Discuss Solutions for LED inrush current in the Lighting Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

This has quite a high current rating, but might do the job?
There may be other units around more suitable.
What a great ready-made device!

I have made similar things to keep transformer-input units from burning out relays: an NTC thermistor as inrush suppression and then a zero-crossing SSR to bypass it once established, so it cools for the next cycle...
 
Works like a charm!
All lights are connected & no more breaker trips.
Spoke too soon
Seems that after a number of switches the (10A garage) breaker trips.

Most times, when the lights switch on, the breaker makes a noise (but doesn’t trip). After enough of these, it goes.

I guess I could put a larger breaker. (At some point, probably replace garage CP and put a C-type breaker. )
 
Spoke too soon
Seems that after a number of switches the (10A garage) breaker trips.

Most times, when the lights switch on, the breaker makes a noise (but doesn’t trip). After enough of these, it goes.

I guess I could put a larger breaker. (At some point, probably replace garage CP and put a C-type breaker. )
Sorry to hear that 🙁
What's the cable size of the lighting circuit, and is it clipped direct, and are there any other accessories such as junction boxes (eg rated at 10A) on the circuit?
Since the surge device limits current to 16A, just wondering if a 16A type B might be a possible solution? Might have to upgrade the light switch to 20A - MK do one.
Could be scuppered by what the panel MI's say about protection?
 
Last edited:
Sorry to hear that 🙁
What's the cable size of the lighting circuit, and is it clipped direct, and are there any other accessories such as junction boxes (eg rated at 10A) on the circuit?
Since the surge device limits current to 16A, just wondering if a 16A type B might be a possible solution? Might have to upgrade the light switch to 20A - MK do one.
Could be scuppered by what the panel MI's say about protection?
Cable is all 1.5mm^2
Wago boxes are all 20A or 40A. Switches are motion sensing - rated nowhere near 20A.

I will try a 16A breaker to see if that resolves it - at least until I replace the CP.
Otherwise I will need to replace CP now, in order to use a C-type breaker. I was trying to avoid replacing CP right now because I’m sure I will need to make modifications when the inevitable car charging port needs to be installed.
 
Cable is all 1.5mm^2
Wago boxes are all 20A or 40A. Switches are motion sensing - rated nowhere near 20A.

I will try a 16A breaker to see if that resolves it - at least until I replace the CP.
Otherwise I will need to replace CP now, in order to use a C-type breaker. I was trying to avoid replacing CP right now because I’m sure I will need to make modifications when the inevitable car charging port needs to be installed.

You can't just swap in a C type MCB or even a higher rated one.
You need to confirm that it is safe to do this, including checking that the earth fault loop impedance is low enough to be safe with a different MCB.

If the switches are not suitably rated for these changes they may also need to be replaced.


I suspect that this line from your opening post:
I have installed 12 40W batten lights (cheap Amazon variety - don’t have specs)
Is at the root of your problems.
 
Sorry to hear that 🙁
What's the cable size of the lighting circuit, and is it clipped direct, and are there any other accessories such as junction boxes (eg rated at 10A) on the circuit?
Since the surge device limits current to 16A, just wondering if a 16A type B might be a possible solution? Might have to upgrade the light switch to 20A - MK do one.
Could be scuppered by what the panel MI's say about protection?
With 16A breaker, no more trips.
Will upgrade CP to use a smaller but slower breaker.
 

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