Problem with new garage sub panel

[rodbuilder]

I get really fed up posting questions on forums and having people "answer" me who have no clue what they're talking about, so I came here to ask the pros!!!.................

After having great success a few years ago wiring my girlfriend's storage shed for 220, I now have my own house and ran 50 amp service to my garage for an electric hoist, lights and welder, etc.

So everything is buried nice and tidy underground - 6/3 with a ground, all put inside 2" conduit with a new sub panel in the garage.

KEEP IN MIND HERE THAT ALL I DID TO FINALIZE MY WIRING WAS TO WIRE UP A NEW LIGHT SWITCH IN THE GARAGE, SO IT DRAWS POWER FROM THE NEW PANEL AND NOT THE 110 VAC HOUSE CIRCUIT.

After finishing up the wiring task today and double-checking everything in both panels, I switched on the breaker in the house and BOINK - my new lights in the garage are flickering and REALLY dim.

I just saw on a youtube video that a guy said to "isolate" the neutral and ground buss bars, and that there was supposed to be a green screw to remove to do this. My problem is, I installed the ground bar, as the box didn't come with one and I seriously don't believe that it came with any type of "insulators" to isolate the connection from the panel.

So, is the ground bar my problem and how do I determine if it's isolated from the panel/neutral bar?

As for my photo, you can see that I painted the red leg so it matches the other one. The white lead goes to the neutral buss bar and the bare copper ground runs to the ground strip on the left....................but as I said before I REALLY don't think that's insulated from the panel because it's screwed right to the metal box. I put it there!!!!

HELP!!!! And thanks a bunch!!!

 

[ifindoubtdont]

Re: Proble with new garage sub panel

The first thing you should do is safely isolate (switch off) this distribution panel. Second is put some appropriate coloured sleeving on the earth wires ( the bare copper coloured ones). The panel at the moment looks lethal. The ground strip as you call it should be connected to the metal casing of the panel. Make sure the neutral bar is not touching or connected to the metal casing of the panel. Without proper testing equipment you may find it difficult to locate the problem causing your light to be dim. Now may be a good time to think about calling an electrician to come and have a look. If I was in the area with my test equipment I could have a look and fix it free of charge. 2 airline tickets and put me and my wife up for the week and I could be in your area with my test equipment.

 

[telectrix]

I get really fed up posting questions on forums and having people "answer" me who have no clue what they're talking about, so I came here to ask the pros!!!.................

After having great success a few years ago wiring my girlfriend's storage shed for 220, I now have my own house and ran 50 amp service to my garage for an electric hoist, lights and welder, etc.

So everything is buried nice and tidy underground - 6/3 with a ground, all put inside 2" conduit with a new sub panel in the garage.

KEEP IN MIND HERE THAT ALL I DID TO FINALIZE MY WIRING WAS TO WIRE UP A NEW LIGHT SWITCH IN THE GARAGE, SO IT DRAWS POWER FROM THE NEW PANEL AND NOT THE 110 VAC HOUSE CIRCUIT.

After finishing up the wiring task today and double-checking everything in both panels, I switched on the breaker in the house and BOINK - my new lights in the garage are flickering and REALLY dim.

I just saw on a youtube video that a guy said to "isolate" the neutral and ground buss bars, and that there was supposed to be a green screw to remove to do this. My problem is, I installed the ground bar, as the box didn't come with one and I seriously don't believe that it came with any type of "insulators" to isolate the connection from the panel.

So, is the ground bar my problem and how do I determine if it's isolated from the panel/neutral bar?

As for my photo, you can see that I painted the red leg so it matches the other one. The white lead goes to the neutral buss bar and the bare copper ground runs to the ground strip on the left....................but as I said before I REALLY don't think that's insulated from the panel because it's screwed right to the metal box. I put it there!!!!

HELP!!!! And thanks a bunch!!!

how far from the supply in the house is the garage?

 

[Richard Burns]

Flickering and very dim is usually a clear indication of a loose connection that is sparking and of high resistance, this would normally be very obvious as the plastic around will start to melt and you may hear a crackling sound. It would be something to get sorted as soon as possible.

Having said that Telectrix points out that a very long length of cable may drop the voltage enough to cause the lights to barely function.