Discuss Main Bonding plastic pipes in the Industrial Electricians' Talk area at ElectriciansForums.net

when we arrived, the woman of the house said, 'i think theres a gas leak because my husband tried to pull the gas cooker out, and we smell gas through the house now, but it cant be that bad, we haven't blown up yet!'

clearly a non smoking residence otherwise it may be different...

but erm the bonding thing? can it be omitted? its a pig of a run if so (its not an excuse just if it isnt needed then that would be cool)
 
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regs say it has to be bonded (within 600mm of tap - surely that's on the plastic?!). but what's the chance of anybody ever being exposed to a live fault and touching this section at the same time? (is it next to an appliance?) if it's miles from any circuits / appliances, and a pain to get a bond to the c/u, then i would leave it. if it's right behind the washing machine, bond it
 
regs say it has to be bonded (within 600mm of tap - surely that's on the plastic?!). but what's the chance of anybody ever being exposed to a live fault and touching this section at the same time? (is it next to an appliance?) if it's miles from any circuits / appliances, and a pain to get a bond to the c/u, then i would leave it. if it's right behind the washing machine, bond it

"within 600mm of tap" could be as little as 1mm from the tap and that would be on the copper.

My view is that from the picture posted in this thread there is room for a bonding clamp on the copper IF IT IS NEEDED.

Another thought is what happens if that plastic at some time gets replaced with copper?

Would it need bonding then and if so why not now?
 
It will be under the kitchen units, and the sink will be near to to within 1-2m either side of the stopcock and obviously above it(i cant remember from the drawings) but the sink will be fitted with plastic pipes.

There aren't any circuits near except a socket outlet which will be in a unit 3-4 metres to the right to provide juice to a single oven.

I don't mean to reiterate what i ask, but it's just because the regs are so open to interpretation i would just like to hear you views.

thanks to all the responses so far...
 
I'll probably be shot down for this but imo, whats the worst that could happen if its not bonded strictly in compliance, or even bonded to met at all.....if its realy difficult to run a protective bonding conductor from met to this small peice of extraneous pipe work, then I'd either supplementary bond it or box it in and note on EIC...in all honesty whats the worst that could happen if all pipe work etc is plastic and this piece is hidden under the sink.
 
It will be under the kitchen units, and the sink will be near to to within 1-2m either side of the stopcock and obviously above it(i cant remember from the drawings) but the sink will be fitted with plastic pipes.

There aren't any circuits near except a socket outlet which will be in a unit 3-4 metres to the right to provide juice to a single oven.

I don't mean to reiterate what i ask, but it's just because the regs are so open to interpretation i would just like to hear you views.

thanks to all the responses so far...


You asked a question and were given the correct answer. It's entirely up to you if you want to ignore that answer and happy being responsible for you're actions, or lack of them, depending on what way you look at it!!
 
Just bond it and get it over with.....
If it wasn't for that stop cock being there, I would have considered boxing it in and adding a new stop cock with plastic each side....

Though in a recent site conversation Scottish Water said to me they are keen to remove lead water pipes supplying homes as they tend to leak (mainly as they are getting on in years....). Especially so when your doing building work anyway...SW guy I spoke to said if there had been a lead supply present they would have asked for a trench, installed a duct and alkathene pipework and then disconnected the lead pipework.
 
I have copper incoming pipework, though they were out about the drains (thankfully out of my way...)
and I was warned to look out for the incoming water main, and what to do if anything looks "unusual"...call them..
 
Just bond it and get it over with.....
If it wasn't for that stop cock being there, I would have considered boxing it in and adding a new stop cock with plastic each side....

Though in a recent site conversation Scottish Water said to me they are keen to remove lead water pipes supplying homes as they tend to leak (mainly as they are getting on in years....). Especially so when your doing building work anyway...SW guy I spoke to said if there had been a lead supply present they would have asked for a trench, installed a duct and alkathene pipework and then disconnected the lead pipework.

Yes that was the case here too.

I was working for a builder who was buying older properties and we were renovating them - and I mean "renovating" them - it was a joy to be working on them.

They were all connected to the street mains by lead piping and all we had to do was dig a trench from the building to the boundary and lay our plastic 25mm pipe from there into the building and our stop cock. The water company would dig from there out to their main and connect it to our pipe. We then just had to fill the trench.

There was no charge from the water company.
 
SW reckoned they were responsible for anything pre house stop cock....oddly enough
Did say they reckoned the incomer could possibly run under the garage...but its unlikely and there is room to re-route it under the path...
Pretty sound bloke actually, seems they went to alkathene just after this place was built as the guy coming out lives a few towns over, in a house of very similar design but his incomer is alkathene whereas mine is copper....so must have been just prior to changeover...
 
SW reckoned they were responsible for anything pre house stop cock....oddly enough
Did say they reckoned the incomer could possibly run under the garage...but its unlikely and there is room to re-route it under the path...
Pretty sound bloke actually, seems they went to alkathene just after this place was built as the guy coming out lives a few towns over, in a house of very similar design but his incomer is alkathene whereas mine is copper....so must have been just prior to changeover...

Aye .. I think all the different water companies have their own ideas - same as the leccy companies so it can be literally a case of crossing the street and finding different rules apply.
 
Warned its not overly difficult to split a plastic main with a spade....so be canny around 2 ft 6 down....if I dissappear sometime in the spring...I;ve been drowned by a burst water main....
 
Warned its not overly difficult to split a plastic main with a spade....so be canny around 2 ft 6 down....if I dissappear sometime in the spring...I;ve been drowned by a burst water main....

Aye .. that's the depth we were told to dig and use pea gravel and sand under and above the pipe.

I remember we asked about running it through a duct and were told there was no need.
 
I'd have preferred to see another inch or two

Exactly what our lass said the other night :freak:
 

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