Discuss Switch fed or feed to the light in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I'll use both though mainly loop through the switches, sometimes on rewires though for the ground floor lighting I'll go with the old everything back to a big JB method. :eek::)
 
junction box, buried under 2 ft. of itchy-poo and nobody except you knows where it is? YUK.
 
is that over or under the 4" of kingspan between floors, and will it be affected by the heat from the underfloor bedroom wet heating system?
 
I tend to do either, depends on the circuit routes. I prefer loop at the switch, easier to terminate, harder for the general public to zap themselves on imo.

I also tend to use 3 core for switch wires, n or p live at either point for gadgets, or an extra s live for modifications/variations.

@Dave OCD I also have been known to do the big ol' jb method, but only if there's a cupboard or similar to put it. I like my jbs like I like my women... not covered in insulation and hidden under floorboards. Pretty specific I suppose...
 
like I like my women... not covered in insulation and hidden under floorboards.

does that mean I've got to move the ex-wife from under the floor?
 
I prefer to feed at the switches, although i must say the area I work in when on repairs or renewing fittings the majority are fed at the lights. Like someone has mentioned when fitting tenants fancy light fittings all them wires can be a bit awkward at times
 
I often find that Sod's Law applies here.

For instance, when I'm installing additional smoke alarms in modern properties that have sheeted flooring and plasterboard walls throughout, neither of which the property owner wants damaged in any way, it is very rare to find that a loop-in system has been installed via ceiling lighting points. The obvious advantage with the ceiling loop-in method, is, of course, that the wiring for the alarm can be taken direct from the ceiling lighting point and fed through the ceiling void without any ceiling damage being incurred. But when the feeds are located at switch points, it is more often than not next to impossible to install wiring between the switch and the alarm without having to open up the adjacent wall and the ceiling, in which case the alarms would need to be installed on the wall rather than the ceiling.

Conversely, when the job is a light fitting changeover in older properties, I often find that a ceiling loop-in system is present. As other posters have pointed-out, it can be fiddly working at a height with a fancy light fitting and three pairs of 1.5 T&E. In this particular instance there is a distinct disadvantage and you end-up wishing that the feeds were at the switch rather than the light.

Both approaches or a combination thereof have advantages and disadvantages. In the end, it all comes down to what type of job you're doing and whether or not the law of Sod comes into play!
 
what i prefer doing with a fancy light fitting that is terrible to get 3 x T/E in is to fit a JB above the ceiling to handle the loop in/out (accessible from the light) and a single cable ( S/L, N & E) into the fitting.

That's what I prefer to do too. Saves time and hassle.
 
Been on some very old installations where a central JB was done with ceiling light T&E and switch T&E from each room was terminated into the one JB. earth conductor (when installed) was twisted under the JB with no sleeve on them. Oh the "good old days"
 
what i prefer doing with a fancy light fitting that is terrible to get 3 x T/E in is to fit a JB above the ceiling to handle the loop in/out (accessible from the light) and a single cable ( S/L, N & E) into the fitting.
I’ve had two recently that have been fed down the centre of a joist so that the pendant could be screwed to the joist with strength - Thanks, previous installer, but that hasn’t helped me one bit with the modern IKEA light fitting that has no room for terminations besides the joist integrity being compromised with a 25 mm hole.
 
it depends on how much chasing is involved, so on that basis I will use the loop in method at the lights or switches, or if its quicker I will use the old spider method, so there is only one cable at the lights and switches except in the case of 2ways always making the RB4 junction boxes accessible.
 

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