What kind of Electric Shower install is possible with my existing consumer unit?

[freddo]

Would you just use the spare way on the fuseboard to do this

Thanks
Jake

The spare way will be rated 30A max. If you want more than a 7.2KW shower you will need to check that the fuseway next to the main switch is rated for up to 45A use and move the circuit that is currently there. Or if it isn't, then you will need to install a separate switchfuse for the shower.

I would get a price on a new combi boiler to run your shower off of and a price for fitting an electric shower you might find it is far more economical in the long run to run off a combi and modernise your flat and get rid of the boiler tank and get more storage room. Just a thought.

If you have the money this is an excellent way to go.

 

[Vortigern]

ball park figure

£700-£1000 which is why I said compare the price for a combi

 

[littlespark]

Theres no problem adding an electric shower to your setup... but I would go for a separate board and RCD just for the shower. If it trips, it doesn't take out your entire house.

I would agree that the boards need upgraded, £1000 seems a bit steep, but I don't know what horrors are lurking behind the covers.

You are renting? Dont want to alarm you, have you seen an EICR (condition report) for the installation? Tenants don't normally, but you could say to your landlord that you're not happy with the old fuses and would like to see proof its all safe.

 

[Vortigern]

£1000 seems a bit steep

Just ball park. Looking at the RCCB I wonder if it might present problems and other thoughts hence a potentially higher price than normal as a guess. But I suppose as said by @littlespark separate RCD supply would make it cheaper as you can then just bypass the state of the existing wiring and hope it is ok for the client. Such a setup may well be ok, but then again a few tests might show up problems hence the reserve type price for those kind of problems.

 

[MJPD29]

Prices sound about right and his advice isnt far off either.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Forgive me if i am wrong but your E7 meter should supply all your leccie at night on rate 2 including the lights, ring main, shower, water heater etc!

you are wrong in this case.
there are two ways That E7 can be presented:
1. As you describe, everything comes off the same feed, but lower tariff at night time. Off peak devices like storage rads need separate timers.
2. as in this installation- there are two fuse boards. The off peak one only is energised at night time. Separate circuits run to storage rads, off-peak immersions, etc.
The 24-hour fuseboard does not benefit from a lower tariff at night.

 

[Zerax]

My two-penneth on this one is;

1. Ditch the E7 asap ! I have yet to find a situtation and tariff combination that makes any economic sense...
2. Have you considered an unvented direct cyclinder ? So you'll heat your water by immersion heater and get mains pressure for showers/washing up/wash basin. (Cylinder and kit is about £250 but you'll need pressure relief outlet and has to be installed by G3 plumber)
3. If you're set on an electric shower (I've tried a few over the years, and they're all awful) I'd say get the 9.5kW one... a smaller one in the summer would suffice when the cold water is not as icey cold as it is in the winter, when you're really notice the difference in flow.

 

[fearny26]

Hi guys thank you very much for all your replies

So am I right in saying that regarding installing the shower there are two possibilities?

One is to use the spare way on my existing fuseboard rated at 30a and I can have a 7.5kwh shower.

And the other is to install a separate shower consumer unit like this via a henley block

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/wylex-4-module-1-way-populated-shower-consumer-unit/3458j

and wire the shower from there.
I assume this means I can have a much more powerful shower even a 10.5kwh?
[automerge]1576603744[/automerge]

My two-penneth on this one is;

1. Ditch the E7 asap ! I have yet to find a situtation and tariff combination that makes any economic sense...
2. Have you considered an unvented direct cyclinder ? So you'll heat your water by immersion heater and get mains pressure for showers/washing up/wash basin. (Cylinder and kit is about £250 but you'll need pressure relief outlet and has to be installed by G3 plumber)
3. If you're set on an electric shower (I've tried a few over the years, and they're all awful) I'd say get the 9.5kW one... a smaller one in the summer would suffice when the cold water is not as icey cold as it is in the winter, when you're really notice the difference in flow.

I'm really on a bit of a budget atm so having the boiler ripped out and replaced is not an option for me right now but I will note this down for the future. For sure I have read the same as what you say about the showers so I'm keen to get a good one in if my setup supports it.

Can I ask you though about my economy 7 setup again please. Would I be right in saying that if I have my energy provider change my tariff and meter would both my fuseboards then just go live 24/7? As I assume right now its setup so that one of the boards only goes live during the off peak hours. I'm just hoping its possible to change from E7 without having to replace my entire consumer unit.

(My meter is a digital one at the moment that provides both the on and off peak rates however I am in the process of having a smart meter installed)

Thanks
Jake