Discuss Drilled through cable in wall, can I fix? (Photo) in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

This is obviously a bigger company because of the VAT, you could try a quote from a more independent electrician and stipulate that you require a maintenance free joint in a cable you drilled. May be a less expensive mistake to put right.
 
Just to add. It's not really an ideal wall for a shelf because of the cavity but if you intend to just use the plasterboard, check 'ultimate handiman' on YouTube with his reviews on plasterboard fixings.
It would be a bit of a windup as you wouldn't have needed to drill so deep and wouldn't have blown the cable! Sorry!
 
Any junction to be made in the cable would need to be maintenance free and depending on the space between the plasterboard and the wall it is likely that a maintenance free junction box would not fit, also the two cable ends would not reach sufficiently into the terminals.
If there is a switch directly below then it should be possible to draw up another cable from the switch and then joint the cable with enough slack to allow a good connection. However an alternative to a junction box would be needed to fit the space.
The quote you have sounds more like they will be replacing the entire cable run from switch to (presumably) cooker hood.
 
Because the pads down here are so expensive, we have to survive on dripping and dirty water. I draw a line at Paul Masson plonk though :)
what's wrong with paul masson red? wine is OK and if you drink it in bed, you can use the bottle as a pi$$pot after. also useful as a piggy bank for £2 coins ( assuming you have emptied the pi$$ first ).
 
Any junction to be made in the cable would need to be maintenance free and depending on the space between the plasterboard and the wall it is likely that a maintenance free junction box would not fit, also the two cable ends would not reach sufficiently into the terminals.
If there is a switch directly below then it should be possible to draw up another cable from the switch and then joint the cable with enough slack to allow a good connection. However an alternative to a junction box would be needed to fit the space.
The quote you have sounds more like they will be replacing the entire cable run from switch to (presumably) cooker hood.
Crimp and heat shrink sleeve. Last resort jointing it though, i'd be wanting to run a new cable.
 
All this needs is a simple crimp in the wall, i wouldn't be messing around replacing the whole cable. £120 is a bit steep for what is a 30 minute job, i reckon more like £70-85 seems more fair.
 
what's wrong with paul masson red? wine is OK and if you drink it in bed, you can use the bottle as a pi$$pot after. also useful as a piggy bank for £2 coins ( assuming you have emptied the pi$$ first ).
Its a poor French wine made in America, enough said. Bit like Coca Cola made in France.

Much better off drinking Guinness brewed in London, ohh no that got stopped :)
OP put your hand in your wallet, we all make expensive mistakes sometimes, forgive and forget.
 
All this needs is a simple crimp in the wall, i wouldn't be messing around replacing the whole cable. £120 is a bit steep for what is a 30 minute job, i reckon more like £70-85 seems more fair.

Replacing the cable is the best option where possible, any joint is a potential point of failure.
But if a joint is the best option then soldering would be better than a crimp on solid conductors.
 
Is there any other connection I could make that would be suitable? What about wago connectors? Or junction box in plastic casing?

That depends on your level of experience and competence to carry out the task. An improperly made connection will be susceptible to overheating under load resulting in a fire.
Do you own suitable test equipment to carry out dead and live testing of the circuit?
 
Cables correctly terminated using wago's inside a grey wago box with a tie wrap around the enclosure, is regarded as a maintenence free connection method. It would therefore comply if done properly.
Only connection methods that are marked as maintenence free (MF), should be used if it is within the wall. Hager also do a (MF) junction box.
 
Cables correctly terminated using wago's inside a grey wago box with a tie wrap around the enclosure, is regarded as a maintenence free connection method. It would therefore comply if done properly.
Only connection methods that are marked as maintenence free (MF), should be used if it is within the wall. Hager also do a (MF) junction box.
That's a Hager 32amp in the picture above posted by Taylor
 
Yep agree - only spotted it after pressing the send button for my previous reply.

Have used both the wago and the hager methods and much prefer the wago IF there's enough slack in the cables!
Unfortunately the small in-line wago boxes are not MF for some reason?
 
quick squirt of expanding foam... it's instant MF.
 
34p05s1.jpg


Drilled through cable in kitchen wall, tripped the fuse box. Switched back on and everything works apart from the cooker hood.

I've called electrician and explained, given me a quote of £120 plus VAT. Is that reasonable?

Is this something I can fix? If so, how? I have basic electrical skills (i.e I can install a new light fitting, install a dimmer switch, change a plug, etc...!)
 

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