Types of socket fronts

[radiohead]

If you are going for flush accessories make sure you specify your electrician installs 35mm deep boxes for all accessories. Many will try to save a bit of work by using 25mm boxes, it's then impossible to change standard accessories for flat plate, or for dimmer switches in the future, without a lot of grief.
I cant stress this enough, manys the time I've been asked to fit posh accessories or dimmers in a house after all the decorating's done only to find the lazy---- original installer has installed shallow boxes. I would also ask your electrician to install a neutral at each switch position, this will enable future smart switching devices and suchlike to be installed.

 

[Dustydazzler]

Metal is purely cosmetic and generally 5 or 6 times the price of white plastic...
I don’t like Fitting flat plate Unless the walls are perfectly flat plaster finish.
i would go for a raised low profile plate like Hamilton hartland

Hartland

<p><span>A popular collection with stylish slim front plates to complement today's interiors. Available in many elegant finishes with complementary switch insert finishes and visible fixings.</span></p>

www.hamilton-litestat.com

 

[JLeague]

Metal is purely cosmetic and generally 5 or 6 times the price of white plastic...
I don’t like Fitting flat plate Unless the walls are perfectly flat plaster finish.
i would go for a raised low profile plate like Hamilton hartland

Hartland

<p><span>A popular collection with stylish slim front plates to complement today's interiors. Available in many elegant finishes with complementary switch insert finishes and visible fixings.</span></p>

www.hamilton-litestat.com

They look perfect. I just noticed - well when you are shopping for switches that some do not have screws to attach?

It looks like I will try convince the wife that we go for these slightly raised ones - I have just checked the walls and you are right -its not perfectly flat.

Brilliant advice everyone - really appreciated.

 

[Dustydazzler]

They look perfect. I just noticed - well when you are shopping for switches that some do not have screws to attach?

It looks like I will try convince the wife that we go for these slightly raised ones - I have just checked the walls and you are right -its not perfectly flat.

Brilliant advice everyone - really appreciated.

they have a grid which screws to the normal backing box and the cover plate clips on. Screws or screw less is just a matter of choice

 

[JLeague]

to install a neutral at each switch position, this will enable future smart switching devices and suchlike to be installed.

Will this be a major additional cost? I have 13 light switches and I like the idea of future proofing the property as I intend to stay here for five years at least.

I have asked 3 electricians to quote for the job and once I have agreed on an electrician then I would then ask him to add this to his quote rather than ask the other two electricians to requote as well.

 

[telectrix]

Will this be a major additional cost? I have 13 light switches and I like the idea of future proofing the property as I intend to stay here for five years at least.

I have asked 3 electricians to quote for the job and once I have agreed on an electrician then I would then ask him to add this to his quote rather than ask the other two electricians to requote as well.

the cost to loop at the switches rather than at the lights ( so you have a N at the switch/es ) would not involve much extra cost. might use a bit more cable and mean slightly wider chases.

 

[JLeague]

the cost to loop at the switches rather than at the lights ( so you have a N at the switch/es ) would not involve much extra cost. might use a bit more cable and mean slightly wider chases.

Sorry to sound stupid but you have me confused. I just refer to switches as how I turn on/off lights and sockets where you plug items in.

So I should say I need neutral at the light switches and not where the light fitting is in the ceiling or I need neutral at both points?

 

[telectrix]

there are 2 basic ways of wiring lights.

1. loop at light fittings. then you have L, sw/L and N at the light but only L and sw/L at switch. this method was the most common from 1980 ish.

2.loop at switch/es. then you have L , N, and sw/L at switch, but only sw/L and N at light.. this method is becoming more common these days, with multiple downlights and/or smart switches that require a N at the switch.

i won't complicate things by explaing other methods using junction boxes that were used prior to the late 70's early 80's.there are other alternatives also.

 

[JLeague]

there are 2 basic ways of wiring lights.

1. loop at light fittings. then you have L, sw/L and N at the light but only L and sw/L at switch. this method was the most common from 1980 ish.

2.loop at switch/es. then you have L , N, and sw/L at switch, but only sw/L and N at light.. this method is becoming more common these days, with multiple downlights and/or smart switches that require a N at the switch.

i won't complicate things by explaing other methods using junction boxes that were used prior to the late 70's early 80's.there are other alternatives also.

Telectrix thankyou for the explanation which makes sense to me - really appreciated.

 

[telectrix]

Telectrix thankyou for the explanation which makes sense to me - really appreciated.

a propos of that, what i do now is whehter looping at lights or switches, I run a 3 core/E from switch to light, rather than just a T/E. that way, all bases are covered.