Twin florescent led tubes confusion

[MJPD29]

The led tubes that do not use the original ballast or capacitor are generally better in my opinion if you use them instead, just require l and n to either end of the tube from memory

 

[Marvo]

The LED retrofit T8 tubes we've used in the past have a solid link between the pins on one side and L+N connect to the pins on the other side.

If you replace the starter with a fuse and bypass the ballast then the wiring ends up such that the tube can be installed in either direction without going bang.

 

[Marvo]

You get a fuse which is the same form factor as the starter by the way....

Starter Fuse; Replace Fluorescent Tube Light for LED T8 Lamp Lightbulb | eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starter-Fuse-Replace-Fluorescent-Tube-Light-for-LED-T8-Lamp-Lightbulb-/331542963577

 

[fertom]

Yeah for now led tubes are really cheap. We don't have to bother about ballast in leds and you have nice place to apply some automation systems

 

[brianmoooore]

Just fitted a batch of 1500mm T8 LED tubes into existing fittings and new LED fittings.
The LED tubes have L and N to the two pins at one end of the tube. Pins at other end have NC.
When fitted into existing fittings, starter is replaced by LED 'starter', which is just a 1A fast blow fuse presumably to blow if someone ever refits a fluorescent tube.
The new fittings have nothing inside of them whatsoever, except the two lamp holders. L and N are wired directly to one lampholder, and the other one has no connections - just there to support the tube.

 

[Marvo]

Just fitted a batch of 1500mm T8 LED tubes into existing fittings and new LED fittings.
The LED tubes have L and N to the two pins at one end of the tube. Pins at other end have NC.
When fitted into existing fittings, starter is replaced by LED 'starter', which is just a 1A fast blow fuse presumably to blow if someone ever refits a fluorescent tube.
The new fittings have nothing inside of them whatsoever, except the two lamp holders. L and N are wired directly to one lampholder, and the other one has no connections - just there to support the tube.

The tubes you describe wire as per the diagram in post #22. As long as you fit the fuse where the starter originally was then the tube can be safely inserted either way around. If you remove the starter, don't fit the fuse and just wire the L+N to the lampholder on one side of the tube then there will be short circuit fault if anyone ever fits a tube the wrong way around.

 

[brianmoooore]

The dedicated LED fittings I fitted don't have anywhere to fit a 'starter', and aren't fitted with a ballast either.
L and N are to one end of the tube, so it has to be fitted the correct way around for the fitting to work. There has to be some kind of continuity between the pins at the other end for the same tube to work when retrofitted into old fittings, but it's not a simple shorting link. An ordinary test meter, on resistance range, gives a reading that starts at a couple of ohms and eventually reaches around 40 ohms before stabilizing.
If someone fitted a fluorescent tube to one of the dedicated fittings, it would place 230 volts across the heater at one end of the tube, which I assume would have a bright, but brief, existence.