Should this kitchen extractor plug be fitted there???

[PDT]

Long story this one, I wont say who has fitted this but it is a Major UK kitchen supplier/installer. They are claiming that this install is fine, but the extractor is configured to vent outside and the installer has said its a recirculating extractor. Regardless of this the plug socket gets covered with moisture and the flap inside the extractor catches against the cable.

This is the exact way that the extractor was left, what is shown was covered by a stainless cover so we were none the wiser to the way it had been installed until this cover was removed when investigating why the house electrics would trip out when using the extractor. I did explain to the installer that we planned on extracting this to outside, however this would be impossible due to the location of the socket as the piping would be obstructed by the plug and socket. His response was that its designed to recirculate anyway so its not essential to extract to outside.

Any thoughts?

 

[trev]

Well I wouldn't have put it there.

 

[PDT]

Thanks Trev, why would you have located it elsewhere?

 

[trev]

Sorry. crying baby interfered with post. It seems pretty damn obvious that warm moist air will be spat out of that vent and to put a socket immediately above it is ludicrous.

 

[PDT]

Thanks trev. Any other views?

 

[Nitroneil]

Firstly, what was in the "contract" with regards to the extractor, was it to be ducted outside or re-circulating? If not specified and it is called an "extractor" in the specs I would argue that it must "extract" not "re-circulate".
In that case if duct is in place it would be contrary to 132.12 Accessibility of electrical equipment.
If duct not fitted it could be argued that it contravenes 133.3 Conditions of installation, since it does not have by design properties corresponding to its location, e.g. moist environment.

 

[Deleted member 19807]

its not suitable for the location. its in the book, but the books in the van.

 

[Des 56]

This is typical of how many complete this particular type of job, and wrongly in my opinioin,so the way its done is far from unique

When a chimney hood is fitted around this arrangement,the plug and socket are not, sometimes, accessable for inspection and/or convenient for use

The ideal method with this set up is to set a pipe in the wall where the flex can be run to an outlet adjascent to the unit,other methods excepting

The vent on the top which is currently open,should as I understand be blanked off, when external venting is not being used,the moisture issue may be prevented by doing this

It seems a very simple job to alter the set up to allow external venting by adapting a method on the lines of the above,
External venting is much better in my opinion if possible
Venting ducts are available if the outlet needs to be elswhere

 

[trev]

Are there any adjacent wall units? To me that would be a potential place and yes it can be done neatly with the flex out of sight. Another place would have been in the chrome chimney but below the vent level.
Another thought is (and I apologise to any competent kitchen fitters out there) I'll put a quid on the guy not being a qualified spark.
Eventually that flap is going to abrade the sheath on that flex and after a while longer will expose the cores opening up a possibility of a lethal shock. Lets hope has earthed it. Surely it is not too much trouble for the guy to come along and move the thing, or am I expecting too much again.
In my opinion if you want it venting outside that is precisely what you get since you're paying for it

 

[Darkwood]

Part of the reg regarding environmental effects having warm/hot grease laden air venting directly onto it means it isnt located suitably as well as the vent interfering with the flex been an issue too, ask where the cert is to the socket install, ive always had issues with sockets fitted within cooker hood cowels for this very reason the environment isnt suitable for a standard plug and socket, i always try run the flex onto unit top if possible if not possible due to design a flush blanking plate with flex inlet which is isolated from spur point above base units.

 

[PDT]

The installation was completed by a certified electrician that works for a national big brand, they supplied a certificate for this installation. Since these images I have had the socket moved and the extractor vented outside.

The installers are asking for payment for this work, I am refusing payment as I have had to pay out to have the work re-done as it caused the electrics to trip out due to the amount of moisture on the socket and plug, I also received a nasty electric shock when touching the metal casing on the extractor when it tripped out (didn't realise it was the extractor causing this at this point, otherwise I wouldn't have touched it)

Just need some impartial views as the installers are refuting that it was installed dangerously.

 

[i=p/u]

i wanted vent, i payed for vent.... i payed spark to come bust hole in wall and vnt outside and it cost me 200, so i want this off my kitchen , hows that sound, it is definatly as the guys have said , not suitable location

 

[GLENNSPARK]

Since when does someone put a plugtop in an inaccessable place? We had a kitchen fitter we first fixed for the other day moaning because we were chasing out for a cable to feed a hood. After explaining about how we use a FCU for safe isolation (in one of the cupboards) he calmed down. So gets to second fix it and he`s still wanting a plugtop and 1 gang front fixing..so i ask "is there a fixed panel going over the hood"? yep he says..."theres your answer" i says......chuffin unbelievable........

 

[Doomed]

Is there a grill in the side of the aluminium cover. If not get one with one. Then get a 'T' bit of ducting for the extract that will push the air out through the side grill.
Often comes supplied with re-circulation hoods.

 

[PDT]

Its now vented outside and the socket refitted to a more suitable position

 

[vernam616]

If its recirculating, theres no reason that flap should be open

But agree that the socket should be a little higher

Call his bluff and ask him whether he has commissioned it using the PART F guidelines and what l/s does it extract at, see what he comes up with

 

[PC Electrics]

How about this idea:

find out which competency scheme the electrician is registered with (you should already know this as you should have a pP compliance cert from them for the work)
Ring up their help line and ask for their opinion on the matter.
If (as I suspect they would) they agree with the above, make sure you take details of who & when you spoke to and use this information in your discussions over payment.

IMO you should not pay to have bad work corrected; it should have been done right in the first place.