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Curing the floorboard in room and the cooker cable that runs through a notch in the joist was cut. Through the grey cable and the tips of the brown and blue wires. Just enough to see the copper core.

whats best to do in this situation as obviously I don’t want to replace the whole cable
 
Curing the floorboard in room and the cooker cable that runs through a notch in the joist was cut. Through the grey cable and the tips of the brown and blue wires. Just enough to see the copper core.

whats best to do in this situation as obviously I don’t want to replace the whole cable
is there any slack in the cable?
 
easiest solution, without cutting cable, would be to stripp back the outer sheath, wrap each conductor with some self-amalgamating tape over the cuts (several turns), then wrap the whole lot in some more tape so that the cloured cores are completely coverd. this assumes no damage to the copper core, in which case cutting and jointing would be required, if in doubt, get a local sparks to fix. whatever the case, isolate from supply before hand.
 
If you opt for a Joint Box (JB), and if it is not accessible the JB would need to be Maintenance Free (MF)
Is this type considered maintenance free? If not, why not?
 

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Urged! So I assume it’s the clamp type connections inside a wago box or similar? Can u get the clamp type for a 40amp
Wago connectors and the right box would be the right way to go, not sure if they make the size you rquire, try google and see what it says, I was thinking of a resin filled joint but I don't know it they constitute MF or not, good luck in your search.
 
Wago connectors and the right box would be the right way to go, not sure if they make the size you rquire, try google and see what it says, I was thinking of a resin filled joint but I don't know it they constitute MF or not, good luck in your search.
Ok so let’s go back to self almagat tape. What exact is it? It’s on description online non tacky? So how does it stick? What’s the difference between that and the normal electrical insulation tape
 
Self amalgamating tape does just that , the surfaces react with each other and form one continues moulded joint . You have less chance of any ingress of damp and other nasties , as opposed to insulation tape ; especially the cheap tat that is common now.
 
Self amalgamating tape does just that , the surfaces react with each other and form one continues moulded joint . You have less chance of any ingress of damp and other nasties , as opposed to insulation tape ; especially the cheap tat that is common now.
Couldn't have put it better.
 
Self amalgamating tape stretches and has a backing tape which has to be removed. When you apply it you stretch it until it is about half its width and wrap it around the conductor. The tape combines with its self to be one rubbery blob that cant be unwrapped (self amalgamating) finish with two layers of good quality insulation tape applied with a slight stretch.
 
And the tape is defiantly okay for 42amps cooker cable?
Bo I think that what DPG means is that the insulation values of the tape will be sufficient, NOT the electrical connection or termination method, the tape has little to do with the electrical connections , just the insulation values. I feel you are getting out of your depth, with this.
 
I should have put a few more words into my post Pete!
[automerge]1578674131[/automerge]
Self amalgamating tape won't start coming unwrapped over the years either like insulating tape often does x

Just realised that I put an 'x' on the end of my post. I'm not usually that forward, but it's Friday so not to worry eh.
 
Just to clarify, as mentioned in post #4, the tape option is only suitable as long as the copper in the cable has not been damaged.
 
Just to clarify, as mentioned in post #4, the tape option is only suitable as long as the copper in the cable has not been damaged.
Yeah the copper is soggy exposed but 100 percent no nicks. Not even a scratch. I’m gonna use the tape. But just wondering.
Just wondering. The normal junction boxes aren’t Maintenance Free because of the screws? Incase they work loose. Isn’t that what’s loctite screwlock is for? Lol lol ?
 
Yeah the copper is soggy exposed but 100 percent no nicks. Not even a scratch. I’m gonna use the tape. But just wondering.
Just wondering. The normal junction boxes aren’t Maintenance Free because of the screws? Incase they work loose. Isn’t that what’s loctite screwlock is for? Lol lol ?
No it isn't, don't try and be flippant with electrical safety, you could be on the recievng end of a dangerous occurcene and believe it aint funny.
 
Yeah the copper is soggy exposed but 100 percent no nicks. Not even a scratch. I’m gonna use the tape. But just wondering.
Just wondering. The normal junction boxes aren’t Maintenance Free because of the screws? Incase they work loose. Isn’t that what’s loctite screwlock is for? Lol lol ?
Even Loctight is not foolproof lol.
 
wago do a 40A push-in connector that takes 6mm cable. cooker will never pull 40A as long as it,s got a door that opens.
 
There is no need for tape, either self amalgamating or insulation tape. Use a standard 30a JB, carefully strip back the outer sheath just enough so that the cores will pass through the 3 terminals, do not cut the cores, just clamp them in the terminals. Make sure the sheath just enters both entries of the JB so no basic insulation is exposed. Best to fix the JB to a batten under the floor, and secure the cable either side of the box with a clip or two. As the cores are not cut this is not a joint and so does not need to be maintenance free, it is simply an enclosure. The bare cpc could be taped if you feel the need, I wouldnt worry.
 
How would one fit a terminal box over wires that haven’t been cut. That just confused the ---- out of me ?
you take the screws right out of the terminals then slot the conductors in. then replace screws.
 
and there's no need for cable restraints as the uncut cable cannot pull out of the terminals.
 
should be more careful then. o_O o_O o_O. use a stanley or electricians knife to cut along the cable central, i line with the earth. then tease sheath away from conductors and cut away. try not to nick the inner insulation . it' won't hurt like a finger but could be dangerous.
 

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