I need Help : Cutting 152mm Hole in to Drywall

[AngelLaHash]

im not sure where to post this.. and I need help
[ I posted here because i guess Heating systems may need a hole this big , and this is the only only site i've had that has been positive reaction to a problem ]

my Work (who dont dam help just get "JUST GET IT DONE" ) want me to drill a 152mm hole in the Ceiling for a Air Vent in a Bathroom.

They have given me a 152mm Hole saw and MAKITA DHP484Z 18V LXT BRUSHLESS 2-SPEED COMBI Drill
Its chucked me off the step up a few times.
Also tried to cut the holes while the Drywall is on the Floor and then put up but it just Agressive and i am black and blue over my hands
the Hole Saw clogs up quick and stops forcing the Drill to nearly pull my elbow out
if i dont have it pressed down it wobbles a lot and scatches outside the 152mm Area
some times it makes the Center hole bigger again wonders the Hole Saw then
Also have snapped one Center Drill bit so far.
[ NB i call it Drywall but it feels and Acts like Fiber Cardboard Mushed up together .. not a Gypsum dust feel to it ]


I have no idea what to do and its is Hurting me a lot, i've screamed at my manager .. maybe on the edge of being Fired (if not being given some of the worse jobs so i will just quick and their problem goes away) When i complained about how Dangous it is the first time, my Manager told me to get my apprentices to do it .. im not putting anyone else in danager if i cant do it...

I need a better system, worse case i buy things myself and SHAME them (brought my own Screws in before because they didnt have any long enough and it stopped the job) Million Pound company with ZERO budget

Did find this but i cant hold the Drill close to my body due to the Hole being in the middle of the board......
Just wonder if i stood it up to be level with me and Drill in to it AND get a Hand Grip out (non of the drills have one on) maybe then it will be a bit more stable

 

[westward10]

I assume it has the centering drill bit fitted this should stop it drifting.
Do not put too much pressure on it let the saw cut without forcing it.

 

[James]

If the torque is twisting you to the point of pain or chucking you off the steps, can’t you turn down the max torque on the drill? Often it is a coller near the chuck.

 

[loz2754]

If it's a 2 speed drill make sure it's on the lowest setting.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Draw a 152mm circle on the board with a compass (or improvised alternative), then cut it out with a jab saw.

 

[davesparks]

If it's a 2 speed drill make sure it's on the lowest setting.

Not sure about that, putting it into the lower gear increases the torque output and the OP is already struggling to hold the drill against the torque.

Higher gear and low speed may be more suitable.

 

[pc1966]

I found my Milwaukee battery drill has an electronic torque limiter, not a mechanical clutch, and when using a hole saw on a plastic duct box it would jam at times and the inertial of the rotor pull it from my hands. Using the clamp-on side handle helped, as did gloves to protect my knuckles a bit, but I really wished for a slipping clutch like my old (but rather feeble) Makita drill has.

 

[loz2754]

Not sure about that, putting it into the lower gear increases the torque output and the OP is already struggling to hold the drill against the torque.

Higher gear and low speed may be more suitable.

That's true, but to maintain a low speed using a variable speed trigger is next to impossible. Using a higher speed will wear out the teeth on the holesaw.
Low gear, and "torque" rather than "drill" setting, should get the job done.
Or, as suggested, try a different method. Perhaps a jigsaw even.

If your employer refuses to provide appropriate tools for the job to be done safely, refuse to do the job.

 

[FatAlan]

Do you mean a standard skimmed plasterboard ceiling? How thick is the plasterboard. I take it you haven’t hit a joist? As others have said, don’t force it, just use a small amount of pressure.

 

[SJD]

Do you mean a standard skimmed plasterboard ceiling? How thick is the plasterboard. I take it you haven’t hit a joist? As others have said, don’t force it, just use a small amount of pressure.

A standard plasterboard ceiling should take a minute or two at most and not be that difficult, so long as there are still some teeth left on the holesaw!

So I'd also wonder if there is something in the way - joist, noggin, steel, water tank ... ? I'd have drilled a 6mm pilot hole and checked in the loft that you have clearance for the large hole.