new consumer unit - futrue proof advice

[dyb22]

Hi all first post on here.

I need to upgrade my existing fuse box to a new consumer unit. I need to getthis done first and the works will be done by a professional electrician. Iwant to future proof the unit so that it can accommodate extras as I workthrough updating the house. Would appreciate if the electricians on here could reviewthe list below and give some advice on the best size of consumer unit to covermy needs. Big concern would be mixing the proposed garage workshop supply withthat serving the deep freeze which will be in the same space. Thanks in advancefor any help.

Consumer unit
General

• Smoke/heat detectors throughout property
• Power supply to burglar alarm
• Power supply to CCTV

Ground Floor
Kitchen

• Fridge Freezer – 13A
• Single oven – 13A
• Dishwasher – 13A
• Washing machine – 13A
• Boiler – 3A
• Gas hobs – 3A
• Microwave – 13A
• Chimney extractor – 3A
• Wall mounted TV – 13A
• 6no double sockets (4no around worktop and 2 Noon wall next to dining table)
• Cabinet LED lighting 6no
• Ceiling lighting – 2no pendulum light fittings

Lounge

• 4 no double sockets
• Ceiling lighting – 8no LED spotlights

Under stair box room (access off lounge)

• 2no double sockets
• Wall mounted light

First Floor
Bedroom 1

• 4no double sockets
• Ceiling lighting – 1no pendulum light fittings

Bedroom 2

• 4no double sockets
• Ceiling lighting – 1no pendulum light fittings

Bedroom 3

• 4no double sockets
• Ceiling lighting – 1no pendulum light fittings

Bathroom

• Ceiling lighting – 4no LED spotlights

Airing cupboard

• 1no electric tube heater (500W)

Stair landing

• 1no double sockets
• Ceiling lighting – 3no LED spotlights

Attic loft space

• 2no wall mounted lights

Future plans
Attached garage

• Ceiling lighting – 4no fluorescent lightfittings
• Deep freeze
• Clothes dryer
• 2kW electric heater
• Workshop power – 4 no double sockets & 1nofluorescent light fitting for task lighting. Typical workshop equipment – 1Phair compressor, power tools, pressure washer etc.
• Garage supply to also provide power to 2noexternal double sockets for gardening power tools.

House Extension
Future proof consumer unit to allow lighting and power to houseextension. This would be a small extension for office room. Typical officeequipment – 2no PC’s, printer, wall mounted TV.
Attic/loft conversion
Future proof consumer unit to allow lighting and power to attic/loftconversion possibility of electric shower added.
Outside garden decking
Future proof consumer unit to allow lighting and power to deckingareas with possibility of electric radiant heater.

 

[Octopus]

I would recommend a 14 way RCBO unit. Not that you need 14 ways now but you will have spare capacity...

 

[Leesparkykent]

1:smokes/downstairs lights 6A
2:burglar alarm 16A
3:CCTV 16A
4:kitchen RFC 32A
5:Oven 16A
6:boiler 16A
7:down stairs RFC 32A
8:upstairs RFC 32A
9:upstairs lights 6A
10:airing cupboard heater 16A
11: garage lights 6A
12:garage sockets 32A
13:garage heater 16A
14:workshop power 32A
15.outside power/decking lights 16A
16:loft lights 6A
17:loft sockets 20A
18:shower 32A/40A/50A

1st option: 20way board, main switch all RCBO's apart from burglar alarm and CCTV on MCB's and installed using a reference method that doesn't require RCD protection. Around £350-£500.

2nd option: 20way High integrity dual RCD board. CCTV and burglar alarm on MCB's installed between main switch and 1st RCD wired using a reference method that doesn't require RCD protection. Around £235-£280 on material.

3rd option: split load board, circuits split between main switch and RCD. MCB's for RCD side of board, RCBO's for main switch side of board apart from burglar alarm and CCTV which would be installed on main switch side using MCB's and installed using a reference method that doesn't require RCD protection. Around £280-£360.

Out of the above three options, option one would be your best choice and well worth the extra IMO. Depending on what option, manufacturer etc you may have to use a double stacked/dual row consumer unit.

 

[Skelly]

Leesparkykent Option 1 is the best way forward

 

[Leesparkykent]

Leesparkykent Option 1 is the best way forward

Agreed:sailor:

 

[tomspark93]

Lee sparkey Kent has listed three options and as above option one would be best. Depending on how you plan on decorating the house i'd seriously consider having supply cables run in at this stage for you outside work, extension, and loft conversiob. Laminate flooring, tiles and Newley decorated rooms can make it very hard to run new circuits in at a later date. However, having them already in place to tag on to can make life a lot easier when work starts. Especially If these are things which will definitely happen. Talk to your electrician about further plans and I'm sure he can advise you accordingly. The same goes for cctv, data and to cables. It looks much better hidden rather than clipped around the outside of the house.

 

[dyb22]

Ok thanks for all the replies so far. Option 1 as suggested by Lee looks like the way to go. Would you have a separate garage consumer unit or just run everything from the house CU. Can you recommend a 20way consumer unit?

 

[Skelly]

If you go with option 1 all RCBO's you don't need a separate CU for the garage, As for make that comes down to whoever doe's the work. Everyone has there own preference.
Also reiterate what tomspark93 has suggested plan ahead for the future, Better job all-round.

 

[Andy78]

Ok thanks for all the replies so far. Option 1 as suggested by Lee looks like the way to go. Would you have a separate garage consumer unit or just run everything from the house CU. Can you recommend a 20way consumer unit?

I'd get your electrician to recommend and supply the board they will be fitting. Each electrician has their own preferences. Don't go buying one yourself as quality, reliability, and ease of installation varies quite a bit.

 

[dyb22]

I'dget your electrician to recommend and supply the board they will be fitting.Each electrician has their own preferences. Don't go buying one yourself asquality, reliability, and ease of installation varies quite a bit.

Will do this. The first phase of the house upgrade is a new kitchen which willneed a rewire. Have a decent void under the ground floor to help with futureinstallation.

Looking at the board break down I have some queries see below. Can anyone comment?

1:smokes/downstairs lights 6A (do smoke alarms need rcd protection? can they be on their owncircuit with mcb only?)
2:burglar alarm 16A (whysuch a large supply for something that has a small power draw?)
3:CCTV 16A (again why such a largesupply for something that has a small power draw?)
4:kitchen RFC 32A
5:Oven 16A
6:boiler 16A (why such a large supplyfor something that has a small power draw? It’s a natural gas combi boiler)
7:down stairs RFC 32A
8:upstairs RFC 32A
9:upstairs lights 6A (wouldyou put smoke detectors on this circuit as well?)
10:airing cupboard heater 16A (the tube heater would be no more than 500W, would you still take aradial supply for something this size or could it be a 3A spur from the upstairs32A RFC?)
11: garage lights 6A
12:garage sockets 32A (wouldI need a separate supply for the deep freeze don’t want to lose hundreds ofpounds worth of food if something trips)
13:garage heater 16A
14:workshop power 32A (wouldthis be a RFC or a radial?)
15.outside power/decking lights 16A
16:loft lights 6A
17:loft sockets 20A
18:shower 32A/40A/50A

 

[ipf]

I'd get your electrician to recommend and supply the board they will be fitting. Each electrician has their own preferences. Don't go buying one yourself as quality, reliability, and ease of installation varies quite a bit.

Then again, just seen a top notch extension done in a high class house. Expensive kitchen and lighting via Lutron control panel, must have cost a packet. The builder had his regular electrician do the work. Previously there were a couple of Hager CU's with RCBO's for all power circuits. Obviously changes were required but he removed the existing and replaced with a Chint double RCD unit........he'll get a damn site more for the removed Hager than he paid for the Chinese carp.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Will do this. The first phase of the house upgrade is a new kitchen which willneed a rewire. Have a decent void under the ground floor to help with futureinstallation.

Looking at the board break down I have some queries see below. Can anyone comment?

1:smokes/downstairs lights 6A (do smoke alarms need rcd protection? can they be on their owncircuit with mcb only?)only if the installation method permits. For example if wired in bs8436 cable on a type B circuit breaker.
2:burglar alarm 16A (whysuch a large supply for something that has a small power draw?) Generally wired in 2.5mm cable and the fuse protects the cable not the equipment. Due to the design current of the circuit it would be permissible to install a lower current rated circuit breaker.
3:CCTV 16A (again why such a largesupply for something that has a small power draw?) As above number 2
4:kitchen RFC 32A
5:Oven 16A
6:boiler 16A (why such a large supplyfor something that has a small power draw? It’s a natural gas combi boiler) As above number 2 & 3
7:down stairs RFC 32A
8:upstairs RFC 32A
9:upstairs lights 6A (wouldyou put smoke detectors on this circuit as well?) Generally the smokes would be wired as one and be doubled up on a lighting circuit breaker, so either upstairs or downstairs.
10:airing cupboard heater 16A (the tube heater would be no more than 500W, would you still take aradial supply for something this size or could it be a 3A spur from the upstairs32A RFC?) could be taken of the ring final circuit but IMO best to have a dedicated circuit for any kind of heating if there is scope for it.
11: garage lights 6A
12:garage sockets 32A (wouldI need a separate supply for the deep freeze don’t want to lose hundreds ofpounds worth of food if something trips) Some people like the idea of this but never experienced this problem in the 15years i've been sparking
13:garage heater 16A
14:workshop power 32A (wouldthis be a RFC or a radial?)ring or radial...which ever it is it still uses a way in the consumer unit
15.outside power/decking lights 16A
16:loft lights 6A
17:loft sockets 20A
18:shower 32A/40A/50A

comments in blue

 

[LankyWill]

heres a stackable ive just started first one ive seen, needs module timers fitting and odd mcb. Its for a 6 bed contemporary barn i am doing atm.
.

 

[mattg4321]

I fitted a Hager Design 10 stacked board last week. Hi integrity with 3x RCD's. 6 circuits on main switch for RCBO's or circuits that don't require RCD protection. 6 circuits on each RCD. Nice bit of kit.

Nice job Will, but having up to 12 circuits on one RCD isn't something I like doing so the Wylex was out for me.

 

[LankyWill]

Yeah i thought it was a bit badly designed, but sadly some tool in the office picked the board as they were sick of me buying Hager £££. I would have liked to have rcbos or even 4 rcds. Im not the greatest fan of Wylex but their metal boards seem considerably better than the plastic ones.

 

[dyb22]

Picking this up again, I’ve been trying to source a hager 20way consumer unit that will accept RCBO’s. Can’t find one. Can someone recommendwhere I can find. Plus I’ve noticed that some units are classed as 17[SUP]th[/SUP]ed complaint whilst others don’t state this. Is there a difference?

UPDATE:

Found this:

http://www.hager.co.uk/product-cata...-of-consumer-units/design-30/vm120k/51612.htm

 

[Midwest]

Picking this up again, I’ve been trying to source a hager 20way consumer unit that will accept RCBO’s. Can’t find one. Can someone recommendwhere I can find. Plus I’ve noticed that some units are classed as 17[SUP]th[/SUP]ed complaint whilst others don’t state this. Is there a difference?

UPDATE:

Found this:

Technical Properties VM120K

Hope the mechanical engineer, is getting in an electrician to install said CU, or do you have another reason?

Note to oneself: stop jumping to conclusions. :rifle:

 

[dyb22]

Hope the mechanical engineer, is getting in an electrician to install said CU, or do you have another reason?

Note to oneself: stop jumping to conclusions. :rifle:

Totally...I will not be touching it and will be getting a professionalin. I just want to make sure I know what I’m asking for so get the installationI want. I don’t want to end up getting something that does not work for me. Iwant something that’s quality that offers resilience for my future installationand also will accommodate just RCBO’s as per previous advice.

 

[Midwest]

Totally...I will not be touching it and will be getting a professionalin. I just want to make sure I know what I’m asking for so get the installationI want. I don’t want to end up getting something that does not work for me. Iwant something that’s quality that offers resilience for my future installationand also will accommodate just RCBO’s as per previous advice.

Yes apologies dyb..........cough, re-read your OP. 17th Edition compliant, often refers to Dual RCD CU, which was a sales pitch for the wiring regs circa 2008. You'll now see a similar reference to 'Amendment 3' now (reference to certain reg, requiring them to be made of non-combustible materials).

 

[Midwest]

You'll find quite favourable reviews here of the Hager CU's, not fitted one myself. Believe the Design 30 is their 'Premier' range.