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Hi I'm looking for a bit of advice regarding my oven plug socket. I thought my oven had packed in as it cut out, no heat, no fan, no clock display basically no power at all. I decided to replace it and had it removed to find the plug had melted. Can any one tell me if it's because the socket is located directly behind the oven? and should the socket be moved? 20180928_214634.jpg 20180928_214634.jpg 20180928_103019.jpg

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20180928_102156.jpg
 
Most likely a poor connection on the fuse or on the live wire where it was connected in the plug.

Cut the cable just below the old plug, strip the cable again and replace both the plug and the wall socket. If you just replace the plug there's a high probability it will burn again.
 
Fahrenheit??..... Not to be used here, unless you are spraying it on your bod, so the rampant totty jump on you more...
we are Brexit. Fahrenheit, yards, poles, chains, furlongs, pounds, ounces, tons. 7/029 and ft.lbs. so THERE. and there's acres of foolscap awaiting scribbling on.
 
You will need to get an electrician to replace the socket on the wall behind the oven but I would definitely get them to look at the rating of the oven as well to make sure that it is suitable to be used on a plug.

It may be a loose connection as Marvo and some others have said but it could also be that the oven needs to be on it's own circuit, the electrician will advise on this.
 
One of the well know kitchen suppliers now have a label on the oven flex informing not to fit a plug to it.
Most of us will have been to this scenario.
 
3 issues here:

low quality socket and connections
low quality plug and connections
oven too close to plug - ovens are getting bigger, so placing a socket directly behind an oven is never a good idea, never mind not being able to isolate it
 
space being the critical issue here. too tight means oven won't fit flush. end of the day, space is the final frontier. live long and prosper. warp factor 9 Scotty.
 
Don’t forget the ‘fake fuse’ debacle acting as a miniature one bar fire inside of the ‘plug top’ (just for George!).
The heat production on a 2 hour slow cooked beef joint coupled with poor connections . . .
Break the fuse and seek the silica sand!
(Starting to sound like @buzzlightyear again!)
 
Looking carefully at the image, the cross-section of the white cable, and the permanent obtuse angle bend followed shortly by a U bend in the cable, suggest to me the connection has been made in solid T&E - I'd guess 2.5mm2.

Whatever. The way-ahead is to get the oven connected properly according to its power demand by an electrician and for the oven to be tested too.
 
Why Would that be @123? - you would have less jointing terminations and less metallic contacts.
 
Hmm.. a new build?
Shot in the dark, but would the developers name be P..RS..M..N by any chance?

It does seem strange that a rewirable plugtop (see, I do it too) has been used. Normally if an oven can run off a 13A socket, the plugtop is moulded onto the flex. (cannot be removed)
Somewhere on the oven there will be a rating plate or sticker. Look for kW, and let us know what it says.
The plate could be on the back of the oven, and the sticker possibly inside the cavity.
Will also be listed on the instruction manual, but if all else fails.... the make and model number of the oven. We can google the rating.
 
Hmm.. a new build?
Shot in the dark, but would the developers name be P..RS..M..N by any chance?

It does seem strange that a rewirable plugtop (see, I do it too) has been used. Normally if an oven can run off a 13A socket, the plugtop is moulded onto the flex. (cannot be removed)
Somewhere on the oven there will be a rating plate or sticker. Look for kW, and let us know what it says.
The plate could be on the back of the oven, and the sticker possibly inside the cavity.
Will also be listed on the instruction manual, but if all else fails.... the make and model number of the oven. We can google the rating.

Is this the info your looking for?

I'm really concerned that if it's been installed incorrectly and dangerously that it won't just be my property!! and with the socket being directly next to gas pipe feel that we were lucky and the outcome of this could of been a lot worse.

The builder is sending out an electrician on Tue but its great just to get another opinion on it.

20180930_121657.jpg
 
Is this the info your looking for?

I'm really concerned that if it's been installed incorrectly and dangerously that it won't just be my property!! and with the socket being directly next to gas pipe feel that we were lucky and the outcome of this could of been a lot worse.

The builder is sending out an electrician on Tue but its great just to get another opinion on it.

View attachment 44576
that rating shows that the oven is a 10A load, but the 10A will not be continuous due to the stat cutting out on temperature. should be fine on a 13A BS1363 plug/socket as long as both are of good quality and the terminations are sound.
 
Is this the info your looking for?

I'm really concerned that if it's been installed incorrectly and dangerously that it won't just be my property!! and with the socket being directly next to gas pipe feel that we were lucky and the outcome of this could of been a lot worse.

The builder is sending out an electrician on Tue but its great just to get another opinion on it.

View attachment 44576
There's nothing glaringly unsafe about the arrangement you have but I think getting a sparky to cast his beady eye over it is a good thing. Replacing the plug is easy but replacing the socket is more difficult, the wiring behind it might need minor repairs as well so not really a DIY job. It would also be good to have a quick test done on the circuit and a quick inspect of the general installation.
 
See my #19 - OP could you confirm whether the cable into the plug and oven is 'stiff' or flexible like on an say electric kettle. I suspect the wrong type of cable has been used - stiff.

Could you take off the top of the plug and send us a picture of the innards? (I guess the cpc will not be sleeved/insulated).
 
Last edited:
Why Would that be @123? - you would have less jointing terminations and less metallic contacts.
I'm never done replacing FCU's that have gone faulty. Burnt out at the fuse part, always seems to be the case if it's running anywhere near 2kW or over they don't last.
 

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