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is this acceptable?

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LankyWill

Did some work for a friend and want to know if i did it right. As in regs compliant. I came off an existing lighting circuit to a sw fused spur. I used a 3A fuse to stop nuisance tripping. All the bends are done by hand and there was previously no conduit so i altered previous work. I sealed the all holes with silicone and made sure the connections were bomb tight. Im only newly qualified and did this off my own back. Any advice/ideas image5-1.jpegimage4-1.jpegimage3-1.jpegimage2-1.jpegimage1-1.jpegimage6-1.jpeg would be nice.
 
he's asking opinions as he's newly qualified. probably a bit unsure now he';s out in the real world.
 
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Not sure how your 3A fuse will stop nuisance tripping and the black stop box on white looks fancy :) , bit of flex on the outside bit to the light would look tidier and the grey t & e will go brittle eventually. Just my opinions looks tidy enough.
 
Not sure how your 3A fuse will stop nuisance tripping and the black stop box on white looks fancy :) , bit of flex on the outside bit to the light would look tidier and the grey t & e will go brittle eventually. Just my opinions looks tidy enough.
Hard to tell from the photos, but if it is T&E to the fixture that'd ruin it for me.
 
Did some work for a friend and want to know if i did it right. As in regs compliant. .
Forgive the tone mate (because I don't want to sound like I'm having a go at you because I've no reason to) but what does your regs book say?
Tidy looking job, you've obviously got some skill. In time you'll have confidence too.
 
Not sure how your 3A fuse will stop nuisance tripping and the black stop box on white looks fancy , bit of flex on the outside bit to the light would look tidier and the grey t & e will go brittle eventually. Just my opinions looks tidy enough.


Yeah i ran out of white end boxes and had a black one spare so i thought i would save him a few bob :). Wrong terminology, i meant it will blow the fuse as oppose to mcb, the last thing you want is all the lights going off for a stray cat. Yeah nice thought on the flex would look better, i will pop round and connector block out that 1mm inside the 2 way conduit box.

Thanks for the advice, any helps as i am still learning new things day to day.
 
In the first picture you could have put a set in where the pipe drops back onto the blockwork.

And the cable to the light looks suspiciously like grey T&E instead of the UV resistant cable which is required externally.
 
Looks neat mate,as said,3A may stop nuisance overloading,but not tripping,have used grey 4 core UV resistant machine cable in the past,so,benefit of doubt given :icon12: Myself,i would have made big efforts not to run conduit at front of a property,but only you know the situation.Picky,arent we? Read Aesops' fable regarding the Gods design of a perfect man...explains everything :conehead:
 
Looks neat mate,as said,3A may stop nuisance overloading,but not tripping,have used grey 4 core UV resistant machine cable in the past,so,benefit of doubt given :icon12: Myself,i would have made big efforts not to run conduit at front of a property,but only you know the situation.Picky,arent we? Read Aesops' fable regarding the Gods design of a perfect man...explains everything :conehead:
surely when refers to avoiding nuisance tripping,he is referring to an instance where a fault will take the 3A fuse out before it takes the 6A circuit breaker out? It used to be called discrimination but I believe that term was outlawed.
 
Yeah I'm swapping the te at the front for flex later, when I get my van back from service. I couldn't go into the back of the fitting due to the steel support that runs across the top of the garage.
 
Take the flex you are proposing to fit instead of the twin n earth to the first conduit box inside and make the joint there.
Then invest in an sds and long drill bits, so you can eliminate external conduit work in future.
What you have done is very tidy though.
 
Just ensure you take above advise and avoid plastic conduit on external walls in future, in summer the temperature rise can buckle fixed conduit and a neat job becomes unsightly, expansion couplers can be used but they tend to have a poor IP rating and those that do have good one don't last a few yrs before breaking down. The box that is over your cable coming out from the garage is prone to water ingress unless you sealed it at the rear and where the conduit is plugged in at the top....

Just heads up opinions, if not in direct sunlight the expansion will be minimal in this case.
 
Hmm. The outside looks ok except the T+E which you are going to sort. As for the inside....
Pic 1 conduit looks horrible - Why not double set it so it looks level and tidy ? Looks like you used 1 saddle for that run too. You could have even kicked the conduit out near the top of the wall and run it in a straight line on the ceiling with a final right angle down to the box.
Pic 3 The spacing of the saddles looks wrong/horrible to close to the switches and bends. (But you are only following the other conduit drops which already have badly spaced saddles so you were kind of restricted.)
You form your own bends then ruin it by using an inspection 90....just don't look right.
Lack of saddles and badly spaced...Sorry bud if this comes over negative but if you are just starting out I am more of the camp that likes to point out the faults rather than hope you get better over time. At least you have the balls to post up and ask so kudos for that.

**Edit to add - that run of conduuit along the top did not even need a stop end....you could have went straight through the wall at top level and come into the back of a through box on the outside and went on from there.
 
Hmm. The outside looks ok except the T+E which you are going to sort. As for the inside....
Pic 1 conduit looks horrible - Why not double set it so it looks level and tidy ? Looks like you used 1 saddle for that run too. You could have even kicked the conduit out near the top of the wall and run it in a straight line on the ceiling with a final right angle down to the box.
Pic 3 The spacing of the saddles looks wrong/horrible to close to the switches and bends. (But you are only following the other conduit drops which already have badly spaced saddles so you were kind of restricted.)
You form your own bends then ruin it by using an inspection 90....just don't look right.
Lack of saddles and badly spaced...Sorry bud if this comes over negative but if you are just starting out I am more of the camp that likes to point out the faults rather than hope you get better over time. At least you have the balls to post up and ask so kudos for that.

**Edit to add - that run of conduuit along the top did not even need a stop end....you could have went straight through the wall at top level and come into the back of a through box on the outside and went on from there.

Are you for real? Clerk of works or what?:bobby:
 
Just a spark who likes to leave and encourage others to leave a nice neat tidy job. I am as critical of my own work...I would bet most others are too. IMHO it's all about standards and a little bit of pride in your work.
 
I take the comments on board but I have just realised God status still needs to be achieved. [emoji1] I'm only 21 so I suppose I've got a while to perfect stuff.
Mate don't take my criticism to heart. I was more moved to comment when I saw you were just starting out......It's more to encourage you and get your head thinking hmm yep maybe I could have done this/that. Or even that Diddy is a grumpy fussy idiot....as long as you think lol.
My standard saddle placement is 12"/300mm away from each box/bend and saddles spaced out equally between as required. That makes for a tidy job that looks all symmetrical ect when you stand back and look at it. Like I say I know I am a fussy git....just trying to throw a few pointers out there to a newly qualified fellow spark. Be neat and tidy mate it will be what separates you from the chancres in our industry.
 
With the first pic, I would have liked to see an double set on that, BUT on the whole not bad at all, don't see an problem with using black pvc conduit externally (heavy gage), t&e outside not a good idea. but well done.
 
Did some work for a friend and want to know if i did it right. As in regs compliant. I came off an existing lighting circuit to a sw fused spur. I used a 3A fuse to stop nuisance tripping. All the bends are done by hand and there was previously no conduit so i altered previous work. I sealed the all holes with silicone and made sure the connections were bomb tight. Im only newly qualified and did this off my own bat. Any advice/ideasView attachment 26951View attachment 26952View attachment 26953View attachment 26954View attachment 26955View attachment 26956 would be nice.
​I changed that for you.
 

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