Integrated LED Downlights versus standard GU10 fittings

[Piratepete]

Hi Guys
I have a kitchen downlight job -10 LED units, no dimmer required. Roof space above (bungalow), with about 3 layers of insulation including polystyrene balls and stuff you can't make a hole in.

I've priced for a JCC GU10 fitting (Part B,C and E compliant), GU10 LED and an Insulation Guard(LEDs could be replaced by halogen bulbs) total £21 +VAT. (Shopping around I can knock a couple of quid off this).

1. If I use Integrated LED fittings like the JCC FGLED3 (£15 + VAT) do I still need an insulation guard, due to the low wattage?

2. Do I have to replace the complete fitting if the LED packs up?

3 . Anyone used these? Any problems?

It's Saturday, I need to order, and JCC's website doesn't seem to have the answers to QQ 1 and 2, and the wholesaler's closed.:20:

Cheers

Pete

 

[telectrix]

hi guys
i have a kitchen downlight job -10 led units, no dimmer required. Roof space above (bungalow), with about 3 layers of insulation including polystyrene balls and stuff you can't make a hole in.

I've priced for a jcc gu10 fitting (part b,c and e compliant), gu10 led and an insulation guard(leds could be replaced by halogen bulbs) total £21 +vat. (shopping around i can knock a couple of quid off this).

1. If i use integrated led fittings like the jcc fgled3 (£15 + vat) do i still need an insulation guard, due to the low wattage? no

2. Do i have to replace the complete fitting if the led packs up? yes

3 . Anyone used these? Any problems? not used, but good reports

it's saturday, i need to order, and jcc's website doesn't seem to have the answers to qq 1 and 2, and the wholesaler's closed.:20:

Cheers

pete

comments above.

 

[Guitarist]

LED units don't generate much heat, but the drivers do still need an air-gap around them to maximise the lifespan; Manufacturers instructions will tell you how much. I've seen plantpots used to keep insulation off, along with plasterboard boxes. As it's a loft though, you may get away with simply moving the insulation away and maybe screwing a couple of battens across either side of the unit to stop it migrating back.
Whatever you do, keep all cabling away from the polystyrene balls, as they will leech the plasticiser out of the PVC.

 

[telectrix]

Whatever you do, keep all cabling away from the polystyrene balls, as they will leech the plasticiser out of the PVC.

not if the balls are <25 years old. the modern balls are OK.

 

[Guitarist]

Whatever you do, keep all cabling away from the polystyrene balls, as they will leech the plasticiser out of the PVC.

not if the balls are <25 years old. the modern balls are OK.

I stand corrected then. Didn't realise they had used balls in the last 25 years

 

[telectrix]

not certain about it, but there's been a thread or 2 about the fact that cavityt wall insulation uses non detrimental balls since about mid 80's. not sure if they still use balls in attics.

 

[Farmelectrics]

Not seen balls in attics in my time

 

[Guitarist]

I often see them about an inch deep, covered in a few inches of fibreglass in lofts built around the early 80's in this area. Not sure whether they are PVC-eaters or not though, so never take the chance.

 

[mtomkins]

Adding to the first thread, what would be the benefits of having an integrated LED downlight rather than buying an empty shell of a downlight and adding an LED lamp?
From what I can see, this would be the sensible option as it adds flexibilty and is the cheaper option. So I must be missing something i think

 

[Octopus]

Adding to the first thread, what would be the benefits of having an integrated LED downlight rather than buying an empty shell of a downlight and adding an LED lamp?
From what I can see, this would be the sensible option as it adds flexibilty and is the cheaper option. So I must be missing something i think

Integrated units such as JCC come with a 10 year warranty if installed by a registered installer.......and are registered on the JCC system