you the heat you need through most of the day, and as you say, you probably don't need much, if any, comfort heating at all. Since the elements are not being switched on by the controllers, in the ones that don't work, for some reason, it really doesn't matter how you leave them set at the moment!
The frustrating thing is that what you really need at this point is a competent engineer with a multimeter (preferably an engineer with experience of such appliances) to check what voltages are where, and it should become quickly apparent what's wrong. You need to befriend an electrical handyman!! But then knowing what's wrong may still not fix the problem - there may be more expense searching for, purchasing and fitting parts (where available)
So why are the background heating elements not coming on?
My thoughts on possible reasons:
The off-peak supply is not getting to the heaters that don't work.
The RXPW4 controller is preventing, or not enabling, background heating because of the status it has set on the pilot wire (of the heaters that are not working)
Something within the controller of each heater has broken (but why 3 heaters all 'faulty'?)
The fusible links for the background heater have blown (but as above)
So one last suggestion - could you focus on the RXPW4 controller, and check if there is anything you are supposed to set it to to enable background heating. Presumably you have instructions for that?
Thank you for your perseverance too!
Thank you again very much. Yes I have the instruction for this controller - again old type but will do. Will read it, yet the two questions/comments I have remain:
A. somehow 1st heater and the water heater , which both were also connected to the controller still works now. Very likely they both were in a different/separate zone, and only other zones where the other heaters are might have been affected by "something" connected to that controller. At least this is my understanding of this situation.
B. When I turn this control on, will it automatically go to the old set up, or will I have to set it up from the beginning? The previous tenant told me that the zones were automatically set up already.
And one more question in relation to it "...and check if there is anything you are supposed to set it to to enable background heating..." if there will be something I would need to set up, would it mean that I always would have to have this controller on? There are flats here where they do not use it either and the heater are working. Maybe once set up, it has to be somehow properly "un set up/disconnected/disabled" rather than by switching the power on the wall, this is what I did as someone told to just do it this way.... what a mess, but we will get there. Rather scared to turn this controller on as again worrying about this working heater and the hot water heater - hopefully they are not going to be affected.
Once I have some more news in relation to it, I will post it - it might not be tomorrow as I will try to talk to one person who uses that panel and should know more, not sure when this person would be available though. Have a good evening
- Reaction score
- 1,693
Thank you for this.Thank you again very much. Yes I have the instruction for this controller - again old type but will do. Will read it, yet the two questions/comments I have remain:
A. somehow 1st heater and the water heater , which both were also connected to the controller still works now. Very likely they both were in a different/separate zone, and only other zones where the other heaters are might have been affected by "something" connected to that controller. At least this is my understanding of this situation.
B. When I turn this control on, will it automatically go to the old set up, or will I have to set it up from the beginning? The previous tenant told me that the zones were automatically set up already.
And one more question in relation to it "...and check if there is anything you are supposed to set it to to enable background heating..." if there will be something I would need to set up, would it mean that I always would have to have this controller on? There are flats here where they do not use it either and the heater are working. Maybe once set up, it has to be somehow properly "un set up/disconnected/disabled" rather than by switching the power on the wall, this is what I did as someone told to just do it this way.... what a mess, but we will get there. Rather scared to turn this controller on as again worrying about this working heater and the hot water heater - hopefully they are not going to be affected.
Once I have some more news in relation to it, I will post it - it might not be tomorrow as I will try to talk to one person who uses that panel and should know more, not sure when this person would be available though. Have a good evening
To answer A: if the water heater is connected via the Dimplex "Pilot Wire Interface Unit" (see my ramblings at the end below) to the controller, and the controller is switched off, the water heater will be permanently 'on'.
I'm beginning to understand that if the wall controller is 'off', and hence the pilot wire is 'off', then the heaters should just work from their buttons, but with none of the additional features of the wall control. However that's not completely borne out by the wall controler instructions below.
To answer B: If you turn the controller 'on', it will remember and revert to the original settings used by the previous occupants, according to the instructions.
Re the "one more question", I think I have established that your heaters ought to work with the controller in the 'off' state.
So don't worry about that, just leave the controller 'off' for the time being.
The curious thing is though, that the instructions for the controller do say that the controller should be set to 'comfort' (the sort of sun symbol) for the heaters background mode to work. see the trouble shooting part of the guide here:
So you might summon up your courage and set the wall controller to 'comfort' and see if anything changes overnight. If not, return it to 'off'!
To continue the fault finding game (!), I recommend you do a check of the off-peak fuseboard feeding the radiators:
You probably have two 'fuse boards', one for the normal power to sockets and lights etc, and one for the off-peak heaters. You should be able to tell which is which from the little labels by the fuses (MCB's). I would like you to make sure all the heater switches/'fuses' are "ON" !
If you have difficulty identifying what is what, a photo attached to your next post would help.
On the subject of your working hot water tank, I have been looking at the information on the Dimplex RXPWIF "Pilot Wire Interface Unit" that would be the connection between your wall controller and the tank, here:
This says that if the controller is switched 'off', the water heater will be on all the time. Which will be why you have hot water.
It would be useful to check if you can see a RXPWIF box on the wall wired to the immersion. If not, maybe the immersion heater is just wired directly to the off-peak supply.
Going back to your mention of the three switches on the wall for each heater (Which are presumably for day-rate power, night-rate power, and pilot wire for the controller). Is it the case that all three switches are on for all heaters (apart from the faulty/noisy one)? Has the first heater that's working properly got all 3 switches on?
Finally, can I ask if you are owner or tenant? If the latter, surely the Landlord has responsibility for sorting this out?
Last edited:
Hello, could not reply earlier, apologies, busy day.
Thank you for all the links/documents.
Will respond from the end: tenant or owner? Well, there is the 3rd option: I'm both as it is shared ownership
The landlord/managing agency would not help in terms of the heaters...Yes, for the heater that works properly, plus for all the heaters that kind of work, all 3 switches are on.
There is RXPWIF box on one side of the wall (inside the cabinet where the water tank is) and on the other side there are those two switches as per the photo. When the night rates comes on, the switch on the left on the photo is red. I've never used the switch for the immersion, as for me enough water is heated throughout the night (though I know the people who used to live here before did use the immersion as well).
The photos of the fuse boards are also here - from my point of they they all look fine.
In re to "...The curious thing is though, that the instructions for the controller do say that the controller should be set to 'comfort' (the sort of sun symbol) for the heaters background mode to work. see the trouble shooting part of the guide here:.." I had a look at it, and not sure I understand properly what would the comfort mode between 8AM & 10AM – 3PM & 9PM mean? Would it meant that option 1: the heat stored overnight is only shared/given away by the heater between 8AM & 10AM – 3PM & 9PM. Or option 2, does it meant the heaters would use the day heating (at the day rate) as well during those periods to allow the use of the night storage? Or maybe there is the 3rd option?
Also about turning this controller on - I would have to set up the day and time myself when I decide to turn this on (silly questions but better to check) probably yes?
That is all from me
- Reaction score
- 1,693
Sorry I haven't replied for a while.
Thank you for the pics, which indicate there is nothing untoward with the power arrangements.
I'm afraid, basically, I know nothing about the controller!
If you decided to try it, I would recommend setting the clock to the correct time.
But I'm inclined to believe the background heating should work with the controller switched off - something you might check with neighbours if you haven't already. If that is the case, I would leave the controller 'off'.
So it seems there's no explanation for heaters not working, other than some failure(s) inside.
As far a water heating is concerned, it seems the main heater is directly on the night rate supply, and although there is the RXPWIF switch there, it's not actively timing the water heater. That's not a problem.
So I fear I don't have any other suggestions. It sems each non-working heater needs to be opened up and fault finding carried out.
The problem here is that an engineer's call-out charge, hourly rate, and the likely cost of spares (and finding them), it likely to be considerable. For this reason you may find you will only be able to get quotes for replacing the heaters, as many may consider the 'repair' option is so unpredictable, they won't want to risk losing money!
This is where a DIY repair (by someone competent) is probably the only economically viable option!
Thank you for the pics, which indicate there is nothing untoward with the power arrangements.
I'm afraid, basically, I know nothing about the controller!
If you decided to try it, I would recommend setting the clock to the correct time.
But I'm inclined to believe the background heating should work with the controller switched off - something you might check with neighbours if you haven't already. If that is the case, I would leave the controller 'off'.
So it seems there's no explanation for heaters not working, other than some failure(s) inside.
As far a water heating is concerned, it seems the main heater is directly on the night rate supply, and although there is the RXPWIF switch there, it's not actively timing the water heater. That's not a problem.
So I fear I don't have any other suggestions. It sems each non-working heater needs to be opened up and fault finding carried out.
The problem here is that an engineer's call-out charge, hourly rate, and the likely cost of spares (and finding them), it likely to be considerable. For this reason you may find you will only be able to get quotes for replacing the heaters, as many may consider the 'repair' option is so unpredictable, they won't want to risk losing money!
This is where a DIY repair (by someone competent) is probably the only economically viable option!
Hello and thank you for all your help, advice and input in general - everything has been very helpful. I will try to sort this out somehow
Merry Christmas or Happy Holiday season Reply to problem with Dimplex Duo300n heaters in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net
Similar Threads
I've a 3 phase storage heater currently wired to the main fuse box in an office I have. The heater has 2 supplies/isolators, 1 for charging at...
I'm in the middle of preparing a quote for installing 12 x 3Kw and 4 x 2Kw halogen heaters in a church.
The system design was provided by a...
Hi all. I have a customer, manager of a retirement home and he's having problems with the original heaters. The existing heating in the multi...
Evening all,
Have been asked to wire one of these into a heating system that has no separate control (or valves) for HW & CH. Customer is going...
A silly fault in a circuit only 4m long is currently eluding me!
This is ECIR remedials of a landlords supply in a block of flats.
Circuit 2 =...
OFFICIAL SPONSORS
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc
YOUR Unread Posts
-
32 amp 3 phase socket, 300ma RCDNot readily available in this country (last time I looked), as they're not suitable for...- Latest: loz2754
-
Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views!Buy a lotto ticket immediately, or just tell me what numbers you would choose.- Latest: Mike Johnson
-
Fitting bolt in fittingA temporary wedge like a flat blade screwdriver normally does the trick!
- Latest: DefyG
This website was designed, optimised and is hosted by untold.media Operating under the name Untold Media since 2001.