Wiring for New Electric Hob - 4 wires

[John White]

Brought a new hob Russell Hobbs (RH60EH402B) because the old one was cracked. New one seems to have four wires, but the old one only had 3. I think I need to pull out the oven to get access to the box that the wires feed into. Do you think I will I be able to connect the new hobs wires easily into this box?

 

[buzzlightyear]

seek a spark .

 

[John White]

You are right of course that probably is the best idea but I really wanted to learn how to do it myself.

 

[John White]

You are right of course that probably is the best idea but I really wanted to learn how to do it myself.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Can you repeat that

 

[Wilko]

Hi John, you've mentioned it has 4 wires so it's possibly set up so the load could be put across 2 phases on low current installations (more common elsewhere in Europe). The instruction manual should have a diagram for you to study, looking a bit like this. But I don't recommend you try "learning by doing" for your first cooker. It's important for safety to get the earth set up correctly to the appliance and prove that it's connected back to your main earth terminal, for example .

 

[littlespark]

Wilko beat me to it. I just found that instruction manual.

Its common with electric hobs to have these extra cables for other electrical systems as suggested.
I've just refitted an existing Beko hob into a new kitchen worktop that has a 6 core flex. Luckily they are all crimped into pairs so I know which is which.

 

[John White]

After spending half a day making the hole bigger in the worktop for the new hob, the thought of unscrewing the oven as well and messing around with that was not appealing. So I thought I would try connecting the old wire that I had disconnected from the old hob into the new hob (silly me)

Switched off the electricity for the whole house,

The new hob has four ports for the wires, Earth, L1, L2 and N.

Connected earth/blue/yellow cable into earth socket, brown into L2 and blue into N as per instruction manual. Manual showed black going into L1 but of course this was the old cable so that one was missing.

Probably not a great idea I know. Anyway the hob powered on, but I could only get heat from the two front rings heated up.

Have I damaged the hob? Would wiring it up properly really be that difficult?

 

[MDJ]

Very likely to be 3 feeds to the hob and a neutral, but it isn't really good practice to attempt it if you are unsure to be honest.

 

[littlespark]

Unscrewing the oven shouldn't be a huge job. 4 screws in the front maybe, and then it slides out the cabinet. Also power off for this.

If it can be unplugged or disconnected, lift it completely out of the way so you can get in to the hob supply cable.

You will need to connect the 4th cable there to bring on the other 2 rings.
DO NOT just bridge across from the brown in L1 to L2. The size of the individual cores of the cable supplied and already connected to the appliance is critical.

Also, did you mean Earth/GREEN/ yellow? not blue

 

[John White]

Thanks littlespark, yes I meant Earth/GREEN/ yellow

Great so I will probably get the oven out tomorrow and have a look at least. If I have to call an electrician at least that part is done.

Good to confirm the hob isn't damaged, thank you.

 

[telectrix]

After spending half a day making the hole bigger in the worktop for the new hob, the thought of unscrewing the oven as well and messing around with that was not appealing. So I thought I would try connecting the old wire that I had disconnected from the old hob into the new hob (silly me)

Switched off the electricity for the whole house,

The new hob has four ports for the wires, Earth, L1, L2 and N.

Connected earth/blue/yellow cable into earth socket, brown into L2 and blue into N as per instruction manual. Manual showed black going into L1 but of course this was the old cable so that one was missing.

Probably not a great idea I know. Anyway the hob powered on, but I could only get heat from the two front rings heated up.

Have I damaged the hob? Would wiring it up properly really be that difficult?

guess that as you have done it is almost right. with the connections as you have said,link L1 to L2, then try that. sounds like L1 feeds 2 rings and L2 feeds the other 2.

 

[littlespark]

Tel... I don't think he should just link L1 and L2 at the hob as the size of the cable may not be adequate to carry all 4 rings.

Replace the 4 core flex as that came supplied with the hob and connect both brown and black to L in the cooker point. (blue to neutral and G/Y to earth)

 

[telectrix]

i should have said, dependent on the ccc of whatever cable is there.

 

[littlespark]

It would probably be ok, Tel.... as the 3 core flex did supply the old hob, but we don't know without seeing it in the flesh.

 

[buzzlightyear]

line /brown .black/line. blue /neutral. green /bang .

 

[John White]

I tried removing the oven today and I could not find the connection point/box for the wires.I think it is behind a cupboard which I cannot seem to get access to without cutting/breaking part of the cupboard.

I think I managed to break the oven as it now turns on but there is no heat so well done to me for that. Fortunately it is really old and several things were already not working with it so was about to replace it anyway, just seems weird that it broke so easily I was very gentle with it.

Is there any safe way of connecting the old wire into the hob so all the rings work? If not, any clues as to how I can get access to the connection box without pulling my kitchen apart?



Picture of Old cable :

old hob cable.png - https://drive.google.com/open?id=1D3DTbCSAzJ9AJqUCllMYYA1vd9LqYqRf

Picture of new cable

new hob cable.jpg - https://drive.google.com/open?id=1I4H3YxhdaaW_FJ-6WM9KDcnSROWkdBdP

Thank you.

 

[buzzlightyear]

I think I managed to break the oven as it now turns on but there is no heat

ho. dear...never mind .you did try .post 2#

 

[John White]

I found the connection box/switch the old 3 wire cable for the hob is connected into :

The front panel switch was loose so I brought a new one (cooker control 45 AMP double pole switch with mains socket) I have wired up the new 4 wire cable into this, no mains connection yet, just did this so I could take a picture of how I think it should be wired so some one could confirm it's correct. You can see the two live cables black and brown/red fed into the L load port on the socket, I think this is what was suggested, does this look ok? :

 

[John White]

Why don't the pictures show?

 

[The_apprentice2.0]

They should usually come with a copper link?? (looks like a small section of busbar) ... if not as above

 

[buzzlightyear]

we do not give step by step guides .consult a local spark. and
be told .

 

[Markyd]

So...you have managed to connect the hob once and only two rings worked .....you have completely broken the oven which you said that BITS were not working anyway and now the front of the oven switch was loose and needed a new one........WHEN WILL YOU REALISE YOU NEED A SPARKY......WHEN YOU HEAR A BANG?....OR WORSE

 

[sewers1966]

Please make sure if its an induction hob that you have at least 50mm between the oven and hob Or it may cutout with both on at the same time due to heat

 

[John White]

It's not an induction hob. Thanks for all your help, I got everything working using the new cable and cooker point switch, I believe it is all safe and the old oven came back to life.

 

[Ffoeguk]

If this was a gas forum would this be happening? Who going to take the blame when all the help goes wrong.

 

[Gavin John Hyde]

Reminds me of my dad does this.. he has his own pub and went out and bought a fancy italian coffee machine like you get in costa, cafe nero etc..
calls me up asking what to do, as its got 4 wires! also needed a 40 amp circuit much like a cooker.

 

[Rpa07]

If this was a gas forum would this be happening? Who going to take the blame when all the help goes wrong.

Not me, I was in the library!

 

[Gerry Chandler]

guess that as you have done it is almost right. with the connections as you have said,link L1 to L2, then try that. sounds like L1 feeds 2 rings and L2 feeds the other 2.

I’ve got exactly the same with a new ceramic hob. With red to L2, Black yo N and earth to earth it leaves me with an L1 with no cable in. Advice elsewhere seems to be put a horseshoe connector / link cable between L1 and L2. Does that make sense?

 

[Philhill17]

After spending half a day making the hole bigger in the worktop for the new hob, the thought of unscrewing the oven as well and messing around with that was not appealing. So I thought I would try connecting the old wire that I had disconnected from the old hob into the new hob (silly me)

Switched off the electricity for the whole house,

The new hob has four ports for the wires, Earth, L1, L2 and N.

Connected earth/blue/yellow cable into earth socket, brown into L2 and blue into N as per instruction manual. Manual showed black going into L1 but of course this was the old cable so that one was missing.

Probably not a great idea I know. Anyway the hob powered on, but I could only get heat from the two front rings heated up.

Have I damaged the hob? Would wiring it up properly really be that difficult?

No it’s not damaged there’s no live feed to the rest of the hob it depends on cable size into the box and total power rating of the hob

 

[Timbo]

No it’s not damaged there’s no live feed to the rest of the hob it depends on cable size into the box and total power rating of the hob

I'm sure it's sorted by now, 2 years on!!?

 

[Micklemus 55NCD]

Brought a new hob Russell Hobbs (RH60EH402B) because the old one was cracked. New one seems to have four wires, but the old one only had 3. I think I need to pull out the oven to get access to the box that the wires feed into. Do you think I will I be able to connect the new hobs wires easily into this box?

The wiring diagram with a new Belling Ceramic hob could be better -a lot better. The wires that would have been connected to three phase are brown and black connected to 240 v AC they are connected to the live terminal = out load on the double pole isolator switch. The blue N wire connect as usual to Neutral out Load. The earth wire connects to earth as usual. A good earthing is required due to a fair load = approx 6 Kw.
I don't think I need to check with my lad =he's a sub station electrical engineer = heavy duty at 130 k..
How many commercial kitchens these ceramic hob producers hope to sell to god knows. Usually their hobs are gas fired with six rings or so! The mind boggles.