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Hello there,
I’m in the process of mapping out a relatively standard S-plan system for my parents central heating and hot water system. Not sure exactly who set this all up in it’s current layout however it is certainly non-standard in several ways and is very inefficient and expensive to run. I believe the main reasons for it having been setup this way is the fact that we have both missing components and incorrect component types used – allow me to explain:
Firstly there is no room thermostat.
Secondly there is only a single channel programmer where there should be a dual channel one – the programmer is currently only talking to the Central heating (CH) valve.
The hot water (HW) override or ON button is currently activated by turning the dial on the boiler from 0 to a value from 1-5. (see figure 2 at bottom of post)
The dial also needs to be toggled for the CH to work – therefore if you ever need CH then you also heat the HW (even if you don’t need it!).
I have purchased a new dual channel programmer (drayton LP722) and also a wireless thermostat (un-wired control panel that can sit anywhere in the house & a receiver that will wire into the S-plan)
I have gone ahead and created a wiring plan of the existing system – please see figure 1 below (see figure 6 at the bottom of the thread for a photo of the below board):
FIGURE 1
I've been using this youtube guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9rN5D-wQIc&list=PLSZxXA-RQriDrN__RSLdadhjneMBDrNwL&index=52 and a couple of others as primary reference point for what I actually need to get to in the end - I intend on creating another diagram as above with the intended layout once I have cleared a couple of points up.
These are a few notes and questions I jotted down as I went (the key questions are marked in red):
1.1 - Currently the black wire from the BOILER (L or PL – Pump Live) connects to the reddish brown wire from the HW 2w Valve via junction 3.
1.2 - In the new setup – does the black wire from the BOILER (L or PL – Pump Live) need to connect to the PUMP L brown wire – therefore move the pump brown from junction 1 to junction 3?
1.25 - (Or do we just leave the PUMP brown on SwL terminal 1 and terminate the Boiler black wire? (with a rubber cap or isolate it on it's own terminal)
My first question is generally with regards to the above points 1.1, 1.2 & 1.25:
The pump is not directly wired into the boiler - the wire from the pump just connects to the junction board with the brown (live wire) connecting to the same junction section as both valves and the SwL from the boiler.
As the notes above suggest, I'm not sure what to do with that black wire. In the youtube guides I have watched there is only the L wire that comes out and talks to other components, however I have this extra black wire which is currently connected to the HW valve - (see figure 1 for what it currently is)(see below figure 5 for what I have been using as reference for what I need to reproduce in the new setup) .
FIGURE 5 (screen capture from youtube)
I also attached figure 4 at the bottom of the post for a photo reference of the wiring harness inside the boiler which is marked with pump where the black wire comes from.
2.0 - The HW 2wV reddish brown wire needs to connect to the HW thermostat brown wire. Move the Reddish brown wire to junction 4 to make this connection. (currently the HW thermostat L is on it's own therefore the thermostat must not be working at all at the moment? It needs to talk to the HW 2wV)
3.0 – Programmer wiring – currently L and 1 are linked with a brown cable bridge: this may or may not be needed for the new setup? Look into this.
So the question here is do I need to maintain that bridge between L & 1 on the programmer? - the new dual channel programmer is a drayton LP722 and it's instructions show the following (figure 3) which would suggest that it is needed. However the guides I have been watching on YT have made no reference to bridging the L & 1 terminals.
FIGURE 3
Any assistance or clarity that can be offered would be much appreciated, please let me know if any further explanation or photos are needed.
Thanks
FIGURE 2 - dial on boiler currently used as on/off switch for HW but also needs to be turned on for CH override too
FIGURE 4 - harness inside boiler (section with black wire marked as 'Pump')
Figure 6 - current junction box board.
I’m in the process of mapping out a relatively standard S-plan system for my parents central heating and hot water system. Not sure exactly who set this all up in it’s current layout however it is certainly non-standard in several ways and is very inefficient and expensive to run. I believe the main reasons for it having been setup this way is the fact that we have both missing components and incorrect component types used – allow me to explain:
Firstly there is no room thermostat.
Secondly there is only a single channel programmer where there should be a dual channel one – the programmer is currently only talking to the Central heating (CH) valve.
The hot water (HW) override or ON button is currently activated by turning the dial on the boiler from 0 to a value from 1-5. (see figure 2 at bottom of post)
The dial also needs to be toggled for the CH to work – therefore if you ever need CH then you also heat the HW (even if you don’t need it!).
I have purchased a new dual channel programmer (drayton LP722) and also a wireless thermostat (un-wired control panel that can sit anywhere in the house & a receiver that will wire into the S-plan)
I have gone ahead and created a wiring plan of the existing system – please see figure 1 below (see figure 6 at the bottom of the thread for a photo of the below board):
FIGURE 1
I've been using this youtube guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9rN5D-wQIc&list=PLSZxXA-RQriDrN__RSLdadhjneMBDrNwL&index=52 and a couple of others as primary reference point for what I actually need to get to in the end - I intend on creating another diagram as above with the intended layout once I have cleared a couple of points up.
These are a few notes and questions I jotted down as I went (the key questions are marked in red):
1.1 - Currently the black wire from the BOILER (L or PL – Pump Live) connects to the reddish brown wire from the HW 2w Valve via junction 3.
1.2 - In the new setup – does the black wire from the BOILER (L or PL – Pump Live) need to connect to the PUMP L brown wire – therefore move the pump brown from junction 1 to junction 3?
1.25 - (Or do we just leave the PUMP brown on SwL terminal 1 and terminate the Boiler black wire? (with a rubber cap or isolate it on it's own terminal)
My first question is generally with regards to the above points 1.1, 1.2 & 1.25:
The pump is not directly wired into the boiler - the wire from the pump just connects to the junction board with the brown (live wire) connecting to the same junction section as both valves and the SwL from the boiler.
As the notes above suggest, I'm not sure what to do with that black wire. In the youtube guides I have watched there is only the L wire that comes out and talks to other components, however I have this extra black wire which is currently connected to the HW valve - (see figure 1 for what it currently is)(see below figure 5 for what I have been using as reference for what I need to reproduce in the new setup) .
FIGURE 5 (screen capture from youtube)
I also attached figure 4 at the bottom of the post for a photo reference of the wiring harness inside the boiler which is marked with pump where the black wire comes from.
2.0 - The HW 2wV reddish brown wire needs to connect to the HW thermostat brown wire. Move the Reddish brown wire to junction 4 to make this connection. (currently the HW thermostat L is on it's own therefore the thermostat must not be working at all at the moment? It needs to talk to the HW 2wV)
3.0 – Programmer wiring – currently L and 1 are linked with a brown cable bridge: this may or may not be needed for the new setup? Look into this.
So the question here is do I need to maintain that bridge between L & 1 on the programmer? - the new dual channel programmer is a drayton LP722 and it's instructions show the following (figure 3) which would suggest that it is needed. However the guides I have been watching on YT have made no reference to bridging the L & 1 terminals.
FIGURE 3
Any assistance or clarity that can be offered would be much appreciated, please let me know if any further explanation or photos are needed.
Thanks
FIGURE 2 - dial on boiler currently used as on/off switch for HW but also needs to be turned on for CH override too
FIGURE 4 - harness inside boiler (section with black wire marked as 'Pump')
Figure 6 - current junction box board.
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- but I assume that direction is correct with the water coming down from the tank in the loft and entering the pump as per the arrows I drew in that photo. The plumbing is as it was when we moved here in 2002, so thankfully we can't take responsibility for that if there is indeed a mistake in the setup - either way being a loop I suppose in or out the water gets warmed either way.. perhaps less efficiently though.
