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lat and plaster walls

Discuss lat and plaster walls in the Australia area at ElectriciansForums.net

If possible don't chase them, you can usually feed the cable down behind the lathes. You can sometimes cut a neat hole to fix a plasterboard box if the plaster isnt too thick or screw a batten across the hole and fix a metal box to that.
 
exactly what truckster says. do not chase lath and plaster, you'll destroy it's strength. treat it as a studded wall. what i try and do is cut for the box on a vertical 3x2 timber, chip it out, and fix metal box to timber.
 
mk flange boxes with inch and half 6 screws . mark the box then cut the plaster out with your stanley knife then cut the middle bit of lathe with a flexible padsaw then be carefull with top and bottom lathe cutting. hope this makes sense.
There certainly is an art to working with the old lathe and plaster walls.
 
I always prefer to cut a section out between the uprights and fit a noggin for my box. Most other methods give far too much flex when inserting/removing plugs leaving cracked decoration and plaster afterwards. Makes a bit more work for the plasterer using this method but leaves a better finish in the end.
 
If its a bit flexy, good ol' expanding foam, stiffens everything up!

Be careful with it tho, did one job, sprayed gallons in 'just to be on the safe side' ...blew a four foot chunk of plaster off both sides of the wall when it expanded!
 
If possible don't chase them, you can usually feed the cable down behind the lathes. You can sometimes cut a neat hole to fix a plasterboard box if the plaster isnt too thick or screw a batten across the hole and fix a metal box to that.

Yep like that word sometimes like sometims the wall falls to bits when you try to cut into in and in the flats where I stay I cannot understand why people fit un-hooded halogen spots into a lathe and plaster ceiling because as far as I am concerned Lathe is the best fire tinder in the world
 
Yep like that word sometimes like sometims the wall falls to bits when you try to cut into in and in the flats where I stay I cannot understand why people fit un-hooded halogen spots into a lathe and plaster ceiling because as far as I am concerned Lathe is the best fire tinder in the world

YES!!! you are so right, I took a few walls out once (lungs still not recovered from the dust) - kept all the lathe as, as you say, it is THE best tinder. Been drying for 80+ years .....

worked a treat in the rayburn. Wish i had some more
 
Yep like that word sometimes like sometims the wall falls to bits when you try to cut into in and in the flats where I stay I cannot understand why people fit un-hooded halogen spots into a lathe and plaster ceiling because as far as I am concerned Lathe is the best fire tinder in the world

YES!!! you are so right, I took a few walls out once (lungs still not recovered from the dust) - kept all the lathe as, as you say, it is THE best tinder. Been drying for 80+ years .....

worked a treat in the rayburn. Wish i had some more :rolleyes4:
 
The old lathe and plaster ceilings and walls are fire rated believe it or not. You could use a 4 1/2" grinder with a thin metal cutting blade which should cut a neat hole for a plaster fix box but the dust........
 
exactly what truckster says. do not chase lath and plaster, you'll destroy it's strength. treat it as a studded wall. what i try and do is cut for the box on a vertical 3x2 timber, chip it out, and fix metal box to timber.

Thats about it.you will have difficulty doing better than that
If you coupled that with some bonding rammed into the hole before fixing,jobs a good un

 
Had one of these last week......... ideally baton in and fix metal knock out box to this to this.

But if not possible : Fein cut ---> fast fix box ---> squirt of foam ---> lovely

I like that wording,typical sparky satisfaction
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never been able to get a squirt of foam out of the tin without it then drying up in the nozzle and having to chuck the rest of the tin.
 

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