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What the hell is this main fuse?

Discuss What the hell is this main fuse? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi All

On a job this morning doing an EICR. As you will see from photos main live conductor showing signs of burning out at termination. Checked tightness of termination and main switch all seemed fine. I thought I would check main fuse rating to see rating of this. Supply is tncs with 16mm live conductors and 10mm main earth. On checking main fuse I come across what you can see in photo. A hollow round tube in fuse link terminals. This surely isn't legit? The fuse was sealed so I assume it was supplier that put it in
 

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It was this one.
 
You need to find the main incomer to the building.

And be wary of pulling main fuses, this should be left to suitably trained and equipped persons.
 
No idea why you pulled that sealed link.
Judging by the photo of a burned conductor at the incoming switch I presume they were going to replace the cable & switch so needed it off?
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I guess curiosity resulted in them opening once out...

OK I should have read the text more carefully, no replacement just checked tightness. Doh!
 
Judging by the photo of a burned conductor at the incoming switch I presume they were going to replace the cable & switch so needed it off?
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I guess curiosity resulted in them opening once out...

OK I should have read the text more carefully, no replacement just checked tightness. Doh!
There is an isolator between the meter and cu.

So no need to pull the link.

Edit

Also - the tails look too thin to me - single layer of insulation?
 
I would suggest the main switch in the DB has been replaced following a burnout, but not by a competent person as the isolator is not of the correct manufacture and the damaged conductor has not been rectified. It would be interesting to see how the busbar is connected given that the L and N connections are on the wrong sides
Edit post crossed with pc1966 who is clearly thinking the same
 
It would be interesting to see how the busbar is connected given that the L and N connections are on the wrong sides
Well spotted, that also explains the neutral being nicked by the fixing screw post!
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Also - the tails look too thin to me - single layer of insulation?
Yes, another good point as no sign of a second sheath.
 
There is a special level of Fail here.
  1. Not only did they use a different brand of replacement switch, but they managed to chose MK which (I think) are one of the few CU makers that have the switch on the left.
  2. Then to compound it, instead of just swapping L & N designators on the switch they have fudged the neutral bar wire and busbar in some way to fit it in.
  3. And let us not forget the burned live cable that has sufficient slack lower down to at least have had the worst 2cm or so removed and stripped back.
A photo showing the busbar at the incomer switch would be interesting!
 
There is a special level of Fail here.
  1. Not only did they use a different brand of replacement switch, but they managed to chose MK which (I think) are one of the few CU makers that have the switch on the left.
  2. Then to compound it, instead of just swapping L & N designators on the switch they have fudged the neutral bar wire and busbar in some way to fit it in.
  3. And let us not forget the burned live cable that has sufficient slack lower down to at least have had the worst 2cm or so removed and stripped back.
A photo showing the busbar at the incomer switch would be interesting!
Unfortunately no pic of busbar PC. If upgraded tails to double insulated and swapped terminations over at main switch do you think this would bring installation upto satisfactory?
 
Unfortunately no pic of busbar PC. If upgraded tails to double insulated and swapped terminations over at main switch do you think this would bring installation upto satisfactory?
As freddo says you can get the correct switch fairly cheaply so best to replace it and fit new double insulated tails (assuming no butchery of the busbar to make the MK one fit). The 19-strand flexible ones make life a who lot easier!
 
On checking main fuse I come across what you can see in photo. A hollow round tube in fuse link terminals. This surely isn't legit? The fuse was sealed so I assume it was supplier that put it in

Red cutouts are disconnect links, not fuses.
They are also sealed and should not be removed by anyone other than a person authorised by the DNO or meter operator, the seal on that one has this clearly written on it!
 
One thing that surprised me was no isolator for shower hardwired in. What's your take on that?
My initial reaction is that is wrong, there ought to be an accessible means of isolation, but off-hand I don't know if that is actually required.

Any idea why? Was there an old wall or pull switch that had been bypassed to save upgrading it to match current rating, or simply none ever fitted at all?
 

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