S
Silver6003
Hi there I'm working in a pizza take away doing the installation for it . Just recieved The kitchen appliances rundown and now planning my final kitchen sub circuits ...Got 1 coffee /cappacunio Machine where is rated a 3050 watts So divide that by 230v I get 13.2 Amps !! In my book That needs a separate supply and connected to a 20 amp DP switch backed up by a 16 Amp RCBO ...its going to be on a Three Phase board so all my final sub circuits will be protected by RCBO's . This is going to be in the less busy part of shop and atm there's only 1 ring circuit !!!! . However as luck would have it i've a 2.5 cable unused sitting in a single box that I can use to feed said machine ( just need a little diversion/extension of cable ) .
Any thoughts ? Would you guys just Plug it into the the ring ? In my mind that only leaves 19 amps for maximum load on the rest of my ring . This will be run to a high demand with other things like Toasters / kettles /sandwich makers . micro /at least 2 fridges etc
As rule of thumb if any loads exceed 13 amps then a 13 amp cartridge fuse will blow imo So to be safe I'm thinking my idea to be the best working practice . Thoughts ?
Which now brings me to my next point ...I've got an oven at 3100 watts that again exceeds 13 amps that IS SUPPLIED WITH A FLEX AND 13A plug ....Surely this must be wrong !!!! It encourages the general public to just plug it in to a socket and then only affords max 18.5 amps on a ring !!!! Has anyone else come across this ? . I only recently fitted an oven with the same rating 3100w and that stipulated that it had to be on a 16 amp supply So i put it on a DP switch and fed it with 2.5 with an 16 amp RCBO at the board ( it was an old hager board with no rcd ) . Mixed messages or what !!! Anyone else come across this ?
This is going to be a Pizza shop/restaurant. That oven is going to be on constantly during the day/eve ( its not the pizza oven that's 10.1 kw and I've got that under control Rating and cable wise ) Surely that 13 amp fuse in the plug is going to blow far quicker that it really should ? I'm again looking to run a separate supply and have it controlled on a 20 dp switch which in turn will be hard wired into a cooker outlet plate rather than a flex outlet . I would rather over componsate than be under !! Again any thoughts / input or maybe you've come across a similar situation . My real point is if an appliance is rated at over 13 amps then surely it has to be controlled by a 20 amp DP switch rather than a bog standard 13 amp cartridge plug fuse in a plug top plugged into a socket ...On a radial/ring or not . This is going to be a busy working kitchen and all appliances are going to be run flat out . Yes My main incomer will take it its 100 Amp Three phase So that's all covered
Cheers guys
Any thoughts ? Would you guys just Plug it into the the ring ? In my mind that only leaves 19 amps for maximum load on the rest of my ring . This will be run to a high demand with other things like Toasters / kettles /sandwich makers . micro /at least 2 fridges etc
As rule of thumb if any loads exceed 13 amps then a 13 amp cartridge fuse will blow imo So to be safe I'm thinking my idea to be the best working practice . Thoughts ?
Which now brings me to my next point ...I've got an oven at 3100 watts that again exceeds 13 amps that IS SUPPLIED WITH A FLEX AND 13A plug ....Surely this must be wrong !!!! It encourages the general public to just plug it in to a socket and then only affords max 18.5 amps on a ring !!!! Has anyone else come across this ? . I only recently fitted an oven with the same rating 3100w and that stipulated that it had to be on a 16 amp supply So i put it on a DP switch and fed it with 2.5 with an 16 amp RCBO at the board ( it was an old hager board with no rcd ) . Mixed messages or what !!! Anyone else come across this ?
This is going to be a Pizza shop/restaurant. That oven is going to be on constantly during the day/eve ( its not the pizza oven that's 10.1 kw and I've got that under control Rating and cable wise ) Surely that 13 amp fuse in the plug is going to blow far quicker that it really should ? I'm again looking to run a separate supply and have it controlled on a 20 dp switch which in turn will be hard wired into a cooker outlet plate rather than a flex outlet . I would rather over componsate than be under !! Again any thoughts / input or maybe you've come across a similar situation . My real point is if an appliance is rated at over 13 amps then surely it has to be controlled by a 20 amp DP switch rather than a bog standard 13 amp cartridge plug fuse in a plug top plugged into a socket ...On a radial/ring or not . This is going to be a busy working kitchen and all appliances are going to be run flat out . Yes My main incomer will take it its 100 Amp Three phase So that's all covered
Cheers guys