Which conduit holders for metal conduit?

[HappyHippyDad]

I am going to need to install a small amount of galvanised steel conduit, leading down to perhaps 4 sockets and a light switch. This is in a domestic premise. The customer wants the industrial type look and they want it looking very nice, they are happy to pay the price for this.

I have found 2 different types of wall holders and wondered if these are what are usually used, or if there are more options? Option 1 looks nicer but i don't thin it would work.

1. Brass Munsen Rings 22mm 5 Pack - Screwfix - https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/brass-munsen-rings-22mm-5-pack/8699V?kpid=8699V&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz6ShBhCMARIsAH9A0qUCFGWJoYE3Jy86ysR0qEStLGnHKSWH0jAEBEy5YAoRsVUqbJ84G3gaAsiREALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I realise the munsen ring is 22mm and for 22mm pipe, used for plumbing. Would this still work? I am not sure if pipe used for plumbing is measured the same as electrical conduit, I.e does 22mm mean the diameter of the pipe (as it would in electrical conduit) or the diameter of the hole? I have a feeling these rings would not fit sungly and therefore not work.

2. https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/...vmCi1fOLSbK9A6DUhD6zEeRSR2M6gy60aAlTUEALw_wcB

Cheers

 

[happysteve]

Distance saddles for the win

 

[pc1966]

The saddles are the correct item to use, but that look a bit crude compared to the plumbing ones which, I guess, are designed for viewing but would not hold the pipe correctly.

Also the right saddle keeps the pipe at the same spacing as typical accessories like conduit junction boxes and metal-clad socket boxes, etc.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Saddles do look a bit Council Car Park , but as above they bring the conduit just enough off the call to marry up nicely to the box and they have a degree of left to right flexibility when fixed to the wall.

I think you can get online galv P-clips for pipe

 

[westward10]

Stainless Steel Metric Conduit System Saddles & Munson Rings | Electrix

Electrix Stainless Steel Metric Conduit Lengths are considered the industry standard by many of the world's leading processing companies.

www.electrixinternational.com

 

[snowhead]

Distance Saddles, or to give them their correct name Hospital Saddles, so you could clea the wall behind them.
Munson rings will be loose on the conduit.

 

[westward10]

Distance Saddles, or to give them their correct name Hospital Saddles, so you could clea the wall behind them.
Munson rings will be loose on the conduit.

The ones in my link won't be.

 

[loz2754]

Distance Saddles, or to give them their correct name Hospital Saddles, so you could clea the wall behind them.
Munson rings will be loose on the conduit.

Distance saddles and hospital saddles are not the same thing. The difference is nicely illustrated in this picture:

 

[pc1966]

The ones in my link won't be.

No, but they might be expensive!

 

[pc1966]

Incidentally, if using nice clean stainless conduit is there any practical way to grip it for threading, etc, that wont leave much in the way of vice marks on the pipe?

 

[ipf]

Incidentally, if using nice clean stainless conduit is there any practical way to grip it for threading, etc, that wont leave much in the way of vice marks on the pipe?

Vice as tight as possible.

 

[Eddy Currents]

Incidentally, if using nice clean stainless conduit is there any practical way to grip it for threading, etc, that wont leave much in the way of vice marks on the pipe?

It must be tight so it doesn't slip which then causes the marking
Or you can do away with threading altogether and use the Conlok range

 

[davesparks]

I've given up on spacer bar saddles these days as the quality has gone downhill so far and only use distance saddles.

 

[davesparks]

Or you can do away with threading altogether and use the Conlok range

If the conduit is intended to be decorative or extremely light duty applications maybe. That stuff is no good in any application where the conduit system can be expected to receive any kind of impact.

 

[Eddy Currents]

If the conduit is intended to be decorative or extremely light duty applications maybe. That stuff is no good in any application where the conduit system can be expected to receive any kind of impact.

Not if installed correctly

It conforms to the same BS ES no as conventional threaded systems and has a longer lifespan due to it being fully galvanised whereas external use for threaded can degrade over time and the thread is normally the weak point

If it will receive that much impact then the saddles will give way before these accessories

You can also mix and match. Using the pre threaded end of tube on one end and conlok on the other

 

[davesparks]

Not if installed correctly

This has not been my experience.

It conforms to the same BS ES no as conventional threaded systems and has a longer lifespan due to it being fully galvanised whereas external use for threaded can degrade over time and the thread is normally the weak point

If installed correctly threaded conduit will last just fine externally.
I'm not sure that Conlok wouldnt allow water in at each joint though.

 

[mart spark]

This has not been my experience.


If installed correctly threaded conduit will last just fine externally.
I'm not sure that Conlok wouldnt allow water in at each joint though.

I believe if you want to maintain IP rating for protection against water ingress then some sealant i.e. silicon has to be used at the joint, however i could be wrong on that. In regards to what type of saddle to use how about the stainless steel clips by D Line?

 

[HappyHippyDad]

Thanks for all the replies everyone.

It looks like distance saddles may be the way to go, although I may offer the choice of the fancy munsen ones that @westward10 posted.

 

[nicebutdim]

It must be tight so it doesn't slip which then causes the marking
Or you can do away with threading altogether and use the Conlok range

I don't believe Conlok offer stainless steel accessories. I could be wrong, but can find only galv accessories within their range.

Not if installed correctly

It conforms to the same BS ES no as conventional threaded systems and has a longer lifespan due to it being fully galvanised whereas external use for threaded can degrade over time and the thread is normally the weak point

If it will receive that much impact then the saddles will give way before these accessories

You can also mix and match. Using the pre threaded end of tube on one end and conlok on the other

Conlok (according to Metpro website) conforms to BSEN61386-21:2004, which I believe has been superceded by BSEN61386-21:2021. I don't have a copy of either standard, but can't help wondering what stipulation it makes with regards to ingress of water. I've used Conlok on quite a few installations now and, while I find myself struggling to argue against its use for indoor installation, can't believe it would afford the same level of ingress protection as its threaded competitor.

There's no doubt that threads represent the weakest point in a conduit installation, but it's not common for conduit to fail at that point. If I fold scrap conduit it will often break at base of threads, but I don't believe this would be a common point of failure in normal service. The worst conduit I've come across was completely submerged and corroded to nothing in places, yet all threaded connections remained sound.

 

[pc1966]

I have seen the conlock stuff and while I can appreciate how easier it is to do (more so given I don't have my own conduit vice/bender...) I would not be very happy relying on the grub screw fixing to make the structure the CPC.