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I've heard it said many times that connector blocks are not allowed to extend cables inside DBs and whilst I agree it's not good practice, I've never found a regulation that specifically prohibits the use of connectors blocks. Does anyone know of a regulation number regarding this?
 
I've heard it said many times that connector blocks are not allowed to extend cables inside DBs and whilst I agree it's not good practice, I've never found a regulation that specifically prohibits the use of connectors blocks. Does anyone know of a regulation number regarding this?
A DB is full of screw-terminal connections already - can't see the problem with another one! Daz
 
I just twist together tape and move on.

Joke by the way I've used wago before inside when all other avenues exhausted and can't practically or financially be avoided
 
12p for a push-in splice connector 30 secs to fit. solder and heatshrink + time about £8. which is best for a budget?
 
12p for a push-in splice connector 30 secs to fit. solder and heatshrink + time about £8. which is best for a budget?
£8 will give 100g of solder and 11meters of heatshrink. that should last for a while. takes 2 minutes to do the joint if you have already hot iron.
 
time to plug iron in. search the van for solder, wait for it to warm up, solder the joint, then unsolder as you forgot to put the H/S on first, then get the heat gun from under the front seat where you forgot it was. sod it. i'm packed up and in the pub while youre waiting for your iron to cool down.
 
beaten to it. 32A and the beauty is that, as thery're in line. 1 conductor each end, they's neater than wagos. line products do them, as do amazon and ebay.

Ideal Spliceline? In-Line Push-In Wire Connector - Box 100 | eBay
Are they 14.27 quid each or is that for a packet of them?

**edit** sorry, ignore that I see it's a box of 100.

I usually ferrule and heat shrink, always found it most reliable, quick, cheap and easy plus it leaves a very low profile connection not much thicker than the wire itself.
 
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Are they 14.27 quid each or is that for a packet of them?

**edit** sorry, ignore that I see it's a box of 100.

I usually ferrule and heat shrink, always found it most reliable, quick, cheap and easy plus it leaves a very low profile connection not much thicker than the wire itself.
I suspect your definition of ferrule is somewhat different to ours then!
 
I suspect your definition of ferrule is somewhat different to ours then!
Not sure Dave, maybe a language thing, what do you guys call ferrules?
I was referring to these which are used with an indent crimper.

ferrule.jpg
 
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the tape is a joke yes?
No, what makes you think that? I use double sided tape to keep things neat inside j701's etc when using wagos for boilers too otherwise you end up with a mass of wagos exploding out of the box when you open it.

The stuff I use is a roll of the same foam tape that comes on the back of bodgeit trunking
 
The tape will just fall off the side wont it? I would have thought you would have been better with something with a sticky back thats slightly more adhesive than tape, but I guess that would make a mess on removal.
 
i use these if it's just 1 or 2 extensions indise the DB.

View attachment 30801
,

used exact same ideal connector on a job that was my surveillance visit for elecsa two weeks ago and he was more than happy with them inside the db.

Previous year I got picked up for using the same connector in a floor void and using heat shrink to encapsulate the whole joint - added a wago inline box around it and all good - interesting that ideal advertise them in an application with no secondary containment whatsoever though!
 
The tape will just fall off the side wont it? I would have thought you would have been better with something with a sticky back thats slightly more adhesive than tape, but I guess that would make a mess on removal.

Here's a couple in a dimmer, the original installers left it with floating connector blocks extending the earths from the earth tail pots. And the pyro tails were about 2' long where they had been in the old dimmer and they didn't bother to cut them down.
It also had 10mm line with a 6mm neutral for the supply! (16A)

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449706261.291179.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449706558.950063.jpg
 
the ideal in line connectors are much faster to install . no room for error, esp. in a tight space where you struggle getting crimpers in.
 
Relying on a spring, rather than screws, crimps and/or solder for a tight, low resistance, sound connection just seems wrong to me.

Think I must be a Grumpy Old Dinosaur :-(

How can I joint a 6mm?
 
Relying on a spring, rather than screws, crimps and/or solder for a tight, low resistance, sound connection just seems wrong to me.

Think I must be a Grumpy Old Dinosaur :-(

How can I joint a 6mm?

40A flimsy spring push connector. :) Coarse stranded as well as solid conductors are fine in these.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA173.html
 
I much prefer the piano key type connector rather the the push fit. It doesn't give me much confidence when the cable can easily twist inside such a connector (push-fit), they may well be OK under normal conditions, but I wonder how they perform under fault conditions?
 
I much prefer the piano key type connector rather the the push fit. It doesn't give me much confidence when the cable can easily twist inside such a connector (push-fit), they may well be OK under normal conditions, but I wonder how they perform under fault conditions?

Sounds like a job for the photonic induction guy ....... !
 
Yeah that's the one. Not a berk though I don't think, but he does put on a persona for his vids. Unless you're thinking of the Berk that shocks himself all the time ?
 

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