Discuss RCD requirements for old install in the Electrical Wiring, Theories and Regulations area at ElectriciansForums.net

There should be a back page to the EICR explaining what the codes mean for the layman.

It says C1 and C2 would require remedial action, not C3

The company that did the EICR maybe err on the side of caution by recommending changing the CU…. or they may be just be touting for extra work…..
Saying that, you don’t have to use the same company that did the report to do the remedials


I’ve read right back, and what I understand, the original installation is rewirable fuses… if it had been left alone, there is no issue.
But you’ve said there’s been some DIY shenanigans… so when that work was done, it should have been done to the regs at the time…. Which possibly would have included adding RCDS.

The company is rightfully covering their own backs… If something does happen, they have recommended upgrading and signed the report.

It is up to you whether you go ahead with the work or not.

It should not stop you getting insurance, as it will be marked “satisfactory”
If it is “unsatisfactory” then they need to have C1 or C2 codes.
 
I would C3 the E7 board and C2 no RCDs for the sockets on the other board.

I would likely to be concerned about any DIY work. There's a higher risk where things are dabbled with. I'm generally harsher on the coding in these situations.

When alterations were made is an issue for building control, it might not be noticeable but it should still comply. I don't feel a lighting circuit is less safe installed today without an RCD than 20 years ago.
 
Electrician is also mentioning means of isolation as a problem. Does the fuse box need to have isolation on it? The E7 board does not have isolation on it but it has a switch about 5 metres from it that isolates it.

I'm assuming the older regulations when this was installed didn't require this. Do the latest regulations always require isolation on the fuse box?
 
There absolutely has to be a means of isolation for any work.

However, there is also a "3m rule" where if the CU is less than 3,m from the supply cut-out and no specific risk of cable damage then you can rely on the CU isolation as enough for "the installation". However, if the distance is above 3m then there should be a switched-fuse or similar just after the meter so the sub-main cable supplying the CU can be isolated for any work, etc.
 
Can you upload some photos of the installation? It sounds like you need a proper EICR and that the electrician has been generous in giving the information for free.
 
Can you upload some photos of the installation? It sounds like you need a proper EICR and that the electrician has been generous in giving the information for free.
I had booked the electrician to do the EICR, but when he started testing he said we really should be changing the fuse boxes and do the full testing then. From what I've read and everything he's said, it all makes sense to make the installation safer and better. I just wanted to make sure I understood everything and what the general thoughts were on here. I'd rather not upload photos :)
 
I had booked the electrician to do the EICR, but when he started testing he said we really should be changing the fuse boxes and do the full testing then. From what I've read and everything he's said, it all makes sense to make the installation safer and better. I just wanted to make sure I understood everything and what the general thoughts were on here. I'd rather not upload photos :)
You might find it helpful to download the FREE best practise guide 4.
Not everyone doing EICR's understands the differences between it being safe, dangerous, potentially dangerous, not installed in accordance with latest regs, and not installed as per their personal preference.
(Nonetheless RCD technology is well worth having and fitting it was the first thing I did in my own home when I purchased it.)
 
I had booked the electrician to do the EICR, but when he started testing he said we really should be changing the fuse boxes and do the full testing then. From what I've read and everything he's said, it all makes sense to make the installation safer and better. I just wanted to make sure I understood everything and what the general thoughts were on here. I'd rather not upload photos :)
I would have though it is a good idea to do the testing before changing the board, as it means you can still leave the good circuits energised while doing any necessary work or maybe new circuits added.
 

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