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I don't get it, if you disconnect the earth to get a true Ze the you test on the incoming earth cable, not the dis board where he clipped his crock clip.

also do those newer meggers do P-P IPF nowadays, I was waiting for the bang. Day one of the 2391 course and our tutor said never ever test phase to phase whilst doing IPF with a single phase tester if you still want eyebrows. I've always doubled the highest single phase reading.
 
I don't get it, if you disconnect the earth to get a true Ze the you test on the incoming earth cable, not the dis board where he clipped his crock clip.

also do those newer meggers do P-P IPF nowadays, I was waiting for the bang. Day one of the 2391 course and our tutor said never ever test phase to phase whilst doing IPF with a single phase tester if you still want eyebrows. I've always doubled the highest single phase reading.
I didn't look at the video, i just replied to the “why would anyone disconnect the main earth”.

Its Dels attempt to do PSCC.
He's not interested in PEFC.
 
I don't get it, if you disconnect the earth to get a true Ze the you test on the incoming earth cable, not the dis board where he clipped his crock clip.

also do those newer meggers do P-P IPF nowadays, I was waiting for the bang. Day one of the 2391 course and our tutor said never ever test phase to phase whilst doing IPF with a single phase tester if you still want eyebrows. I've always doubled the highest single phase reading.
I looked at the vid a few times, the main TP switch was in off position thats good should of locked it off, now this is the confusing bit Del disconnected the main earth (to the DB) lead away from the MET block because multiple bonds on the block, but still had his clips on it in the DB with all earths still connected picking up other paths. IMO this was not a true Ze. He should of taken the main earth lead out of the MET block coming from the cutout and put his clip on that.
 
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also do those newer meggers do P-P IPF nowadays, I was waiting for the bang. Day one of the 2391 course and our tutor said never ever test phase to phase whilst doing IPF with a single phase tester if you still want eyebrows. I've always doubled the highest single phase reading.

As far as I know all of the megger, and most other name brand, testers have done loop tests at 415V for a long time.

I've certainly always tested phase to phase with both my megger MFT and megger high resolution loop tester.

If anyone is manufacturing a tester which would fail catastrophically if connected phase to phase then it is not fit to be on the market. Even if it can't test at that voltage it should be able to handle being connected to it and at worst be able to safely contain any failure which occurs due to it.
 
also do those newer meggers do P-P IPF nowadays, I was waiting for the bang. Day one of the 2391 course and our tutor said never ever test phase to phase whilst doing IPF with a single phase tester if you still want eyebrows
Meggers from 15xx onwards will in all cases handle phase to phase on high-current. The 15xx gets very upset if you accidentally select no-trip and connect phase to phase. The manual says it isn't 'supported' but doesn't talk about the undocumented internal fuse! The 17xx onwards just beeps.

It can be the case (not wishing to cast general aspersions) that college tutors have been out of the day-to-day game for a while and not been exposed to more recent equipment. He is right that you could once easily break a tester doing this:
1690362719489.png


By the time Robin became Kewtech (in simple terms), the KT63 doesn't blow up but also doesn't handle phase to phase.

So in general, if you have a Megger, crack on!
 
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Meggers from 15xx onwards will in all cases handle phase to phase on high-current. The 15xx gets very upset if you accidentally select no-trip and connect phase to phase. The manual says it isn't 'supported' but doesn't talk about the undocumented internal fuse! The 17xx onwards just beeps.

It can be the case (not wishing to cast general aspersions) that college tutors have been out of the day-to-day game for a while and not been exposed to more recent equipment. He is right that you could once easily break a tester doing this:
View attachment 109577

By the time Robin became Kewtech (in simple terms), the KT63 doesn't blow up but also doesn't handle phase to phase.

So in general, if you have a Megger, crack on!
It was in 1999 I did my 2391 so he was probably correct at the time. I've never had one of the more posey meters (fluke/megger etc) and just had something cheap and functional, I currently have a KT63 and before that I had a Unitest one which I've still got in the van as a backup, 20 years old and still works perfect.

Beha-0100-Plus-9073.png


Beha-0100-Plus-9073.png
 
Unless there was a bit of editing in the video he seemed to be testing the socket under the sink with no fuse in the spur... in fact the client actually says at the start.. "I took out the fuse"!!

That'll be £500 an hour sir.
 
Unless there was a bit of editing in the video he seemed to be testing the socket under the sink with no fuse in the spur... in fact the client actually says at the start.. "I took out the fuse"!!
Ahh yeah..... mmmm cool.
 
I see he's just left the customer to continually reset the tripping RCD 'until they can get someone to sort the dishwasher out'. Solid plan.
To be fair this is possibly the only option Del had left given he didn't want to attempt dragging the dishwasher out himelf
 
To be fair this is possibly the only option Del had left given he didn't want to attempt dragging the dishwasher out himelf
It's not a fix though. He's just pitched up, done nowt except look in the FCU and then left. That'll be £100 please. It's not like it's a washing machine, it's a dishwasher. My wife can move ours.
 
I see he's just left the customer to continually reset the tripping RCD 'until they can get someone to sort the dishwasher out'. Solid plan.
was it the customer or Dels apprentice?!! he seemed to be doing most of the work!
someone should explain to Del how a SFS works, you dont have to unwire it to disconnect the load...
 
@goasis

You got me thinking about this and, while I don't have access to a copy of BS1363, it seems as though it requires switched fuse spurs to isolate both poles. Unless this is incorrect, only a very old one could switch line only.

If I can find a spare £276 down the side of the settee, I'll get a copy of BS1363-4 and clear this up 😂
 
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Without digging out the regs books, can anyone comment on the RCD socket he removed and replaced with a regular socket? Isn't a socket there full stop against regs since it's directly over a sink?
 
Without digging out the regs books, can anyone comment on the RCD socket he removed and replaced with a regular socket? Isn't a socket there full stop against regs since it's directly over a sink?
It may have been added in at some point, and if there's no RCD protection in the consumer unit, is a way to provide RCD protection compliance for the new work. Let's hope not though cos del just removed it....
 
It may have been added in at some point, and if there's no RCD protection in the consumer unit, is a way to provide RCD protection compliance for the new work. Let's hope not though cos del just removed it....
I just don't understand why, even if there is RCD protection at the board, you'd remove that socket for no reason, given where it is. I thought all sockets had to be at least 300mm away from the edge of a sink but not 100% sure of the regs on this
 
I just don't understand why, even if there is RCD protection at the board, you'd remove that socket for no reason, given where it is. I thought all sockets had to be at least 300mm away from the edge of a sink but not 100% sure of the regs on this
I think the 300mm rule was one one of the older Regs that no longer applies anymore. I have seen pop up sockets fitted in brand new kitchens right next to a new sink way closer than 300mm
 
I just don't understand why, even if there is RCD protection at the board, you'd remove that socket for no reason, given where it is. I thought all sockets had to be at least 300mm away from the edge of a sink but not 100% sure of the regs on this
If memory serves me correctly it stated in the electrician's guide to the building regs that sockets should be at least 300mm from he edge of the sink's basin
 

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