Problems with phone sockets and wi fi.

[topquark]

Err, I thought we'd established that the master socket was already split phone/adsl

 

[topquark]

Err, I thought we'd established that the master socket was already split phone/adsl

Or not, I read post #3 ... being in two parts as adsl/phone split, then filters are mentioned so who knows

 

[Rappid]

If you can remove the bottom half of your master socket and plug your broadband into the socket via the micro filter and test from there, if you are still getting a poor connection, disconnect the main plate and make sure nothing else is connected to the A & B of the master socket.
The two tone siren is probably that you have a answer phone message, 1571 to access (i think)

 

[ExArmy]

firstly i would take the master socket off and do the test from the bottom of there, if everything works then it's a problem with your internal wiring. is there a need for 11 slave sockets?
and has it been established if there is an ADSL splitting facplate on the master socket yet? if not, get one they're miles better than those 2pence cheapo separate boxes, and if you need 11 of them chances are 1 will be faulty which will slow your ADSL down.
and to get into the router settings type in http://192.168.0.1

 

[topquark]

firstly i would take the master socket off and do the test from the bottom of there, if everything works then it's a problem with your internal wiring. is there a need for 11 slave sockets?
and has it been established if there is an ADSL splitting facplate on the master socket yet? if not, get one they're miles better than those 2pence cheapo separate boxes, and if you need 11 of them chances are 1 will be faulty which will slow your ADSL down.
and to get into the router settings type in http://192.168.0.1

@ExArmy Is that the default IP address for a sky router?

 

[ExArmy]

thats for any router as far as i know

 

[topquark]

@ExArmy Is that the default IP address for a sky router?

In case that doesn't work here are a few others to try: 192.168.0.254, 192.168.1.1, 192.168.1.254, 10.0.0.1, 10.0.0.254.

Can be customised to most addresses (but none ending in .255). If you're on windows it may be able to discover the router config address in windows explorer (right click and select show device page if it finds something that looks like it may be your router -- later copies of windows only ie vista/7).

 

[topquark]

thats for any router as far as i know

Most can be changed and are often different.....just looked up the sky one and that looks like the default for the netgear supplied ones. Cheers!

 

[hoover]

How many phones do you have connected - make sure you dont exceed the REN number which used to be 4 for domestic - not too sure now! Also re your sky, are you sure it isnt connected to a phone socket, they always stipulate it has to be for updates etc

No mate. Deffo no sky connected to the phones. This is because sky installed the tv a week before the phone which was ten days before the broadband.

 

[hermetic]

Hi Hoover
You have several problems here, the first is that you can't use a wireless phone and a wireless broadband system in the same house (others will disagree) the 2.4gHz signal is very sensitive in that it will stay connected wireless wise, but all data throughput will cease. are you using a laptop or a pc? if it's a laptop, connect it direct to your router with a patch lead and try your net speed using Speedtest.net - The Global Broadband Speed Test. (I am assuming that you have the wireless router connected through a microfilter into the master socket) when you have done this try to connect wirelessly to the router and compare the speed. If you get good speed through the patch lead and poor speed through the wireless it is the router at fault, or there is interference. Here is a list of things that I know from personal experience will interfere with a wireless internet connection.
wireless:
phones, alarms, baby alarms, cameras, remote controls for tv's, gates etc video and tv wireless systems, microwave ovens (yes they use 2.4 gHz magnetron!)
2.4gHz wireless signals travel in straight lines and will not go through brick walls, they will go through wood if it is dry, but with losses. they will go through plasterboard, but not if it is foil backed, they will go through K glass, but will lose about 30% signal strength. The signal will bounce round corners( actually it scatters rather than reflects, with large losses) but by and large the straight line rule is absolute. the problems occur also when your neighbours use any of this equipment, especially any neighbours across the road from you! In short, after many years of experience I now advise people NOT to use wireless systems inside as they are unreliable and slow. the manufacturers will not tell you this of course, and if you are using a laptop or Pc in the same room as the router you will probably have few problems apart from interference. The problem of slow speed stems from the fact that every time you connect to a wireless router the first thing the router does is test the connection, if it gets error free transmit and recieve, it will operate at full speed, if there are errors it will default down to the next slowest speed and try again, and it will keep doing this till it gets an error free connection, or runs out of slower speeds! The "bar chart" you see in your wireless connection properties is the wireless signal strength, it is only a very rough indicator of the actual data throughput that the connection will deliver. A recent BBC news article stated that "wireless connections can run up to 30% slower than wired" Not only could I have told them this years ago (but no one would listen) In my experience 30% is conservative.
You will be able to log into your router by putting the local ip address in to your browser address bar, this will be something like 192.168.1.1 (could end .0.1 or .2.1) it should tell you this in the router manual, unless you know the pasword for the router you will need the default password , again from the manual but try admin for the username/ password
As for youe phones, disconnect everything then go round the house and check each phone point seperately with a known good phone. If all the phone points seem ok, look on the bottom of your phones, and you should see a "REN number" this is the ring equivalence number, and is usually in the form REN 1 or REN 0.5 etc add up all the ren numbers of your phones and see what you get, if the REN comes to more than 4 you will have problems, if it is more than 5 some or all phones will not work. In short, the REN of your entire phone system must be less than 5. Incidentally, you MUST use a microfilter on every phone.
Hope this helps
phil.hermeticATlangtoft.net

 

[topquark]

Works fine in mine with wireless doorbell and cordless phone

Remote controls for TV's, now wouldn't that be ifrared

 

[hermetic]

most are now infrared, some not, remotes for gates seem to be the worst. try setting your computer on a download or speedtest, then use your phone and watch the speed. the problem is not that they use the exact same frequency, but that they have lousy frequency control and tend to spew out masses of interference above and below the frequency qoted on the back of the kit.
phil/hermetic

 

[JamesBrownLive]

Maybe before you blame the wireless connection completely, you should ascertain if you are receiving a decent level of bandwidth to begin with.

If your connection to your ISP is poor then it really does not matter if the wireless is playing up or not, excepting that you will just be adding to the problem :6:

Try connecting your PC directly to one of the ports at the back of the router, they are normally setup to be DHCP servers so providing you have setup the NIC card in your PC to work with DHCP (as opposed to being manually configured) it should connect without issue.

Then just visit a reputable site that can measure you upload and download speeds....

UK Broadband Speed Test with Broadband StreetStats

This is a decent service and once you have done it, you can compare the results you are getting to what your neighbours are getting. Useful for finding out if you are just on a $hite exchange or if the problem is only you.

Cheers

 

[YouAreBroken]

I would start with the simple one, connect to the router using a cable and not wifi, this would simply rule out cordless knocking out the wifi(very doubtfull). Next disconnect everything including router/filters and connect using a standard wired phone and dial 0 and listen to the line(you got a few seconds before it responds) hear any noises? snap/crackle/pop/is it clean?(e.g. is it silent or does it sould like a radio out of tune) etc if yes then call your ISP and ask for a RATS test and hopefully this should tell you where the fault is or near abouts. If not then do the same test with the cordless phone in(no router yet) If noise appears then suspect cordless base. Then same again with both cordless+router+filter in, another thing to do is listen when the router is trying to connect, if you hear noise either when dialed 0 or just listening to the dial tone when the router connects. If they all pass then add one phone at a time.


Just reading your post again it sounds like your hearing the router trying to connect to the DSLAM with a break in the line. BT 1571 is a contant <tone><pause><tone> with no variations in freqency. If it is then ignore eveything above and you want to do this:

Disconnect everything then at the Master socket. If its a NTE5 socket then take off the face and there should be a socket on the back of that(If not work with what you got), connect a filter, wired phone and router. Listen to the line for noises, press 0 and that'll make it a tad quieter. If you still hear that two tone noise then contact your ISP for a RATS test. Its their department after that as anything behind the NTE is their equipment.
(sorry for the rambling...just got home from the night shift).
If you can try changing the filter and RJ11 cable from the router to the filter.

If none of that helps, call up the ISP anyways and get them to manually drop the speed to about 100kb/s and see how that goes, if it stays working then its probably lots of line noise, usually the DSLAM does this automatically but things do happen and go strange.

 

[puddy]

If I was you I would replace all the old wiring but first find out how far you are from the BT exchange. Also log on to bt.speedtester.com to see what speed your BT exchange operates at. When done if the speeds a little slow fit a BT-i plate to your master socket. Make sure your isp has got your account correctly setup too

Make sure all connected equipment that plugs in to a phone socket including sky boxes has a filter. You can get Sockets that have the filter built in so no dangly wires hanging down. If that doesn't solve your problem ask your isp for a new free router or buy a new one. Choose a Draytek or Billion plus choose a 5ghz router. Make sure if capable your wireless signal operates on the n signal rather than the b/g setting you need to make sure all your laptops wireless cards can run on the new n signal most are backward compatible with b/g

As for cordless phone destroying your wireless signal utter rubbish. You do get problems with phone calls be cut off but that’s a line fault. Lastly if this doesn’t help ring BT but do not tell them you are having slow internet problems tell them the phone crackly or you keep being cut off otherwise they won’t help you. Hopefully a BT engineer will be sent out and find a fault and fix it free-hopefully!!!!


Puddy

 

[hoover]

Thanks mate. Some good points there. But I promise you, when my cordless phone is plugged in my wi fi(slow speed one at that) goes off altogether.